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dangerranger1983 build


The exploder 8.8 is an easy swap, did mine at my buddies place one afternoon since he has a welder

:icon_welder:
 
I have currently have the 1220 joint and 2.5 bolt pattern flange driveshaft. The easy to swap upgrade 8.8 rear ends require driveshafts that have the 1310 or 1330 joints and/or the 3 inch hole flanges on them. Sure I can drill an 8.8 rear for 2.5 but that still leaves me with the 1220 ujoint. Im best off finding a driveshaft the has what i need or can be upgraded to what I need that can fit the 8.8 and np205.

As for front driveshaft, I might be able to buy one.

EDIT: Just saw the tranny post. All depends on what I can find and Ill go from there, as long as an np205 can bolt to it. I just hate to run more cooling lines and whatnot. Its one of those things that I may mess with when tranny time comes.
 
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I say auto as well. Just hook up a nice big cooler for it (hopefully w/ an aux fan) for when you are wheeling. I guess it wouldn't hurt when it's driven around town either...Keeping it cool with keep that trans happy.

That is the big thing with an automatic, keep it cool.

As opposed to going to a power sucking AOD I am lying in wait of an M5OD to come haplessly along. My C5 works but the lack of overdrive is far from ideal. When it has a problem it probably won't be fixed.

It would be funny after all going back in forth we have had about them if you ended up with an automatic and I ended up with a manual :D
 
each trans has it's place. i am personally a firm believer in manual's. i was gonna run the auto in the explore but QUICKLY decided against that. i think a manual is a much better trans for the general wheelin i do (mud and slippery technical stuff). however i do see the advantage of an auto for crawling and for straight up mud racing. hard to manually shift as fast as an auto can be setup to.

oh and loose all the fluid outta an auto and your up a creek. loose all your fluid outta a manual. use whatever you got.
BTW i have never had anything bind up the clutch (as far as mud and sticks) and i think i have had the transmission submerged in its fair share of slop
 
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oh and loose all the fluid outta an auto and your up a creek. loose all your fluid outta a manual. use whatever you got.

If you know your manual is out of fluid, it ain't like an automatic where there is a huge puddle immediatly and forward motion stops right now.

We rebuild a lot of manual transmissions that were either ran out of oil or with contaminated oil, and tractors are built a little heavier than a truck.
 
Im still debating and yes I am a firm believer in manual trannies and may still end up with one if I can find at least a 4 speed. Havent gone through my Jy with a fine tooth comb yet to check out ALL the 4wd trucks but hope to find one thats manual that will hook to an np205, if it already doesnt have one on it.

First thing is first though...get this engine gone through. To cold outside to want to go to the JY and see what they have got. I get 2 checks this Friday (2 jobs and I get up in 4 hours to go to my first which is part time which is funding the 302 swap) but will hopefully be ordering stuff for the 302 along with a new wheel bearing.
 
Since its already setup for a manual you have more options. I would just look for a good deal on whatever. But, if your deadset on a manual then just look for one.

Sent from my HTC using Tapatalk
 
I prefer a manual but when I am offroad/trail driving at slow speeds it really sucks pushing or holding the clutch all the time. Leg hurts after a while and then I have to sit there a few minutes cause my knee is killing me. So for that I would rather have an auto. But as a daily driver, the manual is better IMO.

Sent from my HTC using Tapatalk
 
IBut as a daily driver, the manual is better IMO.

I despised mine when I lived in the city, stop and go traffic got old real quick.

Otherwise in podunkville where I grew up, it was fun.
 
I cant stand auto for anything.. if your geared for it manuals are just fine offroad. i find auto's always shift at the worst times especially in mud
 
For the 8.8, you could swap the flange on the axle and use your current driveshaft until you find what you want.

I prefer a manual but when I am offroad/trail driving at slow speeds it really sucks pushing or holding the clutch all the time. Leg hurts after a while and then I have to sit there a few minutes cause my knee is killing me.

Thats what a doubler is for.
 
For the 8.8, you could swap the flange on the axle and use your current driveshaft until you find what you want.



Thats what a doubler is for.

You can build me one in Exchange for the tk5. Ha

Sent from my HTC using Tapatalk
 
I tell you what, that plate is a pain to make. Making sure everything lines up. Check, check, drill, check, tap, check....
 
For the 8.8, you could swap the flange on the axle and use your current driveshaft until you find what you want.

I didnt think that the flange from a 7.5 that has the 2.5 drilled holes can swap to an exploder 8.8 that has the 3 inch flange. Thought I read somehwere that you cant do that or was told that.:icon_confused: And also what about the pinion, wouldnt it be a different size from the 2,5 to 3 flange? Please do tell me about this if there is a way around it.:icon_cheers:

I also wonder if I can have a 1310 or 1330 ujoint/flange setup put on my current rear driveshaft.:icon_idea: My front driveshaft is the same diameter but has a 1310 joint on it, IIRC, or whatever a D30 has.
 
If its abything like suzuki's or toyotas most of the centering rings in the driveshaft flange are the same so all i do is put the driveshaft in and rotate it so i can drill a new pattern in. but if the flanges are different diameters i doubt it work
 

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