Crankshaft position sensor

[peganit2]

Short version. Can the CKP from an apparently later model 4.0 be modified to work on an earlier one?

Longer version. I bought a 97 Ranger with a 4.0 OHV with a broken crank, at the snought. I bought a crank kit and a new damper AND a CKP for that exact model, since it was not on the engine either when I bought the truck. I put it all together and it wouldn't start, no spark. I tried a lot of things over a couple days and did some research. A lot of things was telling me the CKP was the culprit, but I checked it at least three times.

While looking for the owners manual, I found the original CKP in the glovebox. It was broken and different than the one I ordered and had installed. (the new one bolted on)

In a moment of frustration and wth, I removed the new CKP and bolted on the old one and it fired right up and runs great! I was pleased.

The old one has the plastic molded pointer, the new one is the one with the steel timing pointer, and the locating pin. It appears MUCH closer to the damper than the old one, so maybe it's just a gap issue?

The old one won't last I'm sure since it's barely hanging on and I ordered the new one through the mail for a VERY good price so if I can use it I'd be happy.

Thanks in advance!

PS I'm a toolmaker. I can make it fit and get the gap right, I just don't know if the electronics are compatible, and I don't want to modify it and have it not work and not be returnable.

 

[RonD]

Yes, gap is very important.
1997 Ranger would have the 4.0l OHV engine
2001 and up Rangers would have the 4.0l SOHC engine
These engines are not related so parts are not interchangeable

As far as a know a CKP(crank position) sensor would be the same from 1990 to 2000 on the 4.0l OHV Ranger engines.

These rarely fail so wrecking yard CKP would also be fine to use, assuming no damage.

The electrics should be compatible, as far as I know Ford stayed with Hall Effect CKP sensors in all Rangers.
The CPS(cam position sensor) was changed from Hall Effect to Variable Reluctance sensor(VRS) in the late 1990's, these are not interchangeable because of computer parameters.

Hall Effect sensors can be tested with voltmeter set for AC Voltage, if sensor is close enough to the spinning "tone wheel" it will generate about 1v AC
Tone wheel has one "tooth" every 10 degrees, so 36 "teeth"(360 degree = full circle), but 1 "tooth" is removed, this missing tooth(gap) goes past the CKP sensor when piston #1 is at TDC.
So where the CKP sensor is, the gap to tone wheel, AND where it is left or right is also important to get correct spark timing.

 

[peganit2]

excellent ronD.

I'm theorising that it's so close that it's reading the "valleys" also...

And I think I've been checking it with DC voltage...

 

[peganit2]

2:1 you're from Michigan RonD.

Or California

 

[RonD]

Grew up in Riverside, Calif., southern cal

Live in Canada now

 

[alex881129]

Hello Guys. First of all sorry if this post is in the wrong place.
I hope somebody can help me with my problem.
I have a 1993 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4 cylinders .
The problem is that when I try to start it, it will only crank but won't start.
If I spray Gasoline by the Air Filter area it will start and won't have any problems at all. I Could spend the whole day driving around perfectly. But any time I turn it off I have to spray gasoline again to be able to start it again.
I tested the injectors connectors with my multi meter and there is no voltage when it cranks.
I have read some forums where people says it could be the Crank Position Sensor , and I have read other that says that could be the Cam Shaft Position Sensor. My truck is "Federal" and I have also read that it doesn't have the Cam Shaft Position Sensor, only Crank Position sensor. (I don't know if that's correct)
It is supposed to be located under the Timing Belt Cover, but I am having troubles trying to get this cover off. I have took off the water pump pulley, the air compressor and I think I need to take the power steering bracket off too, But I can't find the third bolt that is holing it , I have tried to find pictures online but I still have no results.
Please if some body have had this kind of problems let me know how to get access to the crank position sensor, or how to remove that cover.
Thank you very much in advance.
Alex.

 

[Spott]

Don't post the same thing in 3 different places. Also, don't post your separate problem on the end of someone else's problem.

One problem per thread is simplest to understand and track.