Cupping tires after alignment!

[nismotunedgtr]

I just did the alignment on my 1992 ranger STX 4x4. Everything was perfectly in spec except caster. Wasn't too worried about caster ....

I put a brand new set of 31x10.5 r15 Wild Spirit RVT's on it.

The wear I'm seeing after just 1500 miles in on the inside front, isn't really cupping. It's more of a feathered wear only on the inside... It's enough to see it from the side already.

Now here are all the parts I have into the front end.

-Moog ball joints. All four
-Moog center link
-Moog tie rod ends and sleeves
-Moog -+4* balljoint adjusters
-Set of new 2" lift springs
-Motorcraft E350 shocks
-Front axle u joints
-National wheel bearings.

Everything has under 3k miles on it. I'm assuming this is a negative camber problem. Not toe because the outside edge where studs would go is not worn at all. But like I said before. The alignment was spot on when I did it the day before I put the tires on. I did it on a Hunter machine that puts a transponder on each wheel.

I'm lost and wrecking this set of tires that were still $460 at cost!


Thank guys!

 

[railman]

what size tires did you have on before the new tires? Cause goin from stock ( 235/75/15's ) to 31's would be a major change to geometry....even goin from worn out street 31's to a more aggressive new tire is still quite a change...

you should have had it aligned with the new tires mounted....

I'm sure if you rotate the tires now and get a new alignment it will be ok

l8r, John

 

[c0ld]

Yeah, like Railman said you want to put the new tires on before you do the alignment.

 

[4x4junkie]

It would only be a major change in geometry if he also used new (different offset) wheels.

Feathering the insides like that is a classic symptom of it being toed-out.

Take it back and have them redo it again.

 

[Captain Ledd]

It would only be a major change in geometry if he also used new (different offset) wheels.

Feathering the insides like that is a classic symptom of it being toed-out.

Take it back and have them redo it again.

X2.

 

[nismotunedgtr]

I did the alignment, the day after I did all the front end work and I put a set of burnt up 235's on it with stock wheels so I didn't wear the new ones on the 100 mile trip to the place I did the alignment.

So the wheels are Cragars with the 31" mud tires apposed to the burnt 235's on stock rims.

Stock tires were actually 215's

So I guess I'm going to put my 1.5" spring spacers in and re-align it.

UGH

Here's a pic btw

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/nismotunedgtr/IMG_0254.jpg?t=1259709061

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah because you changed the wheels too, you may have affected it (tires that are worn unevenly can lead to an improper alignment as well).

Get everything together exactly how you want it, then have them realign it.

If you're trying to save your tires, put your stock ones back on for the trip, but have your new ones in the bed. When you get there, just swap them on and then drive it into the garage (or maybe you can get them to swap them over for you).

 

[nismotunedgtr]

I was going to put the 235's on for the trip and put my 31's on before I align it again.

It's my boss's other shop so I will have to make the trip up some Saturday and redo it.

Any alignment specs I should use instead of the factory ones with the 31's?

 

[4x4junkie]

Factory specs are fine, but if there's an issue with the suspension that you can't get it to those specs, then you will need to fix that first (you said something the caster was still off).

 

[nismotunedgtr]

Yeah the caster was the only thing I didn't bother with. It was close enough and doesn't wear the tires. And it doesn't pull so I'm not worried. It looks like it's negative camber if you look at it from the front. So I'm going to try the spring spacers and check it. Blah