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dangerranger1983 build


I dont have my trackbar in the "factory" location on the axle i dont remeber why i couldnt but i'm pretty sure i used the spot where the stock steering stabalizer bolt's to. I didnt need any bend's in my trac bar and at full compression (no spring's) i only had to trim the front edge off my engine crossmember to clear the trac bar. shortly there after the diff come's into contavt with the crossmember. if this were to ever happen on the trail's i would have a lot more to worry about because my tire's would be burried into my engine compartment my front shock's would be GONE and bump stop's destroyed i Have full range of motion on the axle and my steerin and trac bar doesnt even com close to binding. if the passanger were to drop out about another 12'' it would max out the rod end on the pitman arm and i'm still runnin the factory pitman arm.
 
I'm not able to hook my steering stablizer, its still bolted to my draglink due to the bolt being seized on it. I already cut up some of the bracket that holds my steering stablizer so can't mount an aftermarket trackbar there but its still strong enough for a stablizer. I'm looking at the trackbar that escort has and modding the jeep trackbar mount that I got from him so that I can run two eye hole mounts instead of a TRE on one side.
 
i couldnt even mount up the factory trac bar cuz the tre was about limited out at ride height
 
Im trying to figure out exactly which heims I need from rough stuff, like the exact ones and how many of left/right I need. I plan on going with the weld in bungs. Do they sell DOM tubbing, cant find it if they do, I would rather spport a TRS vendor if I can for all or as much of this as possible.

Do I have to drill out the knuckles for the bolt or is there a special type of fitting that can go into it so that I can bolt the steering up with out having to do that?

Any links to all of this is greatly helpful, start buying stuff now so I can dive right into it this spring (or sooner if needed to or if I get really bord this winter).

I drilled out my knucles, but there are special tappered bolts you can use...I will have to find a link if you are interesed, but they cost like $18 per bolt.
 
Id rather keep my knuckles untouched if I can so a link to the bolts would be awsome.
 
Thanks, I'll look more into it when I get on a computer.

Well filled the truck up and calculated 8.6 MPG, better then the 6.4 I was getting. But due to being cold out, having to warm her up and really nothing but in town driving, can't say its going to get . Right now she runs and drives nicely so no complaints here.

Btw........Happy 22nd bday today for me. Not going to do much other then go hunting Friday evening. Going to take my truck since my dads clutch wasn't finished up.
 
Thanks. Well the truck held up nicely, no problems so I think all is good. Loves doing 55-60mph. I've done 27miles of mostly country road driving and the gas guage hasnt moved yet. Now to click on the links given to me and take a look at everything.
 
Thanks everybody. Okay as for the knuckles and drillng them out, how long does it take for the bolt for the hejms tk wallow out the knuckles, would it be best to do the special bolt or can I still run TREs with the crossover steering setup, like the one that hooks the knuckles together are TREs but the draglink is heims, kinda like a hybrid setup. Only problem I see is a TRE with a long enough thread to allow a heim with missalignment spacer to bolt to.
 
mine is still tighter than tight. not even a hint of the hole wallowing out. if the bolt were to come loose it may wallow it out but then again so would a tappered bolt. with everyting mounted on one side there would be a ton of leverage on that one bolt. i belive i needed at 4 1/2" long bolt or longer.
 
Well if it wallows out due to a lack of grease because of metal to metal rubbing, I wonder if a hole can be drilled into where the TRE bolts to the knuckle and a grease fitting put in it. This truck may still be my DD so reliability will be at its highest.
 

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