Detroit Locker Problem

[PlumCrazy]

I just put a Genuine Gear Quick Lock (same as Detroit) in my Exploder 8.8. It seemed to disengage and engage very harshly. I figured it was because it was brand new and behind a manual tranny. But this morning when I pulled it out of the garage and gave it a little gas it didnt move. It acts like both sides are ratcheting at the same time, it was jerk forward a little and then stop almost like it has a stripped ring and pinion. I pulled the cover and the everything looks perfect, no damage to gears, locker looks new still, fluid was clean and free of shavings.

I hacked the rear tires off the ground and when i turn the driveshaft by hand it rolls smooth and both tires spin even if someone holds one wheel. If I turn one wheel by hand it ratchets one side like it should.

I wish I had someone look under the truck at the drive shaft while it was acting up to see if it was even turning that way I could rule out the problem being in the tcase. i did remove the rear shaft and drive it in front wheel drive and it acts fine, but the output shaft could be damaged after the chain in the tcase. I put the truck in gear and tried to turn the rear shaft flange with a breaker bar and it doesnt budge so Im assuming the tcase is fine.

Since no teeth are missing on the r&p and the pinion is not sloppy and there is no excessive backlash I am assuming the problem is in the locker somewhere.

The only thing that I can think of is the cross shaft. It has two flat spots on either side of ot where the little spider gears run, and I wonder if those reliefs are allowing the locker disengage both sides at once because the pin doesnt spread them enough under load. I havnt heard of anyone having to change the cross pin before though.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I have a Torsen L/S unit from Level II that I will run if I cant get this locker straightened out, but Id rather have a full locker and not have to run full synthetic and 20 bucks quart and I dont want to set up the r&p again.

I am going to put the spider gears back in when I get home to see if that clears up the issue. If it does I know its not my tcase and its just something simple.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Is it possible for the thrust washers between the side gears and the carrier are too thin?

 

[Hahnsb2]

FWIW I've heard almost nothing but problems about the quick-locs and the detroit lunchbox lockers...

 

[PlumCrazy]

FWIW I've heard almost nothing but problems about the quick-locs and the detroit lunchbox lockers...

I think Im going to put in my Torsen Lok that I picked up a while back.

 

[-Nathan-]

yeah I too have heard nothing but bad things about them. Youre probably better off with the torsen for now.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Im just not too excited about setting up the gears again.

 

[-Nathan-]

yeah I hear ya...I hate doing things multiple times.

 

[Hahnsb2]

At least the pinion depth doesn't have to be changed.

 

[DieselTech07]

dont know about the detrot but if it is similar to a lockrite you have to use a new crosspin that is not notched, you also have to have the correct gap between the drivers? on either side of the crosspin

 

[Hahnsb2]

dont know about the detrot but if it is similar to a lockrite you have to use a new crosspin that is not notched, you also have to have the correct gap between the drivers? on either side of the crosspin

He's not talking about a notched cross-spin , he talking about the small flats on some cross-pins.
Like this

IIRC my D35 Cross-pin has those flats and no problems.

 

[PlumCrazy]

He's not talking about a notched cross-spin , he talking about the small flats on some cross-pins.
Like this

IIRC my D35 Cross-pin has those flats and no problems.

That pin has the flat spots I am referring too. I think DeiselTech07 understands where I am coming from. The directions I got with the locker didnt mention anything about measuring the gap, but that seems to be the issue. No one else that has the same locker as me has had to use a new cross pin though.