Crossmember removal

[Natedog]

Here is the Xmember that I am using. I am using it because it fits completely inside the frame, and if you flip it so that the big "hump" is on the drivers' side, you get monster front driveshaft clearance, unlike the Xplorer one, which is pretty close in clearance to a stock Xmember. To remove mine from the donor, I simply unbolted it and knocked it back to clear the cat, then simply twisted it out of the frame.

Now, I did weld a plate onto mine to hold the tranny mount, but that is because I am NOT using a stock tranny. I am using a T-18, and it is a heck of alot taller than a stock one. BTW, THIS particular Xmember came from an A4LD BII, and it is identical to the one in my TK-5 BII.

This is the one that I'm about to swap in....early style up through 1985 or 1986. 1987 is the crappy under the frame rails with extra rubber bushings for more xfer case slop. Would be nice to go under my catalyst, but this is the x-member that I already have saved for this swap and gets a little more ground clearance. Also never seen a catalyst smashed off Ranger while wheeling although I'm sure it's possible.....this is not my extreme 4x4 wheeler.

Cross-members are same for a4ld and manual trans on all RBV's that I've seen. IIRC the tranny mount bushing is too.

BTW, great idea for more driveshaft clearance!

early 90's explorer is the one to get. i dont know if theres any rangers that have the same setup but thats the one im using. it doesnt hang under the frame but it still covers up the exhaust. you'll have to grind out the rivets for the brackets that are there, and drill one hole in the frame rail.

What size hole did you drill? That frame is pretty hard drilling...good quality steel.

 

[Fairlaniac]

Finished!

I found a '91 Explorer cross member, the "L" shaped one. I used the 2 bolt stud/bracket on the passenger side after I ground out the rivets to the original x-member bracket. The driver side I drilled one 15/32"" hole and used a 7/16 grade 8 bolt. I decided to use up a new trans mount I had laying around or my old '95 F150. I had to use the carbide burr and elongate the two mounting slots in the new x-member but it's all in and fitting well.

Thanks to all the folks that replied.

 

[Natedog]

Here is the Xmember that I am using. I am using it because it fits completely inside the frame, and if you flip it so that the big "hump" is on the drivers' side, you get monster front driveshaft clearance, unlike the Xplorer one, which is pretty close in clearance to a stock Xmember. To remove mine from the donor, I simply unbolted it and knocked it back to clear the cat, then simply twisted it out of the frame........THIS particular Xmember came from an A4LD BII, and it is identical to the one in my TK-5 BII.

Yours has two holes on the passenger side? Just rechecked mine and it has one hole per side. IIRC it came off 1983 Ranger shortbed 4x4, will this clear my factory two-stage catalyst? Looks really close up under the passenger side floor to fit in there....

 

[Natedog]

I found a '91 Explorer cross member, the "L" shaped one. I used the 2 bolt stud/bracket on the passenger side after I ground out the rivets to the original x-member bracket. The driver side I drilled one 15/32"" hole and used a 7/16 grade 8 bolt....

X2................. I bought same crossmember at junkyard and am installing now.

Problem is the stamped metal guard for the fuel reservoir (inside driver's frame rail) the forward lower mounting bolt and tab are in the way of my new X-member. Looks like I can do a bunch of cutting and notching on this mounting tab and then it will clear the new x-member, but then the rear edge of the member is still in the way of the blind nut for the guard. I could then notch the x-member to clear the blind nut too.

If I cut off the forward lower mounting bracket it would all be alot easier, but then the guard would tend to pivot on the two rear (upper and lower) mounting bolts kinda like a door hinge. These two holes are offset vertically from each other but only by about 3/4" which is not ideal to prevent movement and/or vibration. There are a couple other existing holes in the top of the frame rail and I could drill a corresponding hole in the top of the bracket to add a bolt, but the plastic fuel reservoir and lines are way too close to get a bolt and nut in there!! Drilling a replacement third hole on the bottom is a problem since there isn't much room here either (due to wires and fuel lines) and not much bracket left to bolt to if I trim the bottom part that is hitting the x-member.

What did y'all do???

 

[Fairlaniac]

Mine just laid into place like it was born there. Mine is a '89 2.3 Supercab 4x2, maybe things are different?

 

[feellnfroggy]

To the OP, I would replace all your rubber bushings, with some good polyurethane bushings. a little pricey but worth it. On my 92 I didnt have any problems with the crossmember mount. But then again it was a florida truck, we dont rust unless your on the beach and even then not likely. Someone posted about a good homemade brew of breakfree, maybe give that a shot.

 

[Natedog]

Mine just laid into place like it was born there. Mine is a '89 2.3 Supercab 4x2, maybe things are different?

Ahhh, the 4x2 doesn't have the xfer case skidplate, but is the same otherwise in this area of the frame. They both use this guard at least in 1987 and 1988....not sure about 1989.

Waited a bit for replies and then went back to work....bolted the passenger side in nice and tight, left the trans mount nuts off, and used a BFH to tap the x-member reall good several times (straight up) so that it would settle into the proper position, drilled a small pilot (test) hole for the left side x-member to frame bolt....and am getting ready to use my Dremel with a carbide burr to open up my drilled hole slightly.

Haven't tried fitting the fuel reservoir guard again yet, but it's going to be close. Turns out that I had the left side of the x-member slightly too far rearward....so it may clear but if it does, it's going to be very close!

Did you put this fuel reservoir guard back on yours?

 

[Natedog]

Ended up with a 1/2" diameter hole for the left side mount. Had to remove the x-member to install this bolt, then install x-member, and then install right side bolts! This must be why the factory left side frame rail hole is slotted....to allow the longer than necessary bolt with the tab on the head to be inserted and tilted into position when the x-member is already bolted to the right side frame rail. This bolt could be cut down about 3/8" and still have two threads past the nut when tight. I may trim this later as it definitely is something for trail obstacles to get hung up on and then I shouldn't need to install the x-member in the above mentioned manner.

Looks like I'm going to drill a 3/8" hole about 7/8" from the front edge of the fuel reservoir guard and then use my Sawzall to cut from the front edge back to the outer diameter of the hole...thus creating a notch with stress relief (and a purty rounded end) that should fit around the x-member with enough room that it's still easy to remove/install and maintain the guard's strength.

 

[Natedog]

Update:

Very worthy mod....my truck feels a bit more sure-footed over high speed stutter bumps and my transmission stick and xfer don't move around nearly as much during hard on/off power situations even with my posi hookin the traction! Thanks to the OP and everybody else for posting this! + reps!