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Distributor problem!?


gungfudan

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
475
City
Mississippi
Vehicle Year
1994
Engine
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
N/A
Total Drop
N/A
So the teeth on distributor gear stripped. I got a new one and it won't fit in the hole so I got another one the same thing it won't fit. Has anybody else ha this problem before?
 
The first time I tried to remove/replace the distributor I had one heck of a time getting it back in...it is not as simple as it looks...what you need to know is that the gear on the shaft meshes with the gear on the drive and in doing so it actually spins the distributor when it finally meshes properly...

Trying to drop the distributor in so that the rotor points directly at the #1 plug was my biggest mistake...and quite common...what you need to do is set the rotor about 15 to 20 degrees back (think clockwise because the rotor will spin counter clockwise when it meshes) from the #1 plug position and then drop the distributor in the hole..as it settles due to the gears meshing you will see the rotor turn about the same amount and end up about where you want it to be...usually...may take a few tries to get it where you want it...

The key here is to set the timing up just as you would when putting on the belt so that everything is in place before you drop in the distributor...otherwise you are in for quite a bit of messing with it.

The above information only applies if it is the right distributor and there is nothing actually wrong with the gear on the distributor drive...you can check that by having someone crank the engine over by hand and peering down the hole...you should see the edge or the gear and all the teeth should be present and spinning freely...if not, that may be why your teeth were stripped off...

This actually happened to me once although it was not stripped teeth but there is a pin holding the gear in place and that pin happened to sheer off...meaning my engine would crank, gas would enter and because it was not burning it was forced down into the exhaust...the result was one heck of an explosion that took out my first brand new muffler for the truck...hope that wasn't the case with you because I think my ears are still ringing.

Hope that helped Dan~!
 
Make sure the gear has 18 teeth, and listen to Mark88.

I've had three of those gears strip off on me. The reason for them doing so was either a lack of oil (sometimes I got low and just didn't check. It happens.) or because the distributor gear rubbed the bottom part of the hole that it sat in.

Make sure that you can wiggle the distributor rotor a bit when it's fully seated and tightened down. If not, then there's too much of a bind, and it could be caused by the gear rubbing the engine block. If that's the case, shim your distributor .020-.030" and re-time it.
 
Thank you guys!!!!!
 
Remember the shorting plug when timing it, too.
 
Remember the shorting plug when timing it, too.

I think that applies to later versions of the engine...on the 2.0 we just usually have to remove the vacuum line from the distributor to set base timing and then adjust it somewhat using the dizzy rotation.

The 2.0 and my 2.3 using the 2.0 wiring configuration are probably the easiest to set the timing on...at least, that is, without dealing with possible electronic sensors that set it automatically and may be problematic at some point...that's why I like this configuration more than anything...I really hate dealing with electronic components that can mess things up when they fail...:icon_thumby:
 
The 2.0L doesn't have a TFI module?
 
Nope...the advance is done via vacuum and stator...old school but it actually works pretty good...

I think they incorporated the TFI only on the FI versions...2.0 were all carbed and don't have a computer so to speak.

Even the mess of wires on the passenger side that are used to control the idle (Idle Control Module) can be removed without too much fuss so the engines run off the distributor and carb and coil only...very basic and relatively easy to troubleshoot...the ignition control module (two wire) is the only boogie man under the hood...only had to replace one and even that was a "throw parts at it till you find out your timing belt broke" situation. :)
 
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Make sure the gear has 18 teeth, and listen to Mark88.

I've had three of those gears strip off on me. The reason for them doing so was either a lack of oil (sometimes I got low and just didn't check. It happens.) or because the distributor gear rubbed the bottom part of the hole that it sat in.

Make sure that you can wiggle the distributor rotor a bit when it's fully seated and tightened down. If not, then there's too much of a bind, and it could be caused by the gear rubbing the engine block. If that's the case, shim your distributor .020-.030" and re-time it.

Now when you shimmed your distributor did you have to make a gasket to go between the block and he distributor?
 
Yep. I made one out of the thick compressed cardboard that you find on cereal boxes with a little bit of sealant on it, too.
 
Ok. I was thinking about using that gasket material that comes in a roll. Because I have some.
 
I can wiggle the rotor so should I put a shim in it?
 
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Need help ASAP
 
Need help ASAP!!!!!!
 
Give us time, man. I'm sorry to have not seen this until now.


If you have the distributor placed in the block and tightened down to where it won't move, but the rotor can be wiggled a small bit in either direction, then it's fine.

Anything else to help you?
 

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