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D60 and 14b build


hey brendan i have a question for you.

what vehical and year did you get your 14 bolt out of?

and how much did you cost you?

thanks!
-cody
 
i been looking for a 14 bolt with 410's and cant find one...:dntknw:


pisses me off to no end....i wonder if eaton has a e locker for them yet.
 
14 bolts are cheaper then dirt around here, d60's are almost cheaper to purchase in a vehicle then they are seperate.

-andrew
 
hey brendan i have a question for you.

what vehical and year did you get your 14 bolt out of?

and how much did you cost you?

thanks!
-cody

The 14 bolt was $250 at the junkyard, and it was already removed so I have no idea what it's actually from. It's open w/ 4.10's and has damn near new brakes.
 
i had bought a 83 1 ton diesel suburban for $400, had a 60 front and a 14blt ff rear. 4.10's with the factory gov lock. i beat on that thing for a couple months doing offroad recoveries, then sold the set of rear out from under it for 1000 together.....

the 14blt is worth TOPS 400, the front 60's is where the money comes in
 
Most of the CUCV military rigs have 4.56's and detroits in the rear. If you can, look for one of them. There are a lot of them running around up here.
 
...with the factory gov lock...
The open carriers are more desirable than the Gov lock carriers. In a worthwhile wheelin rig, limited slip isn't worth much anyway.

the front 60's is where the money comes in

GM Dana 60's are low pinion, passenger side drop, not real desirable. The Ford-spec 60's were High pinion, driver drop, and the 78/79 vintage had kingpins instead of balljoints.
 
The open carriers are more desirable than the Gov lock carriers. In a worthwhile wheelin rig, limited slip isn't worth much anyway.



GM Dana 60's are low pinion, passenger side drop, not real desirable. The Ford-spec 60's were High pinion, driver drop, and the 78/79 vintage had kingpins instead of balljoints.

All ford front 60s from 78-90 or 91 are Kingpin they went to balljoints after either 90 or 91 cant remember which.
 
i know the open carriers are more desireable, however the govlock actually works really well if its in good working order. if u can find a chebbie front d60 for under $500 then u are a god to the guys out here, normally sets like i sold out here sell for like 1200+

The open carriers are more desirable than the Gov lock carriers. In a worthwhile wheelin rig, limited slip isn't worth much anyway.



GM Dana 60's are low pinion, passenger side drop, not real desirable. The Ford-spec 60's were High pinion, driver drop, and the 78/79 vintage had kingpins instead of balljoints.
 
All ford front 60s from 78-90 or 91 are Kingpin they went to balljoints after either 90 or 91 cant remember which.


The earlier axles also had the narrower spring pad width, making them easier to add link brackets and moving the differential closer to the center of the axle. If I remember correctly, the last year to get a KP axle would have been 91. I think 92 marked the beginning of the Ball Joint axles.
 
i know the open carriers are more desireable, however the govlock actually works really well if its in good working order. if u can find a chebbie front d60 for under $500 then u are a god to the guys out here, normally sets like i sold out here sell for like 1200+

Limited slips dont do crap when a tire is off the ground, they only transfer a percentage of power. any percent of 0% is 0. worthless offroad.
 
The earlier axles also had the narrower spring pad width, making them easier to add link brackets and moving the differential closer to the center of the axle. If I remember correctly, the last year to get a KP axle would have been 91. I think 92 marked the beginning of the Ball Joint axles.

Yea they are worth more then the 80-91 fronts. I just sold my 79 F350 front for 1000.
 
Thought I'd add a bit of an update to the longest fricken' build ever... :nopityA:

Here's a pic of how it sits as of today:
100_2659.jpg

It's 31" to the bottom of the frame rails in the front. It's a bit higher than I would have liked, but the cutout flares still need to be put on so I will lower it after if I have enough room in the wheel wells.

Still to be done:
-Make a proper steering and trac bar setup from DOM
-Put on the 14B disc brake kit
-Finish off shock mounts
-Make a transmission crossmember that ties the radius arm mounts together
-Build exhaust
-Get an alignment
-Put on cutout flares
-Install 5.38's and Detroit rear/Lock-right front
 

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