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dangerranger1983 build


Its what the BW1350 is, a slip yoke, solid shaft and a single u-joint on th front and rear. Just unbolt it from the front diff. and it pulls out of the transfer case.

If I hadnt done the axle push forward the few inches I did, I may have gotten away with not having to do this but oh well. Lets hope this doesnt cost an arm and a leg to get done.
 
you might have a problem with shaft/u-joint angle. That is why i had to swap cases to get rid of the slip yoke.
 
I already got a look at the angle and I should be fine. Have to remember though I dont have as much suspension lift as you do either.
 
I know the 1350 shaft has little to no drive line angle, may want to put it on and check how much droop you can get out of it....just in case
 
Already did that when I went to measure how much I need to extend it. Just remember, this truck wont see huge flexing or anything much of that sort. Simple trail driving and some mud at the most. Right now its my DD and my only vehicle so cant go all out on it.

As for the driveshaft brought it to the place, gave them my name and number and they will call me back when its done and the cost Got a U-joint from advance auto parts since autozone didnt have any in stock. Good news is the one I got is greaseable plus didnt cost as much.
 
As for the Driveshaft brought it to the place, gave them my name and number and they will call me back when its done and the cost Got a U-joint from advance auto parts since autozone didnt have any in stock. Good news is the one I got is greaseable plus didnt cost as much.

Thanks for this information. Was wondering where to avail of them parts for the Driveshaft that I plan to buy early 2011. Thanks again. :icon_welder:
 
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correct me if im wrong, but i think the drive angle's have to match when you run a single joint on each side. so if you have 3 degree's down at the case you need 3 degrees up at the axle etc... might have to find a happy medium between the caster and the drive angle. i realize you dont plan to wheel it hard (neither did i) but with the front shaft spinning all the time you may end up with a vibration. But heck you might get luckey like i did (I'm running an unbalanced shaft) and have no vibration's. altho the broken belt's in the rear tire's were really pissin me off (just another excuse to get the 37's)
 
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One thing I'm going to say is you gotta have faith in yourself and the work you do. I will say that I have seen worse drive shaft angles get away with it. Right now my spring perches are level meaning the pinion angle is at the factory setting for a jeep. If i need more, its nothing the long arms cant help me with.

Cant say that the shaft getting done is luck, its bing done buy a guy that specializes in drive shafts, that all his business does and he runs it all by himself.
 
Drive shaft is done and installed. They didn't lengthen it, they made me a whole new drive shaft other then reusing the ends for the u-joints plus its balanced. He went ahead and replaced the other u-joint since he said it was looking nasty, and it probably was being it was the original 27 year old u-joint. From u-joint cap center to u-joint cap center it is 2 foot. Both joints are grease-able. Went to put install it on my truck and it fits like a glove. Took it out on some snow covered roads and works like a charm. Also took it on some clean pavement and it didn't bind or buck on me so that confirms that my front gears match my rear ones. I now officially have just over $2000 into my SAS (that includes the tires).

Driveshaft1.jpg
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Driveshaft2.jpg
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Now I can go have some fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
doesnt look like it... still wearin the goodbeer's in the pic.

I have between 15-1700 dollar's in mine not including tire's or wheel's as they were free!!! but that explain's why i have broken belt's in two tire's. I am VERY VERY glad i went this way (d30) as this winter i can spend the bulk of my money on settin up the D44 and 9"" with gear's bearing's locker's and what not. kinda excited to get the full width's under it and rolling but i want the axle's to be rebuilt from end to end before i even think of pullin the d30
 
The new tires wont be on until January as the cost to get the new tires off the rims they are and the other rims with the old tires and the mounting and balancing of th new tires onto those rims will cost m around 100 and thats money I don't have at the moment due to the holidays.

I have to say its nice not having to get out of the truck to lock/unlock hubs, just push in the clutch and switch to 4wd is nice!!!!!

Bad news, don't see anymore snow in the next coming weeks forecast, never fails.....
 
at that price go to tractor supply and buy yourself a manual tire machine i think there only like 70 buck's and then all you have to pay for is balancing. i bought one at the start of summer and have used the CRAP outta it!!! the only thing is the handle broke on the first pair of 33's i mounted so i ground the weld's off the tip and replaced the tube with a piece of black pipe. the original tubing was like conduit or something kinked super easy.

Just mount tho female threaded adapter's in the concrete so you can make it remoble and wont have two stud's sticking up.
 
Never thought about a manual tire remover, may look into that.

One thing I will need is a spare tire and I like the set-up that you have on your truck kroussinoffroad, not like I use my tailgate all the time plus I don't want a tire taking up my bed space. I just need to look more into how those are built.

Another winter project will be making some of my interior things camo such as my sun visors, my roof mounted clock and what not in the truck. Not going to make it all camo, just somethings here and there. This means time to do research on how to do it the poor mans way but still hold up.
 
alright so.... how do you like the d30 swap? i'm looking into for my b2.. i've been studing your build for a few days. can you give me a list of the stuff you ended up using? its hard to go thru and pick it out of the 18 pages you have lol. i hope i'm not asking to much.. any tips? secrets to the swap?
i must have missed it but your front is locked right? does that mess with the turning at all? you have detroits right?
 

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