Craptastic stall at highway speed

[Sevensecondsuv]

And I wouldn't get rid of the truck. Given my experience with Rangers, it's probably some stupid little 20 dollar fix that's tough to figure out but once fixed you'll get another 100,000 miles out of it without much else going wrong.

 

[JibbaJibba56]

How hard of a fix? I don't have a ton of time or a ton of tools on hand

 

[Sevensecondsuv]

If I remember right, it's 3 little allen screws from the underside of the fuel rail that holds it on. On my 90 it required removing the upper intake and removing the fuel rail. You'll want to make sure you have new injector O-rings because you'll probably trash the old ones getting the rail off.

On second thought, your 2000 might have a returnless fuel system, it which case the fuel pressure regulator is totally different.

In any case though, you should test the fuel pressure at the rail and get back to us.

 

[JibbaJibba56]

if this thing is only doing this at idle, and i can recover using the accelerator, do you think it can make a 900 mile freeway drive. I can honestly say right now that I am out of time with this thing. Anyone in minneapolis want to buy this truck? I'll fly home if thats the case

 

[JibbaJibba56]

oh and whats this regulator look like?

 

[JibbaJibba56]

Okay and one more thing before I take off for parts. If I unplug the MAF should the engine die? I only ask because if it is that regulator, no one around has one, and I just checked for vacuum leaks again and decided to pull MAF plug to see if that does anything. Engine slows a little and then steady idle. With it in initially engine kinda perrrumm perrumm perrumm at a steady beat then flattens out a little but still sounds violent. Shouldn't the engine die on idle with a MAF unplugged?

 

[Sevensecondsuv]

No, it will just run in limp mode. It should run when the MAF is unplugged.

Also note that I didn't tell you to replace the Fuel pressure regulator. I suggested testing the fuel pressure. If it's high we'll then be able to suggest a remedy. If not, then you've ruled out one of many things that could be causing problems.

You've got to use a methodical approach to finding these problems. Replacing things randomly based on the first thing that comes to mind will get you nowhere but a big bill at Autozone. Research all the possible causes of your problem and then eliminate them one by one until you find the real cause.

I suggest reading in a haynes or chiltons manual to learn more about the FPR.

 

[JibbaJibba56]

WOW! I may have touched a nerve. I was just asking additional info. I did get it checked I just wanted to cover all bases before I went to the parts store to get things checked not do 15 trips there and back. Thank you for the help though, you were right about the pressure. We even unplugged that valve after checking and it ran the same with or without it. Problem is that there isn't one to be found around town. Still leaves me at square one. I suggest next time you think ahead and see if that could be the problem if it is fixable and if any other item is related BEFORE you bite some body's head off. Nothing personal, I just don't feel I need to be treated as such when I am seeking help. I too am an engineer, and my methods of investigate all and plan ahead have provided for me enormously in time, effort, and cash.

 

[KELLY88]

I don't think he was biting your head off, just making point. Anyway I wanna go back to something you said earlier. You purposely plugged your EGR valve? A bad EGR valve can cause all the problems you're describing.

 

[JibbaJibba56]

Yeah i had the codes read that valve works! It was all just a hunch so I plugged after reading another post about those things. If it ran better then the valve was bad. but that running better was only for like half a day then it starting going ape crap again. 7second is definitely right about the FPR, I just cannot find one anywhere in town. All stores come up with the same not yet available.
To complete my DPFE thought I left it unplugged for the code scan. That code came out. We then cleared that one and plugged the DPFE back in and no code for it so that has to be working good. This thing is just dumping fuel in. I would have never gotten this FPR solution had I not had the windows down. One thing bothers me though about this though, the computer still says system too lean as opposed to rich. What is that about? I am gonna go ahead and keep searching for that regulator, smells to me like I need some junkyard parts

 

[Sevensecondsuv]

No, you didn't hit any nerves. Sorry if I sounded mad, I wasn't. I was just trying to help you. The only way you'll solve this is by a methodical elimination of causes.

I've been in your position before and experience has taught me that there is only one successful method to fixing these things.

If no one has a FPR in stock, your truck might not have one. I don't know very much about the specifics of a returnless style fuel system, which is why I suggested reading about it in a manual.

None the less, you should still test / get tested the fuel pressure and report back to us. That would help us help you.