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dangerranger1983 build


It held steady and only moved when the engine idled yup our down slightly, but no bouncing. I have a video to youtube that shows the needle.

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Oh ok cool. It just looked burry then. I need to get a speedometer hooked up so I can figure out my mpg's. I'm thinkin I'm gettin around 10 but that's a guesstimate.
How're the new hoses doin?
 
The new hose is doing great. I hooked my original ranger speedo cable into the transfercase and I'm only 4mph off, back to what it read when the truck was bone stock before I did any mods to it.

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i usually use an e series van speedo cable as it has some extra length and makes routing it safe as possible. usually mid late 80's low mile as possible.
 
I was told f150 will work but an e van like said will work too.

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So far 250 miles and so far so good on the swap. I needed to check everything again and make sure everything is where it should be, such as timing, wires, lines, etc... I still have no idea how warm it is running, I never got a new temp gauge but due to getting a new job, the fiancee losing hers due to they training her wrong and letting her go, money has got tight.

I adjusted the carb to highest vacuum for the mixture screws and it seems like my mileage got worse, I'm getting like 7 mpg now in town. I need to find the current jet sizes the carb has and go two lower.

Also, it seems like there was a crossover pipe that connected to the back sides of the heads at one time due to when it's running, exhaust comes out a hole in the one side that doesn't have a plate covering a hole. So I need to get that fixed, it will lower my person carbon monoxide intake and also lower the noise too.

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The ports in the back of the heads are straight threads, I forget if they take a 5/8 or 3/4 bolt about an inch long.

100_2208.jpg
 
So it's a simple a bolt screwing in the head to fix it? Is it the silver large bolt in the picture?

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So it's a simple a bolt screwing in the head to fix it? Is it the silver large bolt in the picture?

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Yup, I removed the smaller bolts later.

They will probably need tapped because of carbon buildup... it is going to be a pain with the engine in the truck (or at least in my truck)
 
My engine sits a bit more forward then normal do getting a bolt back there shouldn't be a problem, nothing slowly grinding to length cant fix, if need.

My question is, what weet the holes for if they are tapped but allure exhaust through them? Do the e7 heads have the holes too?

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My engine sits a bit more forward then normal do getting a bolt back there shouldn't be a problem, nothing slowly grinding to length cant fix, if need.

My question is, what weet the holes for if they are tapped but allure exhaust through them? Do the e7 heads have the holes too?

They are tapped because they go straight through the head, whichever end is towards the front is plugged. The bugger IMO is getting the threads cleaned out, sure you can cut a bolt down but a cut down tap doesn't work quite right.

My E7's were already plugged, I don't know if they all are or a mod the Mustanger did before I got them. Looks like factory plugs though.
 
If you are good, you can make a crude but effective tap out of a bolt with the help of a bench grinder, more of a thread chaser/cleaner you could say. If I had know that they were open to the exhaust, I would have plug it before I put the engine in. Now it's a matter of finding time to get it done along with everything else on my list for the truck.

Wonder how good jb weld as a sealer for the thread would work. I don't see me being to take the bolts out ever again.

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J.B.Weld is a miraculous thing, I have seen people use that stuff to fix a chip in exhaust manifolds.



Robert




Posted with a gaggle and a mumsford.
 
I thought I could get those bolts in the back of the heads with my engine in the chasis when I was putting it in, but I had to lift it up and move it forward lol mine was probably closer to the firewall though. I have GT40 heads, and yes, E7s have those too.
 
I wanna say my engine has about 2 inches forward then most 302 swaps. I can get the bellhousing bolts out with the engine in, as a matter of fact I have more space to pull those bolts then when I had my 2.8.

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