CPS/syncro question.

[fourwheelford]

I just spent the last hour reading about this crap and now I have a few questions about it.

1.My truck has a little under 101,000 miles on it how likely is a syncro failure if its not making any noise?

2.Its 90 degrees right now so im using 10w-30 castrol high mileage oil, will the thicker oil quicken the death of the syncro?

3.The truck does not see high RPMs(4000 grand is the max if im pulling a steep hill) but thats not often, do hi RPms quicken the death?

4.I bought the truck with 98,000 miles on it what is the likely hood that the syncro has already been replaced?

5.Because I stay in the city and my rpms usually sit below 2500 I should get a CEL before the syncro fails completely right?

6.With the alignment tool and a haynes on hand how difficult is this on a scale of 1-10 for a semi-good wrench turner?

Im just trying to get a good handle on this thing so I can understand it, I don't want to change the oil again because I just did about 300 miles ago but I will if I have to. I understand how the stupid thing works but hearing from a ford veteran or tech would be great, I don't even want to drive the truck because im so scared of it going out. I stethoscope it all the time and its quite as a church mouse but I don't have good luck with stuff like this. Any info is great thanks everyone

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

1. cam syncros dont always make noise before they fail. it could go at any time.

2. i doubt your choice of oil will have an appriciable effect on the cam syncros lifespan.

3. the syncro wears out from lack of oil and general wear. engine RPM isnt likely to have an appriciable effect on its lifespan.

4. 50/50 chance. syncros seem to have a broad range of failure. some have failed before 50K miles...some havnt failed after 200K miles. a lot of them seem to like to let loose right around the 100K range though.

5. no. the actual sensor part of the syncro can function right up until catastrophic failure.

6. 3

if it were my truck, i would replace the syncro shaft just for peace of mind. a syncro is a lot cheaper than an engine.

 

[fourwheelford]

I think im gonna do that thanks for the reply

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

I second what Mr Sludge just said.
Mine started squeaking at 55K miles,
and I changed it so I could sleep better
at night. Not a hard job at all, just start
at TDC on compression stroke, and mark
the position of the synchro relative to the
block.

A synchro position tool is necessary to get
it timed perfectly. Try AutoZone for a loaner.
And be sure to lube the gear before installation.

Let us know what yours looks like after removal......

 

[fourwheelford]

Im almost wondering if it has been changed before and not done right, it almost seems like its a bit out of time I have just recently done the timing chain and all is well there. Im just so tired of working on this thing its all I have done since I bought it and I still have some stuff left to do before I can sleep better, anyone happen to know what a dealer would charge to take care of it for me? I **** stuff like this up and im sick of busting my knuckles on this thing, I have always owned old cars and had to work on them so I bought something newer hoping to avoid the constant repairs and its all i've done since april. Sorry for the rant thanks for the replies guys

 

[Toms01PSD]

I wouldn't consider it anything more than normal maintenance. Just about everything has to be replaced at certain intervals. Mine made a squealing noise and I thought it was the alternator at first. After reading, I discovered it was the syncro. The only shitty part about replacing it is the fact that it's at the back of the engine down on the block itself. There are many threads about it and many pictures. If you're still uncomfortable replacing i'd have the dealer do it but I think you should be alright. By the way, Sludge is the 3.0 guru.

 

[fourwheelford]

Thats what it would seem I have read many of his posts and he seems to be spot on with his advice, im waiting to hear back from the dealer for a quote depending on what they want for them to do it I may just do it myself. My main issue is that I got the truck and all the intervals hit me in the face about 2 weeks later so it just seems like a lot of work.

 

[Toms01PSD]

Trust me, I know how you feel. I did head gaskets two weeks after I bought my truck at an auction. I changed the oil (which looked original) because it had CLUMPS of gritty shit in it. I replaced the seats, the brake lines (because they were cut and there was a nail in the master cylinder to stop the rears from leaking), the brakes themselves (except for calipers, everything is brand new), ball joints, shocks, tires, one bent rim, cam syncro, diff fluids, trans fluid. The list goes on but I love this little truck and the ball-less engine to death. It has 184k on it now and if I do the routine maintenance I trust this truck with my life and that it will take me wherever I need to go with no problems at all. Have faith in it and take care of the issues and it will be one damn reliable truck.

 

[fourwheelford]

Don't you just hate when people don't keep up on their stuff? Well I called around and found the syncro for 140 bucks through the dealer but the tool in nowhere to be found, I called all my AP stores around here and nothing. They want 140 bucks for labor and 140 for the part so I think im gonna tackle this one myself my step dad is a mechanic and has done these without the tool so I think we can get it. I just want to drive my truck and its being difficult, hopefully with this the wheel bearing on the passanger side and an alignment I will be done for awhile.

 

[Toms01PSD]

Don't you just hate when people don't keep up on their stuff? Well I called around and found the syncro for 140 bucks through the dealer but the tool in nowhere to be found, I called all my AP stores around here and nothing. They want 140 bucks for labor and 140 for the part so I think im gonna tackle this one myself my step dad is a mechanic and has done these without the tool so I think we can get it. I just want to drive my truck and its being difficult, hopefully with this the wheel bearing on the passanger side and an alignment I will be done for awhile.

LOL. If it's 4x4, you're going to have to replace the whole wheel hub. They are expensive!

 

[fourwheelford]

I already did the drivers side, but my step dad is a mechanic so I get parts at cost it ran me 145 bucks for the first one so its not as bad as it could be

 

[fourwheelford]

Well its all done and running good, thanks to you guys a haynes manual and a link from another article we got it all done and guess what it was a tooth off at TDC. We checked three different ways and every time we got one tooth off so we put it at TDC and got the little tooth right in the center and bam she's running good. The syncro itself wasn't missing any teeth but it was a lot harder to turn than the new one so I would guess it was on its way out. Thanks again everyone.

 

[cargs]

what years have the syncro problems?

thanks.

 

[graff104]

what years have the syncro problems?

thanks.

I believe it is 95+ somebody correct me if im wrong.

 

[SixFoFalcon]

Yeah, all the 3.0L cam synchros are potentially affected, so any 3.0L made after the switch from distributor ignition to DIS will be at risk.