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dash removal


Boggin

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2007
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5,711
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is there any steps around on removing the dash of an 89 BII? i would like to take mine out and paint it but not sure if im getting in over my head, id just like to get rid of the blue dash since its basicly the only thing left on the truck thats blue
 
is there any steps around on removing the dash of an 89 BII? i would like to take mine out and paint it but not sure if im getting in over my head, id just like to get rid of the blue dash since its basicly the only thing left on the truck thats blue

jeff. thats a huge undertaking.

you would be better off just masking off and removing what you can. and spraying it in the truck. thats what i did to mine and it came out great.

make sure on the vinyl you use duplicolor dye. and not rustoleum. it doesnt come out as good.

and wipe the vinyl down with laquer thinner. this opens the pores in the vinyl and allows the dye to really bond.

but if you want to remove the dash. im sure someone else will chime in. i know ill need to pull mine when i paint the truck soon because i know i have the typical rot under the cowel.
 
A genII dash takes about an hour to pull. That doesnt seem like a huge deal to me.


To remove the gen2 style dash:
there are four 7mm bolts across the top off the dash.
there are two 8mm bolts holding the lower corners in.
there is one 7 mm bolt hidden above the steering column.(you have to drop the column to see it. [two 14mm bolts])
remove the kick panels and dis connect any wires from the body to the dash. (power windows,locks,speakers,ect.)
dis connect the main harness in the engine compartment.(drivers side firewall. one 10mm.)
push in the three tabs on the main harness connector and push it through the firewall.
disconnect speedo cable from cluster.
there may be a ground wire in the center right below the dash.
open glove box past stops, disconnect antenna wire.
pull dash away from firewall, and disconnect 2 cables from heater box.
Look for any other wires that I forgot to list and disconnect.


I think there is one more bolt in the center down under the dash, but its been a few years since I pulled a genII dash, so i can be sure.


Here, if you want pictures to go with it:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=248021
 
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Yeah, if they're anything like an 88 Ranger it's actually pretty simple...you can pull the top part off, but be careful because they tend to crack with any kind of twisting...mine was in perfect condition until I pulled it out to do some wire work...when I put it back in I noticed that there was a crack along the top of the rubber...but it was at the side so it's not too noticeable...on another one I managed to crack it right over the steering wheel...and that slowly festered into a foam bath...
 
I've got to agree with blackwidow, mask and paint. From what I've seen that's what most people do. Biggest reason I'm removing mine is that I have to repair some rust in either foot well. Want as much room as possible to work and want to make sure there is no more rust hiding up behind the dash and factory sound block pad. While I've got it out I'll be painting the metal part of the dash the color I want the truck to be (it'll be a dark metallic blue) but I wouldn't pull it just to paint it. I'll also be putting sound deading (dynomat type) everywhere I can in the cab and since the dash will be out it will be all along the inside of the firewall, and backside of the dash as well. Since I'm swapping wiring harnesses (attempting to put in a cut down 99 Explorer V8 body harness) having the dash out of the way might make that easier also.

The dash in my 86 has fought tooth and nail to stay in. Hoping the Explorer will be a little easier.
 
thanks guys, i think its gonna be alittle tricky paint the top of the dash pad though, unless the windshield was out
 
You guys seem to be talking about the GenI dash. He has an 89 (GenII), I can have that dash out in about 30 minutes, without air tools! If its your 1st time, it may take about an hour.
 
I'm talking about a dash period. The first gen was my first, and a 99 Explorer will be my second.
 
Now are you talking about the top part or the whole thing? I'm talking about the entire dash, not just the pad and top shelf.
 
You have to remove the plastic insert around the gauges before you can pull the top off...or, at least, the top screws that go into the top panel...
 
You have to remove the plastic insert around the gauges before you can pull the top off...or, at least, the top screws that go into the top panel...

:icon_confused: You talking to me?

If so I got that part no problem. All I still needed to pull was the lower dash. It's out now. Had I known how everything was wired under there I probably could have done it quicker. I removed everything from the shell of the lower dash, I mean everything. Having glanced at the wiring with the dash out I think I could have disconnected a few more connectors, and left more of the wiring connected to the dash shell. Hell if past experience held most of those connectors wouldn't have unplugged anyway, after being connected for 25 years. Just as well the way it is though since I am replacing most of that wiring it would have to be removed from the dash anyway. I can say that when everything goes back together it will get connectors to make it quicker to pull. Now I can focus on fixing my rust and getting the wiring figured out. Good news is there is no rust in the corners of the windows.
 

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