Howto install
While the RTV dries up I'll give you a quick write up... Sorry no pics. Like I said I have trouble bothering with a camera while working on a rig.
How to install the detroit true track helical gear limited slip in a newer ranger:
Step one: Get your shit together.
3/4" socket, 1/2" socket, 5/16 socket and box wrench, flathead driver, block of wood, chimichanga, jack, two jack stands, tire iron, beer, torque wrench, big ****ing hammer, socket wrench, prybar, vise and vee block, bearing driver, punch, another beer, brain, and a burrito.
Step two: get your shit together again: gloves, safety glasses, other stuff I am probably forgetting after the fact. like a drain pan and parts..
Like rtv, brake cleaner, 1,000 rags, some cardboard and sawdust, a naughty movie, and some new bearings.
Step three: loosen rear lugs, put the rear axle on the jack stands.
good job, crack a beer and have a burrito. Eat half and drink half, then drain the old fluid by removing all the bolts in the cover but the top three. Loosen those and gently pry the sucker back... now would be a good time to go look for that drain pan while it pisses all over the floor.
Go have a smoke.. if you don't smoke, you should start, it's fun.
Now eat that damn burrito, it's not going to eat itself.
Step four: OPTIONAL: pull the 5/16 bolt out and slide the pin out of the way to make it easier to remove the axles.
skipping it? o.k... remove the drums, and push the axles in one at a time. The C clips aren't so bad, rather than pulling them with pliers i just pushed them off with my fingers. set those aside...
Now get another beer, you have to be thirsty.
Step 5: slide the axles out enough to clear the diff carrier. Then loosen the bearing caps with your 3/4" socket, and a goddamn hammer.
once loose, remove them all the way.
Get that wood block and prybar out and put the block on the bottom of the casing. Pry that old junk out of there using the block as leverage and protection like a blackjack dealers union or something.
Step 6: clamp this guy directly in the vice with something to prevent scratching... if you aren't trashing it. (wanna buy my old open diff? its not scratched...much and its only got 22k on it!) back out the ring gear bolts about 1/2 way... using the hammer and 3/4 again.
if you have an impact wrench you are already smarter than me and you don't need to read this... go back to harvard you snotty bastard.
Get a dead blow hammer, or your wood block and big ****in hammer and walk that ring off... beware of messing up your ABS speed sensor ring if equipped.
you can alternately smack the heads of the bolts in an alternating pattern with a real hammer if you like, I did a combination of this and using a deadblow.
Next you can remove the abs sensor ring, use a deadblow, verrry light taps and take your time walking it off, it's flimsy.
Step I lost count: get the new differential out of the box and stare at it a while... drool a bit and look sadly at your wallet.
Now install the abs sensor very gently once again walking it on with a real steel hammer, be gentle and just flush it to the outer edge of the new diff.
Then place the ring gear on, and figure out how the hell to get it on... I walked mine on with the bolts by an alternating pattern and used the deadblow hammer a bit when needed.
to torque it you'll need your big ass vice and the vee block mentioned above... try not to clamp it on the bearing mounting surface.
Tighten these guys to 77 lbs
(locktight is a good idea too.)
STRETCHHHH..
Now smash those bearings in.. I got a shitty set of bearing drivers from harbor freight, these bearings need to be SEATED, not sit flush with the lip. Find a proper tool to seat them... I had to walk mine the rest of the way on with a punch... no bueno senor. ...
Reminds me.. once those are on, help yourself to a chimi.
Are we only on beer 3? Open another, you really aren't very good at this.
Step the next one:
clean everything up. compressed air is best, try not to use that brake cleaner yet unless you actually did use wood... silly rabbit.
once assembled, place the drivers side spacer back in, then ram that bastard in... or rather, gently place it back in, making sure to install the outer bearing races before you do... The other spacer should not be on the pass side yet.
Finger tighten the bearing cap on the drivers side. (If I didnt mention not to mix these up before... well thats why you read an entire howto before you start.)
Pry gently and install the passenger side spacer. I used a flathead and some finesse... you can use a dinglewhopper tool they sell for $30.
Now install the passenger side cap finger tight.
Torque these bastards to 83 foot pounds. I went 55 then 70 then 85, try not to go nuts all at once.
Step ahhh ****it: Now reinstall the axles and place the clip in, push the axles outward, drop in the provided axle spacer, then fight that stupid retainer in there... I had to tap around it with a hammer and punch a bit, just wouldnt go in straight.
Install the circlip retainer ring, then rotate it to be sure its seated...
Step step trip: clean the mounting surfaces (well... shoulda cleaned it with the diff out, like I did.) and rtv them... install bolts finger tight, allow RTV to dry,... Then go do what I am about to do...
Turn them 1/2 turn more, or until they say uncle, then refill with 90weight, and go for a test drive.
The test drive assumes you are sober after all that beer. That is why procrastination is so very important to quality automotive work....
I'll let you guys know how it works after I hit something slippery.
Thanks for the help and for reading.
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