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d35/44 knuckle swap pics


Gui

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 4, 2008
Messages
48
Age
40
City
Nanaimo B.C. Canada since 92
Vehicle Year
1992
Transmission
Automatic
pretty happy how this swap when for a amateur mechanic like me.couldnt of done it without todd,his walkthrough made it pretty strait forward ive been emailing him to see if i could give him some of my pics to help others do it.

notice how similar thw d44 is to the 35 knuckle
PICT1984.jpg


this is the layer of metal that todd was talking about removing to give more room to the greese cup.i ended up using a grinder and cut off approx. 1/8" and went as far as i could with the diameter of the wheel then air Dremal on the backside to give a spot for the metal to bend and break off then i just pounded it off with a cold chisel and a hammer.also used the dremal with a roundhead bit to smooth the sharp edges.it went fast took me about 15 min. per side.
PICT1997.jpg

these are just crappy pics of the work in the snow:icon_confused::annoyed:
PICT2002.jpg

PICT2004.jpg

i do have many more pics but still have to sort them
 
wow nobody give a rats ass,they rather be the first to answer question....id like to know if it would be a good idea to put some of these pics as a reference on todds 35/44 knuckle swap page or something because he missed some info like saying about adding a 9/16 washer to the tie rods when they get reamed on top.and better pics on this layer of metal that he took off.I also did get alot more positive camber from this knuckle which came off a 92 f-150.since i had to take off 4 washer spacers under my springs so now i only have a 4" lift.another handy thing is to use thread tapping oil instead of gear oil cause it doesnt burn. i ended up doing it with a cordless drill, and the ttb still on the truck. i can also post pics of the kinds of dremel bits i used just to make it a safer/idiot proof walkthrough
 
like it use to, it still pulls to the passemger side a bit but i did just align it myself by eye. just set the toe /camber with a torpedo level, didnt have dial scale to do any caster but im getting it professionaly aligned mon and they say they can fix it. i just care about the tire wear and i was told it will always pull to the passenger side because of the crown in the roads.a bit more caster would help but i later plan to do extended radius arm.
 
Well Gui, after seeing this I am going to the junkyard Monday to pick up D44 knuckles. I had seen Todds write up but you cleared up a lot of questions. I have one for you though, where did you get the rear adapter and how much?
 
(info@trailsport4x4.com) phone # 909 370 0144, The spacers are $89.95 per pair.Shipping to Canada via UPs is> $52.34. so $180 for a canuck like me since our dollar is shiot again.
 
the reason for me to do the swap is because i blew my manual hubs while 4bying this winter and still wanted to be in the game since the snow was still comming down.my ranger spindle where also shot and had to take files to the threads and red locktight the spindle nut because they loosened off and stripped the threads,prob caused by putting the 33" tires and decent hard wheeling and not using a torque wrench to tight the last nut..lol the only way to take the nut off was with a torch,cold chisel and large hammer to break the lock tight, which equals to a sad sight.
 
i did not always have to pull the metel off the beam. iirc earlier knuckles have a slightly different offset as well. a beter setup can be had by incorporating some custom cut highsteer arms and regular d44 sas knuckles but its not a reletive bolt o like this.


the washer on the tierod seems obvious, though... there are thicker tierod arms on some as well.


most guys that do shit like this take alot of details for granted...i know i do.


like off set ball joints ect...these things can help get your lift back when combined with the bigger degree adjustable camber bushings...place in oz sells all kinds of that stuff.
 
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