Different types of thermostat (160,180,195 degree) Which do I need?

[Jw1984]

I'm trying to replace the thermostat on my 93 Ranger and have been browsing parts online. I'm glad to see that a thermostat is quite cheap, but I'm not sure what type I need.

I see the option for a

205 Degree Reverse Poppet
195º Superstat
180º Superstat
160º Superstat

What are the differences and which would I need for my 93 v-6?

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

Use the 195*, that's what the stock one is.
There is no point to change the engine temp from what the manufactures engineered it to be.
In my truck i use a 195* stat, even have a 3core radiator and have awesome heat, and my engine temp perfectly fluctuates from 185* to 195*.

Now if you were running a small block with a lot of timing and on nitrous, then you could use a cooler one.

 

[McCormack]

Use the 180*... your engine will run better, ping less, have more power, and last longer.

 

[jhammel85]

Use the 195*, that's what the stock one is.
There is no point to change the engine temp from what the manufactures engineered it to be.
In my truck i use a 195* stat, even have a 3core radiator and have awesome heat, and my engine temp perfectly fluctuates from 185* to 195*.

Now if you were running a small block with a lot of timing and on nitrous, then you could use a cooler one.

^+1...I just did my Thermostat for that reason. The previous owner had a 180 and I got crap mileage. Now @ 195 its way better and plus...its how it came from the factory.

You could do a 180 and free up a few horses (that you wont "feel") but you'll lose economy. My advice is to just do a 195 and forget about it.

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

the engine was designed to run at 195* so unless youve got lots of mods for a 3.0l that you arent sharing with the rest of the world just stick a 195* back in there.

 

[rockwerks]

Use the 180*... your engine will run better, ping less, have more power, and last longer.

not true. the motor is designed to run at 195*, a 180 stat will not let the motor warm up as needed and could cause it to run rich most of the time. poor economy etc

 

[Bob Ayers]

not true. the motor is designed to run at 195*, a 180 stat will not let the motor warm up as needed and could cause it to run rich most of the time. poor economy etc

+1 You will also have less contaminants in the oil with the 195.

There have been post about going to 180 for pinging. Very dumb, the route cause of the pinging needs to be fixed, not covering the problem up with the
180.

 

[McCormack]

Actually it is indeed power that you can "feel", and my mileage went up and the engine ran better when I changed over to a 180*, so it obviously isn't running rich.

My truck got the same sort of numbers when run through emissions testing with both a 180* and a 195*, so obviously the exhaust isn't any dirtier and isn't contaminating the oil with a 180*. And a hotter engine will actually have more contaminants in it's oil because the oil film on the cylinder walls will be thinner, which will cause more blow-by to get by the piston rings and go into into the crankcase.

It's not rocket science, and the reason that 3.0's ping is because the combustion chambers get too hot, and the two easiest ways to combat that is to either retard the timing, or else cool the engine down by running a cooler thermostat. It would be silly to rule out a 180*as an option to reduce pinging.

A cooler running engine is easier on seals, gaskets, and hoses, and a cooler running engine has less of a chance of the oil film breaking down allowing for metal-to-metal contact, and thus a cooler engine will probably last longer.

 

[rockwerks]

Actually it is indeed power that you can "feel", and my mileage went up and the engine ran better when I changed over to a 180*, so it obviously isn't running rich.

My truck got the same numbers at the DMV pollution check station with both a 180* and a 195*, so obviously the exhaust isn't any dirtier and isn't contaminating the oil with a 180*. And a hotter engine will actually have more contaminants in it's oil because the oil film on the cylinder walls will be thinner, which will cause more blow-by to get by the piston rings and go into into the crankcase.

It's not rocket science, and the reason that 3.0's ping is because the combustion chambers get too hot, and the two easiest ways to combat that is to either retard the timing, or else cool the engine down by running a cooler thermostat. It would be silly to rule out a 180*as an option to reduce pinging.

A cooler running engine is easier on seals, gaskets, and hoses, and a cooler running engine has less of a chance of the oil film breaking down allowing for metal-to-metal contact, and thus a cooler engine will probably last longer.

I tell you what, you find any artilce written by an ASE certified mechanic or mechanical engineer and I will go along with you. Good Luck

 

[Bob Ayers]

I tell you what, you find any artilce written by an ASE certified mechanic or mechanical engineer and I will go along with you. Good Luck

+1 This guy is really out in left field somewhere!!!


I guess he never thought of things expanding when they get to the "design" temp!

 

[rockwerks]

+1 This guy is really out in left field somewhere!!!


I guess he never thought of things expanding when they get to the "design" temp!

He is not alone there are thousands of jeep guys too that believe that same thing. They believe what one guy told them and it became gospel from that day forward.

 

[Bob Ayers]

He is not alone there are thousands of jeep guys too that believe that same thing. They believe what one guy told them and it became gospel from that day forward.

His post in the e-fan thread was just as intelligent!!

 

[rockwerks]

His post in the e-fan thread was just as intelligent!!

I did e fan setup write up on NAXJA testing the big efan myth. removing the mechanical driven fan and installing 2 fans and then 3 fans and 180 stat etc......after weeks of testing and hundreds of dollars all to prove that jeep engineers actually did have it right. ended up putting a tranny cooler in the engine compartment and one of the fans ontop of it. Now that did help!

 

[triumphrider-1]

I did e fan setup write up on NAXJA testing the big efan myth. removing the mechanical driven fan and installing 2 fans and then 3 fans and 180 stat etc......after weeks of testing and hundreds of dollars all to prove that jeep engineers actually did have it right. ended up putting a tranny cooler in the engine compartment and one of the fans ontop of it. Now that did help!

You did what now? I can't picture what you typed.

 

[rockwerks]

You did what now? I can't picture what you typed.

dumbed down: electric fans setups do little for your performance only empty your wallet. but adding a trans cooler is a good idea