CV joint - preventative maintenance or not?


lostranger2026

Forum Member

Joined
Nov 1, 2025
Messages
22
Points
101
City
Cortez
State - Country
CO - USA
Vehicle Year
1999
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
4WD
Engine
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
So I have a new to me '99 4x4 ranger which probably drove for quite a while with little to no suspension left, the torsion bars were all that was left so to say suspension wise.
My learning journey started with a shot lower ball joint and I'm ending up basically redoing the entire front. As far as I can see it's all original that I'm taking off and I gotta admit, it held up.

Ok, so I got everything off, which was quite the fight in some areas and I'm thinking... I got everything off right now, these CV joints are probably also original. What is wisdom?
27 year old CV joint,180k miles and I don't "see" or "hear" anything wrong. However, I'm also not sure what to look for. All those silly youtube video's are for cars with their wheels on driving around! I don't know what the lifespan is of these CV joints or the grease inside and if there's something I can do to ensure that I won't have to do this anytime soon.

Any ideas, thoughts, feedback here are really appreciated.
 
If the boots are good... no grease slinging around... splines and axle nut threads are good...

Since it's all been apart and you know how to go back in if you need to... run them until they're not good.
 
If the boots are good... no grease slinging around... splines and axle nut threads are good...

Since it's all been apart and you know how to go back in if you need to... run them until they're not good.
Yeah. Get another week out of them.

Just kidding. It's a gamble either way. Replace them now and chances are they would have lasted another 50,000. Leave them and save up some money and they might fail next week. But, it's like that with everything. We drive around every day never thinking the serpentine belt will fail. But, eventually it does. It's up to your comfort level with the risk. You can rack up some money in parts by going down the "Since I'm this far, I might as well..." road. But, you can also save time and aggravation by going one step farther.

There. Wasn't that helpful?
 
You can rack up some money in parts by going down the "Since I'm this far, I might as well..." road.
That's how I spent $1300 on a junkyard 4.0 without any machine work..
 
That's how I spent $1300 on a junkyard 4.0 without any machine work..
I have totally lost track of my swap budget. Pretty sure it's more than reflecting pool repairs by now.
 
Even though I spend lots at times, I'd still rather do this than make a truck payment. Trying to get my wife to understand that is the hard part.
 
Even though I spend lots at times, I'd still rather do this than make a truck payment. Trying to get my wife to understand that is the hard part.
What's the payment on an average-spec new truck these days, about $750? Doesn't take long to justify the parts budget. 😉
 
Even though I spend lots at times, I'd still rather do this than make a truck payment. Trying to get my wife to understand that is the hard part.
What sold my wife was when we bought a car that ended up needing repairs out of the warranty period. Car payments plus repair costs are enough to open a lot of people's eyes.
 
I would say if the boots look good (as in no weather cracking/drying), run 'em.
It's not real hard to pull the shafts out later if need be (which should be a good number of years in the future if they currently still look good).
Aftermarket shafts & boots tend to be inferior to the OEM ones anyway (not sure if OEM boots are still available or not... If they are, you should be able to reboot your existing axles for much cheaper than it is to buy any aftermarket axle).
 
I wish the parts came with the time to replace them.
 

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