Cutting PS lines

[harriw]

Hey folks,

The two flare nuts that connect my PS lines to the steering box are on pretty tight. I'm afraid to go any further with my open end wrenches for fear of rounding them, and don't have any flare-nut wrenches at the moment.

A friend at work suggested just lopping off the steering lines just above the nut and using a 6-point socket on them. Sounds great, but I'm worried about the metal shavings from the dremel falling into the steering box and trashing it. Figures, it had to be those that are stuck. The fitting at the pump popped loose easly...

Valid concern, or should I just fire up the cutting wheel?

Thanks!

-Bill

 

[martin]

Sounds like a plan to me. If you are worried about metal shavings stick a magnet in there afterwards. If you go around the outside of the tube without cutting it completely through you should be able to break it off thereby reducing any contamination.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Just use a pair of tin snips...the lines aren't that thick.

 

[metalmacguyver]

Or just bend it back and forth till it breaks.

 

[harriw]

My original thought was large wire-cutters, but I figured the tubing would be too thick for either those or tin snips... But I'll give 'em a shot if you guys think they'll work.

I've got a friend at work who's loaning me his flare-nut wrenches tomorrow but if they don't help I'll go ahead and cut 'em off with one of these "clean" methods.

Thanks!

-Bill

 

[MountainMike]

A pair of bolt cutters would chop them off no problem.

 

[harriw]

Hey guys,

My neighbor came over to help out, and we wound up cutting both lines with a hack saw blade (there was just no room for a saws-all or dremel cut-off wheel, and neither of us had any bolt cutters. Tin snips and wire cutters weren't strong enough). After that it was easy to break them loose with a socket and breaker bar. He did have a nice flare-nut wrench that fit nicely, but between the wheel, spring, brake line, engine shock, etc., I just couldn't get any leverage on it to break things loose. The breaker bar worked like a charm once the lines were cut. I'm sure the 3-days worth of PB blaster treatment didn't hurt either.

When I put the new lines in, I intentionally left the return hose free, and hanging over the drip pan, and fired up the engine for a second. That blew all the old fluid right out - presumably along with any remaining shavings in there. I then attached the return line to the pump, re-filled, and bled normally.

The steering seems much smoother now. So I'll keep my fingers crossed and watch for leaks...

Thanks for all your help guys!

-Bill

 

[Doom's Day Custom]

next time try using a blow torch and hit it with PB blaster and make sure you get it cherry red and than hit it PB blaster and do this a couple of time and when its hot don't hit it PB blaster just put a wrench on it and it should come right off !!! This method has worked wonders for me with power steering and brake lines!!!!!!

 

[harriw]

Yeah, I think I'm going to have to break down and buy myself a torch one of these days. PB Blaster, a BFH, and a few tricks have gotten me this far but I recall many times when a torch would have been handy. Especially up here in the rust belt. What's the general idea with a torch? Heat up the side you want to expand? Or just get the whole dang thing to expand/contract, hoping that will crack it loose? Do you aim for red hot, or just toasty? Do you try to crack it loose while still hot? Or wait for it to cool again first?

In this case though I think I'd have been afraid to use a torch anyway due to the proximity of the tire and fuel lines, and general lack of access.

That's another question I've always wondered about - PB Blaster isn't flamable? I've always figured I'd have to use one or the other exclusively (either torch or PB).

Thanks again guys!

-Bill