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D35 pinion shims...


Hagan

08/2013 OTOTM Winner
V8 Engine Swap
OTOTM Winner
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Jan 3, 2009
Messages
1,079
City
Salem, OR
Vehicle Year
1986
Transmission
Manual
So I'm about to setup my ring and pinion and I am pretty confused how you adjust the pinion depth. The only shim I see is a huge slinger shim underneath the pinion bearing...is that the one I need to change? Thats how my 8.8 was but it was much smaller.
 
I've never had one apart but I assumed it was like the 8.8.. Is the shim under the inner race possibly?
 
I've never had one apart but I assumed it was like the 8.8.. Is the shim under the inner race possibly?

Not according to the d35 diagram. Apparently its the big round shim closest to the pinion teeth is it. I can't find anywhere who has these shims. I was going to see if I could buy a Jeep Dana 35 shim but I couldn't get those either.
 
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A master gear install kit will come with the shims, assuming you are willing to dish out at least $150+ for a decent kit.
 
I just need pinion shims I don't need a whole kit. I can find a whole setup kit.
 
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This seems to be an issue with some installation kits, they only include regular shims that go under the inner bearing race, no slinger shims for under the pinion head (if you need the pinion further away (thinner slinger), you're hosed since there's normally no stock shims to swap out under the race).

Often times a rearend shop will have spare D30 slinger shims that should work with slight modification (or maybe D44 ones could work too). I'd try that route if you find you need a thinner slinger (I got lucky when I did mine and needed to go closer, which was only a matter of keeping the existing slinger and adding a regular shim under the race).


On the installation kits themselves, there's two types: 'Master', and 'Mini' (or basic) kits.
Master kits include all the bearings & seals (and are more $$$), a Mini kit is just the setup shims and some marking compound. Sounds like you just need the mini kit if you don't need bearings & seals.
 
Well I was going to skip on the bearings (they will only be used in 4wd). But I bought the seals, carrier shims, and I got the gear marking compound at a GM dealership...out of all places they had it! I noticed the pinion shim is in fact behind the inner race...what a terrible place. I haven't checked the pattern yet.


Just to make sure...its alright to add shims behind the bearing (next to the slinger shim) but if I need to move the pinion further away I'm screwed?


And this is a stupid question...but can I re-use the crush sleeve to check pattern?...then when the pattern is correct I put the new one on.
 
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No need for a crush sleeve at all when checking the pattern, just don't crank it down very hard and damage the bearings.
 
I ended up ruining the slinger...but I do have a spare so thats a start. Does anyone have an idea the correct shims I need...and if they can go next to the slinger shim??? I got a part number from another site and its Dana 701130x...but I have no idea the dimensions. And its says its for the IFS version. No idea if they are the same...

I kinda wanted them this weekend so I could work on it. Auto part stores are useless. I would check transmission shops but of course they close early on Saturday and they are all closed on Sunday. No one in existence has needed parts on Sundays...
 
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I have another question. I found the pinion depth in the FSM and it says its 2.095" and my pinion is stamped 2.113". That is a difference of 0.018"...that means I have to put a thinner shim in right?
 
That seems like an awfully big difference to me :icon_confused: although for it to be deeper down in the housing (further from the ring gear), it would need a thinner shim yes.

I'd just use the old shims as a start and go from there. 9 times out of ten it'll be within .005-.010 or so and you can then dial it in from there.

Any additional shims should go under the inner bearing race. It'll be a lot easier to swap shims around there than trying to deal with having that big oil slinger shim on the head each time.
 
I bought my shims from randys ring and pinion. You can get just those shims, but you have to call because they don't list them, and they're the same as a jeep dana 35.
 
That seems like an awfully big difference to me :icon_confused: although for it to be deeper down in the housing (further from the ring gear), it would need a thinner shim yes.

I'd just use the old shims as a start and go from there. 9 times out of ten it'll be within .005-.010 or so and you can then dial it in from there.

Any additional shims should go under the inner bearing race. It'll be a lot easier to swap shims around there than trying to deal with having that big oil slinger shim on the head each time.

Yeah thats what I thought. I got some shims today for free. But I think they will only fit behind the pinion bearing because they couldn't find the ones that fit behind the race.

My plan was to actually measure the thickness of the slinger shim and replace it with the same size in smaller shims so it won't get trashed.
 
I finally called justdifferentials.com and ordered the correct shims under the bearing race. Dealership doesn't have these shims and neither does a Dana/Spicer dealer. I wonder where they get these?
 
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