cranks but no spark or fuel pressure - v8 swap

[Tripp]

Hey, hoping someone can help me out. i have a 92 ranger XLT 4x4 (had a 4.0L v6 auto) and i've put a '90 302 v8/'75 c4 tranny in her. i've bought off ebay an 89 mustang puter and a wiring harness from a 91 stang. will these work with each other or were there wiring changes from 89 - 91? i've looked but can't find a definite answer anywhere. in the mean time i've gone ahead and bought a harwood manual for my year of ranger and spliced the 91 stang harness into my truck as per the manual (i've left all the ranger wiring in place but taken out the puter). when i turn the key i can crank her over but not getting fuel pressure or spark. i've replaced the relays for the fuel pump and the EEC relay. also everything worked on my truck before i started the swap. i get a check engine light on the dash when i have the key on engine off and it disappears when i unplug the 89 stang puter. i've also tried to jump the plugs for the diag. code plug to get the CEL to blink any codes at me (as per a guide i found on the net) but it wont blink at all, just stays solid. i'm thinking my next step (given that my 89 puter will work with a 91 harness) is to pull out the multimeter and start diagnosing that way. i've double checked pretty much all the plugs and grounds and everything looks good. any suggestions would be much appreciated. thx guys.

 

[Teddyzee]

Visit www.fordfuelinjection.com for diagrams/evtms for all year efi Mustangs.
The CEL is turned on by the ecu, so it goes out when you remove the ecu.

All the '89-'92 Mustang Mass Air ECUs are compatable.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Did you check the eec relay sounds like the computer is not getting power. Does it have the TFI ignition try disconnecting the spout wire and see if it starts.

 

[doorgunner]

whew....you got a handful there...

Here's some basic steps:

find the 12v wire to the computer & make sure it has 12 volts going into the computer with the KEY ON...

then find the wire that goes from the computer to the fuel pump relay & make sure the relay is getting 12 volts with the KEY ON...

then if the fuel pump is getting 12 volts from the relay & is working correctly--listen for the fuel pump to run for 5-10 seconds as it builds up pressure to the injectors...

then use a mechanics stethescope to listen to the injectors while somebody cranks the engine...they should be clicking....

then find the wire from the computer that goes to the distributor/whatever & make sure it is getting 12 volts...

then make sure the sparkplugs are firing....

 

[Tripp]

ok i'm stumped guys. as mentioned above i've checked the continuity of pins 16, 20, 40 and 60 and they're good. I've checked pins 37, 50, 1, 19 and there was an issue with pin 1 not having 12v so i fixed that and now its good and i have fuel pressure. I"ve checked both RED/BLUE and RED/GRN wires for power and they do (Red/blue constant 12v, Red/LG is 12V when key ON/engine OFF).

so now i have fuel pressure but no spark still. i've gone thru this worksheet:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech..._worksheet.jpg
and everything is as it should be voltage, continuity, and resistance wise. but i'm still not getting a spark. i have a spark tester in between the ignition module and the center post of the distributor to see if i'm getting a spark and i'm not. i've also replaced the ignition module.
i'm getting 12v on both the + and - sides of the ignition module and when i crank it over they both drop down to 8-9v (as the worksheet says) and fluctuate around there.

any help would be appreciated as i'm super stumped.

 

[Axial32]

Did you ever figure out the problem... it sounds just like the problem I'm having right now with my swap.

 

[Tripp]

yup the wires plugging into the ignition coil were corroded for about 2 inches at the ends. i had to cut about 3 inches off to find good copper and crimped on new connectors. also not sure if it helped but someone said to try to start it w/o the ignition coil plugged in and then plug it in. anyways, started getting spark and timed her up. it was an odd issue as i was seeing voltage with the multimeter on those wires before i snipped off the ends.

now to fix the 8 engine codes to get her to run