Destroyed Camshaft Position Sensor & Syncronizer

[Pistlpete44]

There's no need to start it. You just need to verify the shaft is spinning with the engine. Have someone bump the key while looking at it.

If the shaft spins (and it probably will), the oil pump is being driven.

OK, I got the cap off (ended up breaking it off as it would not come off). I had my son bump it while I watched and the shaft does NOT spin. My next step is to remove the synchronizer and inspect it. Just picking the kids up from school and then I'll get back on it. Thanks everyone!

 

[Pistlpete44]

Got the synchronizer out and it's not looking good. I think my next step is to drain the oil and get the filings out of there and put in a new synchronizer and sensor. I purchased the Dorman 689-117 as it was so much cheaper that the Motorcraft one and I don't want to put too much money into this truck if the engine is already shot.

 

[pjtoledo]

that wear took a while to happen. you may rest assured there are metal shavings/powder evenly distributed throughout the engine.
an oil change, or 2, is in order then run it.
put a drill down the hole to prime the oil system, put grease on the cam sync gear when installing.
add a few drops of oil to the top bushing.
was the old top bushing dry and loose?

 

[Mechrick]

The syncro gear is driven from the camshaft. Before spending any more money, verify the cam gear is not worn.

 

[fixizin]

Side note: when needing to turn over the engine without it starting, no need to "bump" the key, or disco the coil-pack (which might leave injectors squirting fuel into the cylinders...?, which is NOT good), simply push the gas pedal to the floor to achieve "WOT" (Wide Open Throttle) BEFORE turning the key--this enters a Diagnostic Mode called Clear Flooded Engine, which shuts off fuel injectors (but NOT spark), but if your cam gear and sync gear are good, you'll still pump oil.

CAUTION: first use your code-reader to insure your throttle travel and/or TPS is reaching OVER 90% which = WOT... do this with Key On Engine OFF...

... if all the way to the floor is < 90%, see my jury-rig fix here: (OR ya might be in dire need of the infamous 'Zip-Tie Throttle Cable Slack Takeup' jury-rig...)

>>Jury-rigged my TPS w/ Gorilla Glue... finally Got WOT!

Wasn't sure if I should revive last year's thread that started this odyssey of computer-controlled-engine "fun": https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/stretched-throttle-cable-zip-tie-fix-barely-changing-tps-sensor-not-easily-removed.202342/#post-2027015 BUT, we're here now...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[fixizin]

RE: design weakness in this oil-pump scheme... in a related thread:

You probably prolonged its life. But I would plan on replacing it soon. There is no telling how long it will run like this. You could probably take the cap off (engine off, of course) and try to rotate the rotor and see how much play it has on the drive gear. That would give an indication of how worn the gear teeth are. But I don’t have a “spec” to give you to say “this is too much play”.
That’s the next issue. The squeaking tells you that the upper bearing got dry. It is lubricated by a felt pad in a cavity that was oiled when new. But the engine does not feed fresh oil to the upper bearing of the cam sync shaft. The other issue is that eventually the drive gear wears. When it wears bad enough, it stops turning the cam synchronizer. That stops the engine. It also stops the oil pump. Of course, if the engine stops, it doesn’t need the oil pump. Either way, it could leave you stranded somewhere inconvenient.

That just sounds SOOOo... NOT right, that oil is not fed to that upper bearing, and a felt pad is supposed to hold decades worth of oil??

 

[Pistlpete44]

Good news!

I drained the oil and put a new filter on and there was nothing concerning that I could see. I installed the new synchronizer and fired it up. The oil light stayed on for about 5 seconds and the ticking went completely away within about 2 minutes. Everything seems to be fixed, just need to clear the codes.

One thing I would do differently is I would make sure that the area around the synchronizer be cleaned thoroughly before removing it. I'm sure that a few bits of grunge fell into that hole after I pulled it. I just hope that they work themselves into the filter.

Thanks again for everyone's help!

 

[fixizin]

Thanks for following up "new guy", that's how we ALL learn. Keep us posted...

Good news!

I drained the oil and put a new filter on and there was nothing concerning that I could see. I installed the new synchronizer and fired it up. The oil light stayed on for about 5 seconds and the ticking went completely away within about 2 minutes. Everything seems to be fixed, just need to clear the codes.

One thing I would do differently is I would make sure that the area around the synchronizer be cleaned thoroughly before removing it. I'm sure that a few bits of grunge fell into that hole after I pulled it. I just hope that they work themselves into the filter.

Thanks again for everyone's help!