Cut and Turn

[MAranger]

I happened upon a set of D35 beams and arms for free. I've been reading whatever I can find about cutting and turning.

I want to run 3" of lift, to match the coils I have. With some simple trig applied to the length of the beam, and the change in coil height, I have decided I need to build 6 degrees of camber correction into the beams.

This was using the length from the pivot to the coil seat center as the hypotenuse, and the coil heights as the opposite and relating them to give a sine. Discovering the change in the sines of each relationship, and then inversing the sine, I arrived at a little over 6 degrees.

I'm thinking I can make one cut into but not severing the beam, and heat and bend it. I want to make my cuts somewhat close to the pivot bushing. I can monitor how far it has been bent by measuring the gap being opened up.

Is this all that is required for camber correction? I'm somewhat leary to believe it is this simple. I know that lift kits drop the pivot down, and with a taller coil, the entire beam is dropped in hopefully the same position just vertically displaced x inches.

I don't see my simple cut offering a drop matching the increased height of the coils. Will it be necessary to completely sever the arm, and incorporate x inches of drop AND 6 degrees of camber seperation? Or will a cut and spread be sufficient? Of course the alterations are gonna get plated.

If you guys see any flukes in my reasoning, pick on me for it. I just finished my freshman year as an engineering student. I feel I am going to need to build a jig where I could bolt the knuckle flat and vertical, and figure from there. I better go buy an angle finder, too. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Zachalanche]

I'm thinking about doing a similar thing soon. I think companies that sell modified beams cut them near the ball joints. I found this thread on doing that. hopefyully it is helpful.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=229104

 

[kunar]

something to read if you havent seen it already...

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/zimmerman_ttb.htm

 

[4x4junkie]

Yes, modding the beam by moving the lower balljoint outward is a far better way of doing it than cutting it near the pivot. It also maintains the length of the beam better.

 

[Zachalanche]

correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you have to rotate the diff slightly if you turn the beam near the ball joints.

 

[canyoncritter]

I would cut them at the lower balljoint, and push the lower ball joint out to correct camber.

4inches of lift is about the max using a 0o camber bushing and the stock piviot brackets and cutting the beam at the lower BJ.Or the axle shaft will bind up on the spindle snout at full turn lock and pop the C clip of the shaft if you try to push the BJ out to far.

you will need a way of correcting caster as well.And you will have to watch the front drive shaft for clearance on the stock radius arm crossmember if you mod. the stock stubby radius arms to correct caster.
The STX highrider radius arm cross memeber could be a option if your going to use the stock radius arms and mod them.depending on your spring lenth etc
Or of course ext radius arms,and get the stock r/a crossmember out of the way.

 

[MAranger]

I have 3 degree alignment bushings. i have set them at zero degrees.

I have RA drop brackets. I'd like to extend the arms but keep the doughnut bushings. Whichever way I go I will accomodate for caster change.

Distancing the lower ball joint out will make the stub shaft u joint perform at an angle. And would pull on the stub like canyon critter said.

If the cut was done by the pivot, the shafts would stay unchanged. I don't think i'll generate enough travel with 3" of lift to have interference at the beam window.

Which end is subjected to higher loads when driving? Which spot would be stronger?

 

[4x4junkie]

Do it at the balljoint. Stronger (maintains better integrity of the beam), causes fewer axle slip-spline problems, less narrowing of the track width, gives you more clearance, and on and on and on and on (plus, it just looks better too).

Binding of the u-joint occurs only if you go too far with it like canyoncritter explained. 3" lift isn't going to present an issue.

 

[canyoncritter]

if your only going for 3inches, you wont have any problems with the stub axle pulling against the c-clip.

you can press them for up to 5inches but you have to be spot on.That's why I said 4inches is about the max.gives a little bit a fudge factor.this is with using a 0o bushing.

With 3 inches you will have no problems at all.So do them at the lower BJ alot less problems in the long run.

I have the autofab kit on my truck,thats done at the lower BJ's and have had the 4wd locked in and gotten up to 60mph and not had any problems with the stub shafts at a angle,also have had the wheels fully cranked, climbing up hillsides and no problems with poping the stub clip's.

I would also plate the back side of the passenger side beam in, to fully box it.That beam like's to rip right where the is no longer boxed.if used hard.


opening the axle shaft window in the passenger side beam is no big deal and rather easy. As long as you dont go crazy, it won't harm the beam in any way.

nothing wrong with keeping the R/a's on bushings if you ext them for a multi use truck.if your racing in the desert, heims can last longer.

 

[MAranger]

No desert around me, north shore massachusetts.

Multi use is what I'm going for. I want to get this thing to flex a little. I'm going to invest in some quality shocks and F250 mounts once the beams are situated and I can get a travel number. I hope to net about 6 inches of usable up travel. I want nicely damped travel. This truck flogs over stuff with stock springs.

you reckon 3/16 plate is what I should use for the fill in wedges, and reinforcing plates?

 

[canyoncritter]

I dont see why 3/16's wont work.

just make sure to fill the gap then plate back over the cuts.if that makes sense

 

[TireIron]

definitly fill the gaps, grind all the faces smooth, and plate the hell out of the beams while youre at it.

 

[CopyKat]

something to read if you havent seen it already...

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/zimmerman_ttb.htm

Don't read that!!! that's the wrong way to go about it. Just jacks up the suspension even worse.

I agree the ball joint cut is the way to go. Boxing, plating and trussing will ensure your beams stay together.

Best thing i did to mine.

 

[59flatbedford]

well i know this is an old thread but figured id bring it back up instead of starting new.

So if you cut and turn it at the ball joints to account for 3 inches of lift will that cause problems elsewher. In the thread on the explorer forum it said that they had to rotate the diff just a little. Is this alway the case or does it depend on how its done. and if you do have to turn the diff how do you go about doing this. Also in the article in the tech library is said that they had to modify the stub shaft retainer, is this true if cut at the ball joints as there is no mention of it here. Sorry if these questions where answered in the thread but i just want to be crystal clear.

 

[MAranger]

the dif was rotated on that build to lessen the operating angle of the shafts, so it would not pop the c clip when turning. IIRC, he drilled holes in the correct spots to account for the angle change and welded washers to strengthen and cover the original bolt holes. I haven't seen any solid number but consensus is not to go past corrections for 3 inches at the b.j.'s.