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Do I need to replace cam chain adjuster ?


Mike92STX

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2012
Messages
214
City
Zion,Illinois
Vehicle Year
2004
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Tire Size
245-75-16
I have a rattle when it warms up.
04 FX4 with 246000 miles. I've owned it for a little over a year, it had 244000 miles on it when I bought it. I read that when the cam chain tensioner is going bad it causes a rattle sound. Well I have a video with sound but I can't figure out how to download it. Every time I click on attach files the video isn't showing where I just put it. I tried from my phone and tried downloading it to my PC . What am I doing wrong?
 
When you hear the rattle a chain guide is likely already broken, so damage is done
You can install 2 new motorcraft tensioners that "might help" and they should be changed every 100k in any case
Don't use 3rd party for these tensioner
Prime them before installing

The video with the sound won't help, you can look/listen to other videos of the 4.0l SOHC engines for a match, since you know better what it sounds like
Google: 4.0l sohc chain rattle videos
There are ALOT of them
 
That's what I was thinking. The guide on the front isn't to hard to change, I saw a YouTube video and it didn't look like much more than a older water pump but sometimes those videos can be deceiving.
Thanks again Ron D
 
With engine stone cold
You can remove fan belt from crank pulley
Then start engine, Battery light will stay on
It will be super quiet with no fan or accessory noise
You may be able to ID the source of a noise easier
You only have 1 minute or so with no water pump so be quick about it

But you can repeat this anytime engine is stone cold again
 
I watched a couple more of videos and mine isn't as loud as most of them. I ordered the tensioners from Amazon. They are both Ford parts. I will try what you said, taking off the fan belt and listening to it. It didn't make this much noise when I bought it so maybe I'll luck out and it's just the tensioners.
Thanks again
 
If you're going through the trouble of pulling the engine to do the tensioners why wouldn't you just do the entire job? Chain, guides etc?
 
If you're going through the trouble of pulling the engine to do the tensioners why wouldn't you just do the entire job? Chain, guides etc?

You can change the 2 long chain tensioners on the 4.0l SOHC with engine in vehicle, one is easy to change, passenger side rear, best to remove front tire and go thru wheel well, the other just requires taking off the throttle body, so not all that hard
 
Dirtman, I was talking about the ones that RonD mentioned. The truck has 246000 miles on it but seems to have been fairly well maintained except the last person that changed oil had the filter over tightened I had to get a new tool to remove it and it was leaking. If it still makes the noise after changing I'll have to pull the motor or have someone so it for me. I agree if it is apart may as well do it right.
 
Yea my mistake I thought the engine needed to be pulled to do any work with the rear timing chain, tensioner, or guides. Didn't know you could change the tensioner with the engine still in the truck.
 
Wow, you have all sort of good news 😃 I ordered the parts from Amazon and one is coming from Texas so the next day thing doesn't exist. I will let you know how it goes when I get it done.
 
...let you know how it goes when I get it done.
Good luck,
Details of my own adventure replacing the two OilPressurized TimingTensioners in a 2001 V6~4.0L~SOHC.
 
Can I bump the motor over and move the cam chain and get more room to screw in the left side tensioner? Cross threaded it and when I straightened the threads I don't want mess them up again.
 
Bumping the motor is probably not a good idea.
No real need to "pre-charge" the tensioner with oil before you install it; that just makes it more difficult.
After install, crank the engine with the gas pedal to the floor (disables ignition) & let the oil pump prime the tensioners before starting.
There are some "tricks" to getting that Left OilPressurized TimingTensioner in without stripping\crossing threads.
I ground down the length & butt diameter of a 22mm 12pt socket to improve clearance under the manifold with TStat sensors removed.
If that does work, then best to remove the manifold to make sure you are threading straight.
Careful, if you strip out those threads, replacing the head may be required!
 
Thanks for the information, I already primed the tensioner, we are going to try and straighten the threads this afternoon. I have the tstat housing out but haven't tried grinding down the socket. Might remove the manifold if we have to much trouble.
Thanks again
 

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