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do I have a bad distributor magnetic pickup?


Trashy Kid

Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2012
Messages
7
Vehicle Year
87
Transmission
Manual
87 2.3 ----- I have NO spark at all. I have replaced the coil, module, cap and rotor. the coil is getting good amount of voltage. If the wires were bad I would at least be seeing some spark right? I beginning to think the pickup is the final culprit here since I have replaced a good amount of the ignition system.

does anybody have any advice on checking/installing new pick-up magnet?

thanks, I am really trying to get this truck revived from the dead by summer, it needs a radiator and some body work besides the whole not running issue haha.

Also, I am thinking of putting f150 springs in this thing to raise it up because I plan to make this an off road truck.
 
To check the ignition coil put a spark plug in the cil wire and set it on a good ground then turn the ignition on and take a jumper wire from coil neg to engine ground quick touches the plug should fire every time you touch the jumper to ground. Does the distributor have three wires coming out if so one is ground and the other two are the reluctor coil there should be low resistance thru the two coil wires and no continuity between either wire and ground.
 
I checked the shaft to make sure the gear was not slipping. the shaft was hard to turn so I assume it is good or do you mean turn the engine over and see if it spins? the previous owner thought the timing belt was bad. So are you saying if the timing belt is bad the rotor will not be spinning? :icon_confused:

if the distributor shaft is in working condition, I will try the method you said kimcrwbr1
 
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.html
You have the TFI ignition you can test the coil the same but testing the hall effect sensor is a bit more involved read this through a few times and get to know how it works it tells you how to test the coil but start with the wires and connectors. You will need to pull the distributor apart to replace the pickup coil.
 
I will take a long look at that link, thank you.

rogue_wulff - you are saying that my timing belt is possibly not turning the distributor shaft? I will take a look

kimcrwbr1 - I checked the ignition coil (which is new) by attaching a grounded spark plug to the wire leading to the top of the distrib. cap. and cranking the engine, this lead to no plug spark. I will check your method tomorrow evening.

thanks guys:icon_thumby:
 
the previous owner thought the timing belt was bad. So are you saying if the timing belt is bad the rotor will not be spinning? :icon_confused:
The distributor is driven off the aux shaft, which is in turn driven by the timing belt. If the belt breaks or shears off teeth, the cam and/or aux shaft may not be turning, so there's no way the engine can run.

1 of the first steps in diagnosing a no-spark issue on a distributor-type ignition, is insuring the rotor actually turns. No turning rotor = no chance for spark to occur.

If the previous owner stated the belt was bad, that would be the first thing to check. Good news is, there's almost no chance of engine damage occurring from a timing belt failure, so it's usually a rather low cost fix.
 
First see if the timing belt is in one piece. If its not turning the shaft youre trying to paddle up river with a spoon by testing the distributor and replacing parts. Timing is impossible without the belt ;)
 
the timing belt is on and turns properly, yet i will look into the aux shaft problem. I will do this this afternoon and keep posted
 
NEVERMIND ABOUT THE TIMING BELT AND DISTRIB. ROTOR

the rotor does not spin when I crank the engine and it wont turn by hand.

the timing belt does not spin when the engine is cranked.

Im afraid this truck has more secrets than I thought........:bawling:
 
Replace the belt, and a new tensioner wouldn't be a bad idea. Shouldn't take more than a couple hours, and about $35-40. Chances of any engine damage are very minimal. It *can* happen, but surely you aren't that unlucky......
 
got a new belt tonight, will put on tomorrow

oh and rogue_Wulff - I am so unlucky, I ordered a pro comp level kit for my 95 f150. after confirming the kit included the additional shocks for my dual shock front end with the customer service man, I recieved the parts in the mail. took the original equipment off to realize they did not send the additional shocks. there were 4 shock boxes, i opened two and they were front before disassembly. then realized the other two were rears. :pissedoff:
 
Make sure you check the tensioner, if it is bad in any way change it too.
 

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