Shran
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Solid Axle Swap
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Actually if you use the axle shafts with the larger joints and TJ passenger side shaft, it's not really any weaker than a D-35 TTB.
Actually if you use the axle shafts with the larger joints and TJ passenger side shaft, it's not really any weaker than a D-35 TTB.
The housing and the ring & pinion gears are all weaker.
The D35 also has a slightly larger pinion shaft diameter than both the D30 and D44 (less gear deflection). This combined with the slightly larger ring puts the D35's gears quite a bit ahead of the D30's.
On stock shafts with stock 5-297X u-joints, the u-joint's hot-forged cross is usually the weak link.
You put cold-forged 5-760X u-joints in with full circle clips on the caps, the D44's little 1.09" necked down shaft then becomes the weak link. On the D30 & 35, it tends to be the 27 spline ends.
The R&P gears makes the most important difference though IMO. The D35 (and D44) gears are still significantly stronger than even a 760X-prepped shaft, where on the D30, this margin is far smaller. This is why fairly often (although not every time) you'll see gear failures on D30s, but almost never on the D35 or a D44 (take a look over on Pirate, there's tons of people showing off their busted up D30 gears. Yet R&P failures are not overly common even on the crappy POS rear Jeep D35, it's almost always broken shafts).
I sure would rather have break a cheaper easily replaceable part (the shaft) than something that requires a complete teardown of the axle in the shop (gears).
Of course you do have to know the limits of your truck too. If you feel you have a tire bound up, then try to reposition. Hammering it with a tire bound up against a rock can land you a broken 5-806X joint in a 35 spline D60 shaft just the same.
Edit:
I just realized that shaft has a c-clip groove on the end of it. That tells me it's not a D30 shaft. What axle is it from?
Whatever the case, it makes them pretty equal to the D30/35 stuff, so the benefits of the even larger D44 diff/R&P vs. the D35 aren't able to be realized that well. Shafts without the neckdowns would certainly help however.
but as stated before, if you're going to build an axle like that, you might as well get 4340 shafts, then it puts it up into an entirely different class.
Naw, I'd just get a D60. The return for the $$$ is much better on it![]()
If you dont get aftermarket shafts with aftermarket joints, the D44 and D30 shafts are now the same. Seems rather pointless to swap in a D44 and then use the stock shafts that are the same as a D30/D35.Naw, I'd just get a D60. The return for the $$$ is much better on it![]()
The D35 also has a slightly larger pinion shaft diameter than both the D30 and D44 (less gear deflection). This combined with the slightly larger ring puts the D35's gears quite a bit ahead of the D30's.
On stock shafts with stock 5-297X u-joints, the u-joint's hot-forged cross is usually the weak link.
You put cold-forged 5-760X u-joints in with full circle clips on the caps, the D44's little 1.09" necked down shaft then becomes the weak link. On the D30 & 35, it tends to be the 27 spline ends.
The R&P gears makes the most important difference though IMO. The D35 (and D44) gears are still significantly stronger than even a 760X-prepped shaft, where on the D30, this margin is far smaller. This is why fairly often (although not every time) you'll see gear failures on D30s, but almost never on the D35 or a D44 (take a look over on Pirate, there's tons of people showing off their busted up D30 gears. Yet R&P failures are not overly common even on the crappy POS rear Jeep D35, it's almost always broken shafts).
I sure would rather have break a cheaper easily replaceable part (the shaft) than something that requires a complete teardown of the axle in the shop (gears).
Of course you do have to know the limits of your truck too. If you feel you have a tire bound up, then try to reposition. Hammering it with a tire bound up against a rock can land you a broken 5-806X joint in a 35 spline D60 shaft just the same.
Edit:
I just realized that shaft has a c-clip groove on the end of it. That tells me it's not a D30 shaft. What axle is it from?
First of all, the idea of a .030" in difference in pinion shaft diameter between the HP D35 and HP D30 having less deflection is simply rediculous, especially when you have a big pinion bearing that transfers the load before it even gets to that point.
Second, if your an idiot, and are blowing out HP ring and pinions, over shafts, you dont know how to drive.
Third, the D35 TTB has one more joint than a D30 solid, making it have one more weak link in the setup.
Forth, saying that the D35 -aluminum- housing, that is bolted to a sheet metal TTB arm is stronger than the fairly thick cast steel D30 housing is rediculous.
And finally, I have seen more blown out LP D44's than I have seen blown out HP D30s, the strength between the two axles is negligable, with the benefit being the bigger shafts and hubs, low pinion front axles suck and shouldnt even be considered for an offroad application.
You keep pressing this Lie, but the truth doesnt change. The D30 is every bit as stout as the D35 TTB.