Dana 35 Spindle Studs?

[4x4junkie]

I have the largest availalbe in now and still need more.

Sounds like your suspension's ride height is in serious need of adjustment (or you need different length lift brackets).
I'd look into that before messing around with spindle shims (ESPECIALLY ones that are so thick and crooked that you need new longer studs ).

 

[sbsrlewis]

I'm not running any drop brackets. I'm using the JD coil buckets and MOOG coil springs for a F150. According to the "Tuning the TTB" in the Tech Section you should try and have the beams parallel to the ground and that's how mine are.

The factory studs are long enough for one shim and possibility two but then there would be no thread protrusion. So I talked to the guy at the alignment shop along with a mechanic friend of mine and they said there is nothing wrong with what I'm doing. This is the the way the early TTB's were aligned.

Like they say, there is more than one way to skin a cat. I'm not dismissing your comments and concerns.


Steve

 

[legoms013]

Using shims is not the way to fix alignment issues. You can't tell me its the right thing to do, even if it was done in the past or is the way somebody else has done it.

There needs to be thread protusion period on the studs. If there is not, that is a safety concern.

The spindle is a tight fit for a reason. Messing with the mating surfaces is asking for it. It is the same issue as highsteer arms. The studs are not the only factor that accounts for the arm staying attached as one to the knuckle. It is also a matter of the clamping force against the FLAT mating surfaces, and the friction between the two surfaces that also holds everything together properly. If the studs in either scenario are subjected to loads and stresses that were not part of the design process then failure is what will result. The studs cannot take shear loads, that is not their design; their purpose is to keep the spindle tight against the knuckle.

If you are forced for whatever reason to use spindle spacers, then I suspect you may have way bigger issues than just getting it to align.

If this is a TTB rig you speak of, there are much better ways to fix it so it aligns properly, and most importantly, safely for you and the people on the road next to you.

 

[-Nathan-]

Using shims is not the way to fix alignment issues. You can't tell me its the right thing to do, even if it was done in the past or is the way somebody else has done it.

There needs to be thread protusion period on the studs. If there is not, that is a safety concern.

The spindle is a tight fit for a reason. Messing with the mating surfaces is asking for it. It is the same issue as highsteer arms. The studs are not the only factor that accounts for the arm staying attached as one to the knuckle. It is also a matter of the clamping force against the FLAT mating surfaces, and the friction between the two surfaces that also holds everything together properly. If the studs in either scenario are subjected to loads and stresses that were not part of the design process then failure is what will result. The studs cannot take shear loads, that is not their design; their purpose is to keep the spindle tight against the knuckle.

If you are forced for whatever reason to use spindle spacers, then I suspect you may have way bigger issues than just getting it to align.

If this is a TTB rig you speak of, there are much better ways to fix it so it aligns properly, and most importantly, safely for you and the people on the road next to you.

THIS.

Adding shims behind a spindle is one of the dumbest things ever done. The spindle is a tight fit into the knuckle so as to stay there. As said by others, there is something else wrong with your front end, and should be addressed. Ultimately it is your decision, but the abundance of criticism, and knowledge displayed by other members should not be taken lightly.

 

[sbsrlewis]

Once again I appreciate all of you're knowledge and concern but I don't appreciate you thinking that just because I'm not doing it your way then I'm doing it the wrong way! Like I said there is more that one way to skin a cat.

Google Dana 44 shims. Check this out. http://www.jeepfan.com/tech/adjusting-camber/ There is plenty of information out there on them. Both for and against using them. They aren't used much anymore and most newer shops and younger people dont even know about them. Ask your dad, uncles or grandpa about them. They are a viable method.

There are people that think a lifted truck is dangerous but here we all are lifting and driving ours.

The shim is a complete circle (I'm not putting washers on each stud) and is wedged. The ones I'm using are about 1/8" thick at the thickest part and maybe 1/16" 180 degree across. The spindle is fully supported and there is no extra stress on the studs! The spindle still slips on and off without any binding or rubbing of the studs. If it didn't then I would have concern and wouldn't use them.


Steve

 

[CHKNFKR]

It's not a matter of our way vs. your way. Its a matter of the right way vs. the wrong way. I challenge you to find these shims you have in a Ford manual.

Just because "they used to do it all the time" doesn't make it right. Cocaine used to be legal and available over the counter, does that mean it's acceptable to use it today?

 

[CHKNFKR]

Also, you are not just risking your safety and the safety of you passengers, you are risking the safety of every driver and every passenger sharing the road with you. Do the right thing, get it properly aligned.

 

[4x4junkie]

Well, I would probably agree a single shim that differs by only 1/16" thickness between each side probably wouldn't present an issue, however I still say you got major issues elsewhere and that shims are just band-aids.

I'm not quite sure what you're referring to when you say your beams are "parallel to the ground" (nowhere does the TTB article say that), however if the suspension was sitting at it's proper ride height, guaranteed you would not be having this issue (that is, unless your beams are bent or something).

See this page instead (scroll down near the bottom). Your beam pivots should be one inch higher off the ground than the center of your wheel hubs. Get them within an inch of that and you won't be needing any of this mickey mouse stuff.