Crush sleeve eliminator set up on a 8.8

[Hagan]

Ok, I am deciding to set up my own ring and pinion. I got 5.13's with all new bearings and shims. And, I picked up a crush sleeve eliminator kit. So, let me get this straight. To set pinion depth you use a shim behind the inner bearing (so if it needs to be changed then the bearing needs to be pulled off) and thicker the farther away the pinion gets from the ring gear and the thinner the closer the pinion gets to the ring gear.

So, with a crush sleeve eliminator none of the shims provided should effect pinion depth? All I do is put the bearings on and install the crush sleeve eliminator and tighten the nut (how much???) and if it doesn't get tight then I have to install a shim. Then put it back together with a thicker shim and tighten it and if its too loose I need a thinner shim. And eventually I will find the right shim where the pinion nut will be tight, and the desired preload is set?

Then I can continue with pinion depth, backlash, and carrier preload?

 

[martin]

Err, no. It must have come with instructions. You always set the pinion depth first though.

 

[Hagan]

How in the world do you set pinion depth when the carrier is not in the axle housing???

You can't move the carrier only left and right (i'm sure you know)...so I would have to put the bearings in, the pinion, the carrier and carrier bearings then tighten the pinion nut and check the gear pattern? And if its too far away I need to move it closer and farther if its too close.

 

[Captain Ledd]

...so I would have to put the bearings in, the pinion, the carrier and carrier bearings then tighten the pinion nut and check the gear pattern?

yuppers. Well you don't really crank down the nut, but yes.

 

[Hagan]

Oh I see. But how do you adjust the preload?

 

[Captain Ledd]

Oh I see. But how do you adjust the preload?

Assemble everything and turn it with an inch-pound wrench. Don't recall off the top of my head what the numbers are you should be hitting, it's not alot though.

 

[dangerranger83]

Its a kind of trial and error thing when not using a crash sleeve. If its wrong you take it all apart and adjust as needed.

 

[Hahnsb2]

AFTER you get the pinion depth and backlash correct, then work on pinion bearing preload. Use an in/lb toque wrench to measure the pre-load WITHOUT the carrier/ring gear installed. Once you find the correct shims for correct preload, assemble everything for one last time. And with a crush sleeve eliminator, fewer shims=more preload.

 

[4x4junkie]

Like Hahns mentions, setting the pinion preload is one of the LAST steps you should be doing.
When setting the depth, all that is needed is to tighten the pinion nut lightly (no shims or crush sleeve in place) until the correct rotational preload is set on the bearings, and then run you run your gear pattern checks. Only AFTER having established the proper pinion depth via a good gear pattern check should you then set the final pinion bearing preload.

 

[Captain Ledd]

AFTER you get the pinion depth and backlash correct, then work on pinion bearing preload. Use an in/lb toque wrench to measure the pre-load WITHOUT the carrier/ring gear installed. Once you find the correct shims for correct preload, assemble everything for one last time. And with a crush sleeve eliminator, fewer shims=more preload.

Dammit, I knew I'd get it backwards. I could have sworn it was with everything installed.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

And as a tip, a good place to start with the crush sleeve eliminator is to measure the thickness of your old crush sleeve with a set or calipers. Make your shim stack for your crush sleeve eliminator the same thickness and go from there. It should be pretty damn close.

 

[Hagan]

Thanks for the help guys! This gives me a very good start. And I would have no known the preload was checked without the ring/carrier installed...but that makes sense now.