Did my oil pump fail? (New to rangers) Please Help!

[HerbalistF150]

I have a 1997 2WD Ranger regular cab long bed- It has a 3.0 v6 in it-

I was driving the other day on the highway going about 65 and all of a sudden it got what sounded to be a rod knock, except it didn't make the engine run rough, the only thing that happened aside from the noise was a complete loss of oil pressure-

I pulled over and after sitting for a few hours finally got it towed home- I didnt want to drive it because i was under the impression the oil pump blew and that driving it, although probly possible, would nuke the motor-

I worked at a polaris dealership for 2 years tearing down quads and wave runners & am pretty confident mechanically- (but have never really worked on a ranger, only datsuns haha)

So i was wondering if anyone could take a sec and tell me what you think my problem is? I was thinking it was like the input shaft for the oil pump? is this a common problem and how hard is it to fix?
I'm not sure if replacing an oil pump on this thing is like an old chevy where you can lift the block up off the crossmember, drop the pan and bolt a new one in is it?

Any information would really help me out- It's my only form of transportation so if i gotta get into the motor of this thing i wanna do it soon!
THank you

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

assuming it is your oil pressure and its not just the sensor crapping out on you, then yes it is pretty much like an old chevy. the oil pan on the 3.0l is pretty hard to pull with out pulling the trans first. i just read a thread on that very subject in this forum. i think i would first verify with a mechanical gauge that you have no oil pressure before you start tearing out the motor. it could be something as simple as the electrical sensor that sends signal to your oil gauge.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

you could very well have been the victim of another camshaft syncronizer failure.

on the passenger side of the engine, near the firewall is a camshaft position sensor. it rides atop a syncronizer shaft...which looks like the bottom half of a distributor. this shaft engages the camshaft just like a distributor and drives the oil pump via the oil pump drive shaft. the syncro shaft has a problem where the bushing it rides on fails, causing the gear that engages the camshaft to break off...thus the oil pump is no longer driven by the camshaft.

your first step should be to pull the camshaft position sensor (its round, black, and has two small 5mm-or-so bolts holding it down). then turn the motor over and see if the syncro shaft is turning. if it isnt...thats your problem.

 

[betomonroy]

Don't forget to check that oil filter. Sometimes the oil filters colapse inside blocking the oil flow.
Remember the FRAM curse.

 

[HerbalistF150]

Thanks u guys very much for the input-

assuming it is your oil pressure and its not just the sensor crapping out on you, then yes it is pretty much like an old chevy. the oil pan on the 3.0l is pretty hard to pull with out pulling the trans first. i just read a thread on that very subject in this forum. i think i would first verify with a mechanical gauge that you have no oil pressure before you start tearing out the motor. it could be something as simple as the electrical sensor that sends signal to your oil gauge.

If the electrical senor for the oil pressure gauge failed, then what is up with the loud knocking sound that started up?

you could very well have been the victim of another camshaft syncronizer failure.

on the passenger side of the engine, near the firewall is a camshaft position sensor. it rides atop a syncronizer shaft...which looks like the bottom half of a distributor. this shaft engages the camshaft just like a distributor and drives the oil pump via the oil pump drive shaft. the syncro shaft has a problem where the bushing it rides on fails, causing the gear that engages the camshaft to break off...thus the oil pump is no longer driven by the camshaft.

your first step should be to pull the camshaft position sensor (its round, black, and has two small 5mm-or-so bolts holding it down). then turn the motor over and see if the syncro shaft is turning. if it isnt...thats your problem.

K- from what I've read by browsing the forum for a lil while, this is what it sounds like happened- I plan to pull that cam sensor sometime this week and check like you said to see if it spins while the motor is cranking-
If it doesn't, does that mean replacing this shaft? and If this is the case what is the process of replacing it?

(Thanks all for the input)

Don't forget to check that oil filter. Sometimes the oil filters colapse inside blocking the oil flow.
Remember the FRAM curse.

It's got a K&N oil filter in it now, with 2 thousand 8 hundred something miles on it since I changed the oil last (Castrol gtx)
But checking it wouldnt be a bad idea, I had a K&N oil filter clog a small oil passage on my 2006 Yamaha YZ450f dirtbike one time, the red fibers built up in a 90 corner in the oil passage starving the wet clutch setup of oil- It hella suprised me, almost toasted the clutch discs (They only took another month er two till they were dun4 after that ordeal)

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

if the top of the syncro shaft isnt spinning with the motor then you should replace the shaft (and likely your cam position sensor, as they are usually damaged in this type of failure)...then pray your rod bearings have survived the ordeal.

to replace the syncro shaft requires a special alignment tool. they can usually be had off of ebay for fairly cheap. the syncro shaft comes out just like a distributor.

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

dorman makes a synchronizer (part #689-104) that comes with the tool for around $60. you can get this part at any auto store who deals with Dorman.

 

[HerbalistF150]

Allright sweet- Thank you guys very much for the information, It really helps me out- I am going to pull that sensor this week and see if that shaft has broken- I will get back on here and let you know how it goes-
Thanks again!
-Bruce

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

FYI, ive heard bad things about dormans syncronizers (like that they fail within 30K). id stick with motorcraft for the syncro.

 

[04 EDGE]

FYI, ive heard bad things about dormans syncronizers (like that they fail within 30K). id stick with motorcraft for the syncro.

never had any problems with them, i have put quite a few of them in at work.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=53152&st=75

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?t=222238

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2143728

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showpost.php?p=153005&postcount=10

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showpost.php?p=354033&postcount=35

thats enough bad press to keep me away...especially when an OEM part can be had for only a little more scratch and you KNOW it will last another 100K.

of coarse its up to you...