Dana 35?

[bobbywalter]

with stockish power they hold up well.




i never had stockish power. i could destroy all the shafts in one run if not careful....along with a lockout or two...split spindles etc.

with the front diff OPEN


in any case smart driving puts you way ahead of the game, junkie has proven this to me beyond any doubt.

 

[1RangerNut]

Yeah it'll be stockish minus some kind of an intake and exhaust.

Do you full C clip all 3 joints or just the outer 2?

Also if the front is open do I need to do the C-clip eliminator spring?

 

[bobbywalter]

usually dont c clip them....bust em off at the splines...or the spider/side gear explodes and fawks em up..

didnt find it worth the effort. i did do it when i had time.

tack welds are worth it though.


in your case, c clips on the outers is a good idea. i ran my rig on the road at hiway speeds in 4x4, and rarely had issues with clips on the whole, but i am careful with intallation/prep. but my caps did spin on a few shafts do to road use.. thats when the snap rings are worth having.

 

[1RangerNut]

Correction do you full snap ring all 3 or just the 2?

 

[bobbywalter]

i would do the outers. the center if you want

 

[1RangerNut]

OK thats what I figured.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Do you drive the truck on the street if so how are the ball joints & bearings holding up?

Yes, the truck is street driven. It was daily driven for the last 6-7 years on 35" plus tires.

I just got back from a 450km round trip wheeling/camping weekend with it.

I have not had bearing issues with it to date. Just exploding hubs.

 

[1RangerNut]

Ok thanks for all the info.

I'll just have to give it a try and see what happens.

It'll be my daily so hopefully it holds together.

 

[4x4junkie]

Wheels without too wide of an offset will go a long ways in making the bearings last longer.

A standard 15x8" wheel w/3.75" backspace works well, as would a 15x10 w/4.5" backspace. A 15x10 w/3.75 BS is gonna strain them a little more though.

As for the u-joint clips, the outer two are most important, however I did all 3 on mine. Like was mentioned, you can also just tack-weld the caps to the axle yokes just as effectively, though this makes it more difficult if you ever have to service them at a later date.

 

[1RangerNut]

It has 15x12 wheels not sure on the backspacing though.

I'll probably just clip all 3.

Also how much does everthing need clearanced with just a SJ class 2?

 

[Will]

The bearings, I never had trouble with. I didn't run the 35 Hawgs on the street very long. About a month of street driving. On the street I run stock rims with 31x10.5s. For a B2 with it's tiny wheelbase, a 31 is enough tire to do almost anything.

The thing about wheel bearings is, they like to be loose, but close. When you preset them, you have to run the wheel back and forth while torquing them to 35 ft# or whatever. Then, you let them all the way loose and snug them to 25 or something INCH-Pounds. Just to take up clearance. It's important. The locknut goes to 150, though I know some people tun it tighter. I think if you need to run it tighter, you have't spent enough time getting the extra grease out. Huge offset rims, though, I would listen to the poeple that run them regularly and haven't had failures.

Anything you do with anything--the trick is to find the people that like it and do what they do. If you find the people that don't like it, they did it wrong. You don't find out what to do with a D35 by looking at D60 people.

You aren't going to put 37s on my truck and bust it, know what I mean? My truck is old, polished and I've been there with it. I have a pile of axles that broke, and I studied why. My truck will run 90mph on the highway, carry and plow with a 500# plow, run about any trail you want to run--easily, and get you home again. It's perfect. It's the thing you go get when everything else fails. It took a long time to get here, but it doesn't have Dana 60s and whatever. But for ten years it's plowed my snow, skidded logs, hauled firewood up and down seriously steep Brown County hills, pulled people out after heavy snowstorms, pulled sleds of screaming kids up and down the field, and even gone on a few 4-wheeling excursions. Oh, and it was my daily driver.

You massage your truck and make it what you want it to be. If it breaks, figure out why and fix it. Don't just slap on bigger axles.

I have enough money to do whatever I want to. In ten years with this thing, nothing has happened that I couldn't figure out. It's a hog.

For mowing grass, I have a Toro Groundsmaster--not a Yardman. For general gruntwork and occasioanl fun, a B2 with a 4.0 and properly massaged D35/8.8 meets the bill. It's a professional grade setup, if you figure it out.

 

[1RangerNut]

Yeah I'm not swaping out axles thats why wanted to know how stronger they are.

I wanna be different around here and run whats under it not change everything out like all the jeep guys do with there D60's and V8's

 

[4x4junkie]

It has 15x12 wheels not sure on the backspacing though.

That's definitely a bit much, regardless of the backspace. I'd seriously look at replacing those with 15x10s w/4.5" backspacing (if the tires are 12.50 wide, 15x8s (3.75 BS) would work just as well, and will also hold the bead better if you air down for the trail).

 

[1RangerNut]

Thats a good point about the airing down thing I never thought about that.

They should be 13" wide so I'll probably try and find some 15x10's to put them on.

 

[Will]

I bought a manual tire changer this year and started putting tubes in everything that my wife doesn't drive. You can run whatever air you want and not worry about it.

A chainsaw is a man's tool. A manual tire tool is a man's man's tool.