different high idle problem than every one else. need help

[xentris02]

my ranger runs normal for most part. start truck, idles high till it warms up then lowers to normal idle. but i drive allot. my high idle problem happens at least 5 times a week. the problem mainly starts when im on the high way and it sounds normal till i have to come to a stop i press the brakes and the motor is still putting out some power cuz its idleing a little higher that normal. i release the brake and it pushes off a little harder than a normal idle thus again idleing a little higher that normal. but the main problem is when u throw it into park then it shoots up to an extreemly high iddle now i would tell you the rpm's but i dont have an rpm gauge but my guess is 3000 to 4000 min . now you would think that a check engine light would come on but the only time it comes on is when im on the highway and it only comes on for a min or 2 it turns off so i can never get a codes off of it.
any ideas?

 

[sledneck07]

almost sounds like a vacuume leak. try hooking up a vac. gauge up to it and c what happens or grab a can of carb cleaner and spray a lil around your intake gasket and vac. lines and if it revs up you got a leak and if not you dont have a leak. dont spray too much though dont want to have her over rev.

 

[gregharr55]

my ranger runs normal for most part. start truck, idles high till it warms up then lowers to normal idle. but i drive allot. my high idle problem happens at least 5 times a week. the problem mainly starts when im on the high way and it sounds normal till i have to come to a stop i press the brakes and the motor is still putting out some power cuz its idleing a little higher that normal. i release the brake and it pushes off a little harder than a normal idle thus again idleing a little higher that normal. but the main problem is when u throw it into park then it shoots up to an extreemly high iddle now i would tell you the rpm's but i dont have an rpm gauge but my guess is 3000 to 4000 min . now you would think that a check engine light would come on but the only time it comes on is when im on the highway and it only comes on for a min or 2 it turns off so i can never get a codes off of it.
any ideas?

Put the truck in park, raise the hood and tap on the idle air controller. I bet it will idle down after tapping on it. Guess, what , u probably need a new IAC>

Hope this helps
Greg Harrison

 

[sledneck07]

if its the IAC you can take it off then pull it apart (two phillips head screws) and clean it with carb cleaner tell all the carbon is gone. then put it back together and on. i usally do that right away when i get a new/used truck

 

[Nhaz]

Its a solenoid applying 12 volts to the leads whiles its unplugged. if it clicks back and forth. it works.

 

[xentris02]

thanks all of you i will have to try those once it dose it again it has oddly dissiapeared for the last week mabey cause i havent been driving it as much as usual or at least as long. i just hope it dosent happen once i get home at mid night like usual lol

ill post back

 

[dock83]

I find combustion cleaner works better than carb cleaner for the carbon issue.I will cut the hair off a monkeys a**. IAC sounds right but vacuume cna be tricky too. Good luck.

 

[xentris02]

it finaly messed up for the first time in a few weeks. i checked it by unpluging the iac and it went to normal idle speed. i pluged it in a few more times and unpluged it and did same thing every time. but after i pluged the iac back up for the 4th time. i relized that the wire from the harness goes two ways, left and right, on the right iac and the left tps so with it idleing high i unpluged the tps and it went to normal then i plugged it back in and nothing! it stayed normal. so to me it sounds more like the tps. what you think?

 

[dock83]

When it high idles have you trided putting your toe behind the gas paddle and pulling back on it? Stickey cable may be try this before you get a TPS. Also make sure your flooring is not interfering with the paddle.

 

[xentris02]

yeah i tried it it actualy and there is slack in the cable to the pedal. basicaly i push pedal 1/4 inch then it catches on the cable but its always done that.

 

[dock83]

Tps adjustment

Got this from creepinjeepester on this site worth a look

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

The throttle position sensor is mounted on the end of the throttle body and tells the computer how far open or closed the throttle is. The TPS is pretty easy to understand how it work�s, it is a potentiometer just like your dimmer switch in the dash. Voltage is fed to the TPS by the signal return circuit. As the throttle is opened the TPS directs more voltage to the EEC and less down the voltage reference circuit. All of the following items will affect the TPS:

•Throttle Cable
•Throttle Body Cleanliness
•Vacuum leaks
•Air Filter
•Air Filter to Throttle Body Duct
•Engines general condition
•Harness and wire general condition

The TPS sensor has a great deal of influence on the fuel ratios and timing curves, because the TPS is a user interface sensor. The TPS is the closest thing you have to a phone call into EEC. EEC listens to your every command from the TPS. There is a TPS ratchet algorithm which continuously seeks the minimum throttle angle corresponding to a CLOSED THROTTLE position. This alleviates the necessity to set the throttle position sensor at an absolute position and compensates for system changes and differences between vehicles.

•Closed Throttle can be anywhere between 0.6-1.0 volts
•Part Throttle is triggered @ 0.04 volts above Closed Throttle
•Full Throttle is triggered @ 2.71 volts above Closed Throttle



Before testing the TPS or any other EFI component perform a self-test, trouble codes received during test can be used as a diagnostic tool along with other indicators. To test the TPS sensor you will need a volt meter. You need to back probe the harness while reading the voltage between the TPS and SIG RTN pins. The exact voltage you get at any one point is not of major concern; instead you need to watch for a smooth increase in voltage as the throttle is moved. A TPS that does not give a steady increase in voltage as the throttle is moved is faulty and needs to be replaced. Also check for mechanical problems associated with the throttle. Throttle linkage and cable can bind up, keeping the throttle from opening correctly. Some times the idle stop screw has been adjusted, this adjusts the base idle and moves where the TPS closed voltage. The TPS should not need adjustment, but once the idle screw has been tampered with, the TPS should be adjusted to match. If the idle is low and the TPS is high lots of problems will appear. If you need to grossly modify the TPS mounting holes to adjust Closed Throttle between 0.6-1.0 volts, you should recheck the idle stop screw first.



Throttle Position Sensor
Rotational Angle Signal Voltage
0 Under Travel 0.000
10 0.450
13 Closed Throttle 0.901
20 - 1.440
30 1.900
40 2.370
50 2.840
60 3.310
70 3.780
80 4.240
84 Full Throttle 4.538
90 Over Travel 4.538
100 5.00
Values were calculated for VREF = 5.0 volts.
These values may vary 3 percent due to sensor
and VREF variations.

Aditional INFO: These are other things that can be found about Ford Fuel Injection........
EEC Computers
Strategies
Sensors
Actuators
Engine Load
Begining an EFI Swap
Magazine Articles
EFI Performance
EFI Tools
How to Solder
Wire Harnesses
Wire Gauge guide
How to run a Self-Test
2 Digit Self-Test Codes
3 Digit Self-Test Codes
EEC Program Codes
EEC Vehicle Locations
Tech Articles
Abbreviations
Reference Books

At this site listed below.....
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=1

 

[xentris02]

man! this is just never a simple job!lol i did the pedal trick you told me and it didnt quit even messed with the cable a bit. ill have too look into everything you just posted and check all of that ill post back and thanks

 

[Jspafford]

Should still have stored codes even if the Check Engine light is off.

Pull the codes!

 

[xentris02]

well i messed with it a little more and as soon as i un plug the tps it stopped again so as soon as it gets a little warmer ill clean the iac and the throttle body and the hose and ill replace the filter.if it continues ill then replace the tps then the iac. but and ill replace it with junk yard parts(to test and make sure for cheep) first before i go and pay for a new tps and iac for sure. and ill go and try to check for a code in the next 20 min i have to buy a battery for the thing first.