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dana 30 swap


i have arms off a 70's f-150. and i have cherokee 3in coils so i should be good to go
 
So what steering components from what vehicles can be used on the D30? Can I use my set-up on my 83 ranger on the D30? Any and all help would be great. I got my D30 for free too and mine doesnt have a CAD on it. I plan on using leaf springs.
 
Now I need to get a set of those. My D30 didnt com with it. Do i need to grab the stearing box for the cherokee to or will my drop arm for my ranger box hook up to the cherokee linkage. Is the linkage from a wrangler the same (you would think it is).

I dont plan on lifting my truck, I just want a SAS under it.

Thx.
 
use your stock steering box and pitman arm. i dont think the wrangler steering is the same it easier to find steering for the cherokee anyway.

what springs are you planing on using
 
Either yj ro cj springs from what I've read are the ones to use. Or any other springs that will work that I find that can fit under my truck. Im building on a buget. But I've ran into a problem with my engine swap, specificly with the clutch set up.

My D30 came off a cherokee and has all the stuff for a coil spring set up but I dont want to mess with a 3 or 4 link set up unless it is cheeper or I can find instructions (good luck) on how to do it plus pictures.
 
the cheapest way is probably to go with leaf springs. when i was looking into doing leafs i was going to use toyota rear springs. they are easier to find than yj or cj springs.

if you want to use coils i would build a y link setup its the long arm kit for the cherokees the kits are around 700 but you can build them for way cheaper. for your lower link you put a bushing on one end then put a hiem joint or ballistic joint thats adjustable and attach that to your frame.

then for your upper links you make them adjustable with bushings and attach them to your lower links

your going to have to build an adjustable track bar and you have to modify your coil buckets
 
What kind of rear toyota leaf springs were you going to use, like from what kind of vehicle? I've read that people are using ones with an eye to eye measurement of 41 inches. I'm going to be doing this on a bugget.

Another thing is my drive shafts and what u-joints I can use. I dont think the D28 u-joints will hook up to a D30 front axle. Same thing with the 7.5 and D35 drive shaft u-joints. I see me going to a drive shaft shop in the future.
 
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i was going to use rear springs off a 2wd pickup.

your u-joints will work on the front but you might have to shorten or lengthen your drive line. and you can cut your front shaft and sleeve it to make it shorter or longer

for the rear you want a different drive line anyway get one out of a ford explorer i would find an 8.8 instead of the d35 all the jeep guys swap the 8.8. if you find one out of a ranger it will bolt right in. the explorer axle will need shock mounts and spring perches but that can be done for 30 dollars.
 
Well heres the thing. I got the D30 and D35 for free. The gearing on the D30 and D35 are the same (4.56). The D35 has a detroit locker, new bearings, new seales, new gears, in other words $400 worth of work done to it. The D30 does not have the vacuum lock (CAD) on it.

As for the drive shafts I dont care if I have to shorten them or lengthen them, I know im going to have to do that and I'll just take it to a drive shaft shop for that. I was just worried about the u-joints being the same size.


Thank you so much if you have anything else to add that I might have forgotten , please add it.
 
Well heres the thing. I got the D30 and D35 for free. The gearing on the D30 and D35 are the same (4.56). The D35 has a detroit locker, new bearings, new seales, new gears, in other words $400 worth of work done to it. The D30 does not have the vacuum lock (CAD) on it.

As for the drive shafts I dont care if I have to shorten them or lengthen them, I know im going to have to do that and I'll just take it to a drive shaft shop for that. I was just worried about the u-joints being the same size.


Thank you so much if you have anything else to add that I might have forgotten , please add it.

A D30 swap into a 2WD Ranger isn't too bad, replacing the already stronger D35 with a D30 is nonsense... Replacing the MUCH stronger 8.8" rear with something that is unreliably weak in a much lighter vehicle is even more nonsense... Why not go with coils? Your truck is already set up for it along with the axle... It will be 10x easier going with coils... Just use what's already there...
 
A D30 swap into a 2WD Ranger isn't too bad, replacing the already stronger D35 with a D30 is nonsense... Replacing the MUCH stronger 8.8" rear with something that is unreliably weak in a much lighter vehicle is even more nonsense...

well considering he probably has a 7.5 instead of the 8.8, it is an improvement. the dana 35 ring gear is larger and it has a detroit locker. so hes actually improving. i would much rather have a dana 30 over the dana 35 ttb but consider the year of his truck, i think he may also have a dana 27. plus from the pic in the avatar, i looks like his truck is a single cab so its pretty light.

throw those axles under that truck as some have stated, and keep the coil set-up.
 
I have a D28 front and a 7.5 rear end. My truck is the late 83's, the first to get 4wd.

Ya its a single cab.

I've read that the factory TTB coils are to "stiff" for a D30 set-up. Is this true? I'm not going to be off roading with it. I want to replace the TTB with a SAS because I got the stuff for free, it will look cool, stronger, and the D28 needs new parts that will exceed the cost of putting a SAS under it.

I'll go outside take messurements, etc.... and see what I can do.

Like you have all said use whats there, and you have done this, so Ill take your words for it. The only thing I hate to mess with is a four link set-up and thats what I was trying to avoid doing by putting leafs on. Think I can get away with using the four links on the cherokee or not, my D30 came with them.

I might just flip a coin. Its that frustrating to me. Wiring a truck is easier.
 
You do know a D35 is a bolt-in affair right? A rear D35 will NOT be an upgrade no matter if he has a 7.5" or 8.8"... I'd sell the D35 SA and D30 SA, keep the 7.5" or upgrade to a 8.8", and throw the locker in the front D35 TTB I bolt in... Otherwise the D30 isn't terrible (still a downgrade when the D35 TTB is a bolt in affair)... TTB coils are too stiff for good flex in the TTB... Just use some Jeep coils... I'm not trying to persuade you NOT to do this, just letting you know there are much better options...
 
I think theres confusion... I own a Dana 35 rear end with all the goodies in it. It is a built rear end meaning stronger then factory and stronger then my 7.5 I have.

As for the D28.... it needs money put into it to. It may last me another year. The cost of fixing or getting a D35 TTB will exceed the money and time that I have that it will take to put my D30 under my truck.

As for the factory coils on the front they taper down like a beehive. They wont fit into the D30 coil spots. I agree with using the Jeep coils. Mabey my brother-in-law still has them and I can get them off of him. But on the other hand Im not confedent enough to put a four link under my truck. IF I can get the cherokee four link to work then I will use coils. IF not then leafs it is. I'm not worried about ride quality or how smooth of a drive my truck or how much flex I can get out of it, I just want the D30 under the front and my D35 in the rear. The most off road it will see is a corn field to get a dead animal or snow.


Basiclly I'm going for the easiest, quickest, and cheapest set up that will last me mabey another 6-10 years if I'm that lucky.

From what reasearch ive done and whatnot I have more knowledge of a leaf set-up then a coil set-up and feel more confedent with me doing leafs then coil....for now. Nothing says I wont own another Ranger and deck it out with all the goodies I can. I'm doing baby steps, I've never done this kind of mods. to anything, I'm still learning.

Thanks for all the help.
 

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