Crazy Vacuum Issues need help!

[confederatebadboy]

**UPDATE** & NEED HELP! Crazy Vacuum Issues need help!

**UDATE** Well I updated this last night starting with the Ok I'm stumped in BOLD BELOW but I'm updating again this morning. Looking this morning I'm starting to think the previous owner jerked a bunch of junk out and never replaced it. I can't find the EVAP canister nor anything that evidently hooked up to it. I've searched the truck over and unless I'm totally blind its not there! Can some please, please snap a few pictures of the canister and the lines attached to it and where they actually go? I've searched the internet but can't seem to find anything.
Ok I'm stumped. Just recently removed intake and cleaned out all the build up carbon that had closed everything off, reattached a couple vacuum lines that were capped off, cleaned the EGR valve and a few other things. Before doing all this there was pinging/chattering of the vales and some loss of power. I've corrected that problem but now I'm having some other problems. Truck wants to stall when coming to a dead stop, inconsistent idle speeds, still has loss of power and probably worse than before and now when running the AC when on a pull or real heavy on the gas the ac will stop blowing from the vents and go to blowing out the defrost. Once the pull is over or don't have to be heavy on the gas (basically when level out or let off gas) the ac will return to blowing out the vents. Its like it looses vacuum that controls the vent switch. During this time it really has a loss of power too! Any ideas on what could be going on??? I haven't been able to find any actual leaks anywhere. It kind of seems like something that supplies vacuum isn't working properly and causing it to rob vacuum from somewhere else or something??? I have no idea any advice is GREATLY APPRECIATED!
Okay and thanks guys for your replies. I just noticed them as I was looking in my email for replies and evidently I don't have that set up correctly as I hadn't gotten any and I finally decided to check the forum. So let me be a little more thorough explaining.

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What originally started my investigating was three things. The valves pinging/chattering, the line in the picture where circled was cut and capped off with a little grey wire nut and what I thought was a leaking water pump which actually ended up being the T'stat leaking. So that lead me into removing the throttle body, EGR valve, fuel injectors, the intake manifold and the spark plugs, water pump and t'stat. It was one of those deals why not while I was in there check and clean this and that and etc..... I cleaned the EGR valve which was pretty dirty, completely cleaned all the carbon build up and clogged port inside the manifold, replaced the spark plugs (wires looked fine), installed new t'stat, installed new water pump, installed new fuel injectors, cleaned IAC and replaced a couple bad vacuum hoses. After doing all that and putting'er back together the pinging/chattering that was present on a pull or incline was corrected. However, new symptoms had occurred that were not a problem before hand. I now noticed a MAJOR loss of power, 60%-70% of the time it stalls when coming to a stop and if it doesn't stall it comes dang near close to it, the idle is rough and inconsistent, when pulling out it spits and sputters and almost dies so I have to ride the clutch and pump the gas to keep it running, while accelerating it is very hesitant and extremely slow to respond, while trying to accelerate as well as pulling on an incline the ac switches from blowing out the vents to blowing out the defrost and once I let off the pedal and/or after leveling out and under less strain the ac returns back to blowing out the vents. I haven't been able to find any vacuum leaks. I replaced the hoses that were cracked and bad and the others are OK with no cracks. I check the PCV valve and clean it and it does rattle when you shake it which as I understand indicates it is ok and should be functioning properly. I didn't mention before (I don't think) that I purchased the truck fairly recently and after purchasing it noticed the pinging/chattering and the capped off vacuum hose. The truck ran good or seemed to when the hose was capped off all except for the pinging/chattering on a pull or load. Like I said I have corrected that however I have all these other problems. I don't feel like it is a compression issue as it ran fine up until I corrected all I mentioned above and it was only after correcting those issues these others developed. The only code I get now is

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I'm assuming and I feel fairly certain that the man that had it before myself must have been experiencing the, stalling, lack of power, hesitation in acceleration and etc. which is most likely when he capped the vacuum hose off that is shown the the red circle in the picture. When I unhook the vacuum line that was plugged off with the wire nut that is now fixed nothing really happens other than slight difference in idle speed and I "think" can't remember for certain but seems like if I put my thumb over the line it spits and sputters a little but doesn't stall completely out. I will double check that tomorrow. One thing I didn't check was the vacuum line that hooks into the top of the EGR valve. There is barely and suction there at all.. There is some but you can barely feel it and have to pay close attention to it or you could easily miss it. That may be the way it is supposed to be not sure please share if you know. I will check the other things you guys mentioned tomorrow and see what I can find out. I will also look about the check valve issue mentioned too. Hopefully I have maybe described a little better what I have done and what the results are than I did originally. Thanks again and I appreciate any and all ideas and inputs that anyone can offer and suggest. I will look into all of them and let you guys know when I get it fixed and what exactly I found the problem to be. Thanks again. Oh and I should now get instant email notifications as I selected that option so I will be a little quicker to respond

 

[Mark_88]

Not sure exactly what's wrong, but vacuum does drop under load or acceleration so that is partly right what you're thinking...vacuum is less strong in those cases.

You should have a small plastic ball somewhere on the passenger side of the engine...some sort of vacuum equalizer from what I recall reading on here...one of those great explanations that I forgot after I read it...but that might be part of the problem...if it is missing or not working properly.

Sounds like you may also have a PCV problem...and can't remember if it was your issue previously that we were working on or someone else...but crud buildup in the EGR is a partial sign of EGR problems...it isn't opening properly (using vacuum at idle) if at all or possibly isn't actually closing properly due to crud buildup around the valve.

If the EGR opens or remains open after acceleration it can cause poor acceleration or rough running as it draws hot air through the intake and can cause a lean condition.

Did you try pulling codes at any point? That might give you an indication of what is happening...worth a shot to start off and see what it throws if anything...then let the speculation begin...

 

[tomw]

The vacuum drops, and the check valve that is supposed to close is not closing. The vacuum in the 'ball shaped' reservoir is leaking past the check valve when the intake vacuum drops. You can get a check valve and put it into the line leading to the reservoir, or find out where the factory check valve is located and replace it.
You report an inconsistent idle speed and possible stalling when you come to a stop. That could be caused by a vacuum leak, or a cracked or broken vacuum hose, or a MAP sensor that is flaky or an IAC that needs cleaning or replacement.
When you start the engine, cold, does the idle run > 1k rpms and slowly drop down to ~700 when warm? The IAC is supposed to raise the idle on a cold engine, and lower it as the coolant warms. The IAC also is to bump the idle speed when the A/C is engaged. You should note the idle rpm, and then turn on the A/C. When the clutch engages, the load should be handled and the idle speed kept pretty steady. If the IAC does not do the previous two things, it is a likely suspect in your wandering idle.
tom

 

[RonD]

Yes ^^^ +1

I would do a compression test.
remove 1 spark plug from each cylinder for the test.
Disconnect both coils
prop throttle open or push down on gas pedal when cranking during the test.

'96 2.3l engine should run 9.4:1 compression ratio, which makes it prone to pinging/knocking.
9.4:1 at sea level should produce 170-175psi compression when new, even on older engine you would expect above 165psi.

When was the last timing belt change?
Stretched belt or tired tensioner will lower compression.

Compression = power.

If you don't have a compression tester then get a $25 vacuum gauge, good tool for any engine.
Good read here on how to use it and how to read results: http://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html

Your lack of power could be low compression from valve timing(timing belt) or a partially clogged exhaust, if exhaust can't get out easily the new air/fuel mix can't get in, so power drops as RPMs increase.
Vacuum gauge can test for that.

 

[tomw]

One thing I didn't check was the vacuum line that hooks into the top of the EGR valve. There is barely and suction there at all.

That is good, as the EGR is not used at idle. OTOH, it is bad, because the slight vacuum will slowly open the EGR valve or slightly take it off its seat, and feed the engine EG when it should not. You may have a leaking EGR solenoid valve. Vacuum is fed to the EGR valve diaphragm and opens the valve to a point spec'd by the computer. The solenoid applies the vacuum. There was{maybe still is} a second valve that held the vacuum and thus applied the EGR at a fixed setting, generally while at cruise speeds.
If one or the other is leaking, you won't get 'cruise' EGR and will thus have pinging at cruise, OR you will{may} get a lumpy, unstable idle as the EGR at idle can cause misfire.
Lack of power might be the initial ignition timing, cam timing, or fuel shortage. I dismember the vintage, but you likely have no distributor, so the 1st is a machs-nix. Cam timing can be affected as mentioned just previously, or could have been off from the install if you have had power problems all along. Fuel pressure and delivery volume should be checked to make sure you have adequate fuel supply. A failing MAF, also if dirty, can cause stumble and hesitation on acceleration, as could low fuel pressure or flow.
tom