crankshaft gear removal

[scrapper]

What will I need to remove the crankshaft gear? Its surrounded by a aluminum fin, and it looks really tight to get a puller on it. What is the easiest tool to work? Thanks for all the help so far.

 

[scotts90ranger]

That can be a bear... I've had troubles with those... I think my last successful one without damaging everything but the crank (I needed the crank, someone had used a pipe wrench to turn the crank without the crank pulley on it at some point then pressed on the pulley over the compressed part, then it got rusty on top of that) was with a propane torch and PB Blaster, a small pry bar and a lot of patience...

 

[tomw]

I guess it all depends on where it was used. When I did the cam belt, by mileage instead of years, after 20+, the cam sprocket cam off by hand. It slid easily, as did the damper/pulley. No puller required for either. CA & GA ambient and lack of salted roads, I guess.
I would use a pry bar against the front of the block, not against the aluminum bottom piece. One with a 'curl' at the end that could rock or roll on the curve of the curl would work nicely. In a pinch, a crowbar(small) or Stanley flat tool and a pivot could do the job. Mix ATF & Acetone 50:50, and drip/drool that onto the crank so it can seep into the gap between the sprocket & crankshaft. Supposed to be a good penetrating oil.
Patience. and if you get in a hurry, refer back to the patience exhortation. It will come apart, just give it some time.
tom

added: Have you thought about unbolting the aluminum adapter from the block, and moving it along with the crankshaft? That would allow the sprocket to stay in place.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Tom,

If I'm figuring the intent given the engine disassembly and assembly questions this would be the crank side timing belt pulley which doesn't come off unless you are changing the front seal or the front seal housing. Like you said, everything else should be a light slip fit, the crank timing pulley usually really likes where it lives and doesn't want to come off.

If you have the engine out of the truck on a roll over stand, I believe you can get to the back of the pulley to some extent, or take a pointy chisel between the timing belt guide washer and the pulley.

 

[tomw]

scotts90 - If I'm figuring the intent given the engine disassembly and assembly questions this would be the crank side timing belt pulley which doesn't come off unless you are changing the front seal or the front seal housing.

How do you change the timing belt if the crankshaft timing belt pulley is behind the front seal or front seal housing?
Maybe I have a different mental image, but thought the crankshaft pulley pressed against the front of the timing belt pulley on the crankshaft, and the timing belt cover had a curved cutout that was close to the crank pulley, with a gap, and the belt would be exposed by removing the timing belt cover, and the belt removable(and thus the crank sprocket) after the crankshaft pulley was removed, increasing the clearance between the back side of the pulley and the aluminum adapter/guide/bottom of the timing belt 'cover system'.(there is clearance, but for ease, you have to remove the crankshaft pulley to gain straight on access to the front of the crankshaft sprocket, otherwise, bending the belt around a corner to remove or install - it can be done. Especially in a parking lot far from home in the dark in the rain.)
tom

 

[scrapper]

Yes the front and rear seals are leaking. I took the head in to get a valve job wont be done until Friday or so. I got new clutch parts to put on including the flywheel, so I'm changing the main seals. You have to pull the gear to get the front seal off. I wasn't sure there was a puller that small.

 

[scotts90ranger]

You could probably modify a puller or rig up something, a 2 jaw would be the max you could use as there's not much room...

Tom, on a '94 there's the front pulley that is held on by 4 bolts to the crank sensor reluctor wheel hub thing, take the crank bolt out and that "should" slide off since it's just keyed to the crank, behind that is the timing belt pulley on the crankshaft, behind that is the guide washer for the timing belt (not all I've taken apart have this...) then the front seal.

When I got that stubborn one off I'm pretty sure I used a puller somehow, but it didn't fit very well, and I was doing it with the block standing up on the garage floor so I had some room to work...

 

[scrapper]

I have a cheap puller coming, then as I tighten it down I am going to heat that sucker up. I pulled the tranny and started to replace the rear seal, flywheel, and the clutch. I got the seal in and the flywheel on, and when I tried to put the pressure plate on and could only get 3 bolts in. I dicked around with it for about 20 min. finally figured out it wasn't going to bolt up, well 3 bolts would. I called the place and I guess I got one for a 95? They are sending one out and it will have a return label included. I thought they were all the same? I should just pulled the block and take it in and have them re ring it... I'm tired of working on it. To much for a fat old guy, laying on dirt and rocks.

 

[tomw]

You could take the new flywheel & pressure plate, lay them on the workbench/floor, and see how well the holes line up. The old one(pressure plate) should match the new, if you put them face to face(friction surface to friction surface), and the disks should also be the same diameter with the same depth and diameter spline(both should fit onto the input shaft w/o any problem).
Compare the two flywheels, for hole placement. Could be the new fly is wrong. If so, you could take the old to a machine shop for re-surfacing and be hours/days ahead.
I have yet to replace a flywheel, but they can get grooved beyond reasonable use. Most times, a machine shop can take a 'fly cut'(I think) and get a good surface on an old one.
tom

 

[scrapper]

The pressure plate was the wrong one. It did not line up only 3 holes did. The flywheel was not in great shape.

 

[scrapper]

This worked if anyone has the same problem. I did grind it down to make it thin enough to fit under the gear. Then tightened it up and hit the gear with heat from a propane torch. I was shocked it came off. Maybe someone else can use this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FHFRT6G/?tag=959media-20

 

[TremblantRanger]

Not much you can do with these other than what's been said; PB Blaster, prybar and patience. Thing is the clearances are so tight you can't wiggle the gear out or use excessive force on the prybar. My trick is medium force, repetitive pushes on the bar and frequent doses of PB Blaster and it'll pop off without warning eventually. I greased the gear's hole with silicone paste, took it appart 3 months later and it still was stuck. I guess the engine heat melts the lubricants away... You may try antiseize; stands up good with brakes and heat... That's my next move next time I'll go in there!