Corrado G60

[JibbaJibba56]

Been a while since I've been in TRS but I am working on a VW Corrado G60 and am in the process of doing a MegaSquirt MSnS-e upgrade to it. I thought it might be helpful to others that might want to do a MS kit to follow along as I do mine (or not follow along if it goes bad). Basically, I started with a G60 that had an engine wiring harness short that led to the previous owner cutting out the harness and a few critical 'harder to find' sensors required by the ECM. I parted the ECM for about $150 and have torn through most of the engine bay at this point. Right now I am contemplating keeping it a G60 supercharger or swapping to turbo (G60's have been known to grenade).

Knowns right now: Integration of an EDIS-4 spark module to get away from dizzy upsets at high revs, batch fire injection, wideband O2, and ford MAF and throttle body for better VE mapping.

Hope someone might find this useful.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I learn by osmosis, the more detailed you are-including pics, the better.

Richard

 

[JibbaJibba56]

Update

Kit shipped

MegaSquirt-II Programmable EFI System PCB3.0 - Kit w/ BLACK CASE

8' MegaSquirt Wiring Harness (MS1 / MS2 / MS3 Ready)

Total = $345.40

I will edit this when I recieve the kit to show a picture of as received to give an idea to those on the fence. It will be nice to see:

1. How organized it is
2. Whether or not every component is included such that every feature can be used.

Edit: It has arrived and I am so far impressed with its layout and labelling.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/MBdxxtw8UfANVm_M5s9OoWiPNG2A9VGw4lswyEP8N9g?feat=directlink
The above shows the kit and the harness I ordered. Every thing is neatly labelled and bagged. Also all resisitors are in a master resistor bag, diodes the same, but different value items are in individual bags inside the master bag, really nice.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BsljPcH4a9HVoiABuPb4TWiPNG2A9VGw4lswyEP8N9g?feat=directlink
The harness came with a generic guide that is quite impressive, also the wires in the harness are color coded and labelled clearly

For reference, does anyone know what a brand new EDIS-4 control module would cost? I have searched a few places and come up with nothing as far as new. I am prepared to hit the local pick n pull to get one if the cost of new is too astounding.

 

[JibbaJibba56]

Power Supply Circuit

Well after washing the dogs and cleaning up the house with the wife, I got a chance to start working on the MS2 circuits. About 2 hours time to count and verify that you have all the components for the full build and to build the power supply circuit of the board. All in all, a very simple build so far, seems to be quite friendly to spacing and layout for solder components, i.e. not cramped. I stopped at the IAC decision step as I haven't had time to venture out to the local yard to see what I can pick up for cheap (looking to get throttle body, MAF, etc from a single vehicle/vehicle group to make future parts buying easier.)

BTW: I wasn't sure about the heat sink compound included in the kit (I'm sure its good) and the packaging of the stuff isn't to friendly to deposit on the components that mount to the heat sink bar so I used some Arctic Silver I have lying around from a few computer builds I've done. It is typically the most efficient at thermal transfer in CPU's so I figured it would work good here. Not to mention it comes in a nice plunger tube for easier delivery.

 

[JibbaJibba56]

Board Complete

Well the board is completed now, I haven't updated this for a couple weeks due to the busy monster getting me. anyways, the overall board build is quite simple if you can follow directions and know what it is you are going to use as far as components. All in all take your time. I sucessfully loaded the s19 files to the megasquirt and have viewed current status using tunerstudio. This was achieved with a usb to serial adapter and also a spare low amperage 12v dc power supply I had on hand from some random burnt out electronic (i think it was an older style External HDD power supply).

on the plus, notice I relearned how to post these images embeded style

 

[JibbaJibba56]

As always when working on a project you find some bad stuff. took the timing belt off as it was old, burnt, cracked, etc. along with the tensonioner. once the belt was off, I decided I would check the dampner. Come to find out the crank sprocket was quite stripped so I spent a couple hours getting some pins and drill bits and drilling the crank sprocket and cleaning of the crank nose keyway to ensure the sprocket seats flush and is totally engaged.

stripped crank sprocket

stripped keyway on crank nose

Pinned!

 

[JibbaJibba56]

Hit the junkyard and found myself a nice little item, an EDIS-4 intact on the very first 93 escort I came across. Also collected the coil harness, the EDIS harness, and a Bosch HFM-5 MAF that will likely go back to the yard soon in exchange for a Ford MAF (ms already has a conversion file for particular Ford MAF). While I am there I plan to pick up a throttle body from a trusty ranger or contour (things I am familiar with). I think either one will be good as they should be able to flow more air than this engine/sc will push.

Latest work was finding a hole in the fire wall to pass the MS harness through such that the MS controller can stay in the cab. Got lucky, there was a free hole next to the main body harness behind the strut tower, went fishing and caught a new MS wire harness.

Also retorqued the crank pulley after getting some locktite. No need for a VW spanner wrench, just put the car in gear and have a friend (or wife) stand on the brake pedal. Provided enough to get the bolt torqued to 110 ft-lbs.

 

[martin]

Where did you find the megasqirt and harness for that price?. Interesting thread so far, keep up the good work.

 

[JibbaJibba56]

DIYautotune

they have lots of neat stuff for the megasquirt also.

 

[JibbaJibba56]

Been a while since last post but wiring work goes slow. I've since wired everything except the EDIS. I calibrated my coolant temp sensor, intake air temp sensor, and put new o-rings and hats on the injectors. So far all wiring is 'temped' in (soldered to sensors but wire nut to the megasquirt) to make sure it's right and the appropriate length before getting totally commited. After all the wire and sensor calibration the car has done something it hasn't since I've owned it, it cranked with the key.

I have an Innovative wideband gauge kit on the way (LC1, sensor, gauge, software) as I found the stock narrowband O2 to be dead (what better justification to go full wideband than that?). This weekend is dedicated to getting the wiring routes firmed up, fuel lines started, and of course, the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo!

Picks to follow when the wiring is in place and zipped down. BTW, the premade harness and subsequent diagram from DIY autotune is second to none. If you can see color, you can figure out which wire goes where. IF not, each wire lead is printed with it's use and MS2 pin destination. Spoon fed..

 

[fastpakr]

Excellent thread, thanks for posting the info. I followed the MS project for quite a while back when it was a Yahoo group but got sidetracked before actually installing one. Sounds like you're well on your way!

 

[JibbaJibba56]

Thanks for that, I was well on my way until my company asked me to take the FE exam so for the last month I've been sidetracked studying for that. Hope that goes well this saturday because it's been too long since I've been out in the garage wrenching. The last things I need to pick up are a 36 tooth gear from mcmaster for the Crank sensor, and a crank sensor. I have my new fuel lines ready to be installed just haven't had the time, jobs are always getting in the way but Thankfully I have a job so I won't complain.

I can't wait to fire this thing for the first time and start tuning it...

 

[JibbaJibba56]

okay well I got to play with my wrenches again this past weekend. I ordered a trigger wheel from DIY autotune after being assured that it was tested with a factory 91 ford escort VR sensor. Naturally I ordered that particular sensor also. The DIYautotune wheel is a nice unit imo. I fitted it with a little cutting work to my pulleys (between the alternator/g-charger drive pulley and the waterpump/ac pulley.) Having the half inch center hole was nice to center up the trigger wheel to mark my points to put FHCS holes in the wheel to bolt it flush to the crank damper. I then put then transferred the holes, tapped them (the ones in the damper) and countersunk the trigger wheel holes. All in all a simple process that takes a bit of time in an effort to be careful. I realize the damper is probably not the best place for it however it works and if it does create a bit of havoc the hole is still the right size to weld it to the back of the crankpulley (didn't have access to the welder at that time).

Additionally, I refit my repaired fuel lines. Basically I cut back the old nylon lines to the point just after the filter such that all the factory bends were retained (that portion of the lines were still in great shape). I then used some matching size new nylon fuel line I bought off Amazon connecting the ends with the barbed brass repair fittings. The brass fittings are a bit of a pain to work the hose onto, even if you do the recommended boiling. I found and easier way to fit them to the first half of the line, chuck the fitting in a drill and spin the drill SLOWLY feeding the brass fitting into the nylon line. The frictional heat generated heats up the end of the line to just the right point for it to slip over and then when it cools it seals and conforms to the barbs. I did pressurize the system and check for leaks and well, no leaks! Fitting the other end of the new hose was more involved and I did a bit of boiling and a lot of twisting by hand to finally get the hose all the way onto the fitting. It takes time but do take your time and don't be tempted to use pliers, these will gall the lines up pretty bad and might be deep enough to leak. I used a rubber shoed bar clamp (the ones for wood) to hold the end with the fitting in place and that worked well without chewing into the lines.

This weekends agenda is lining up the VR sensor, finding a good spot for the coil, and hopefully loading a basemap to start it up.

 

[JibbaJibba56]

For some future work, I need to find out where to get a purely vacuum actuated purge valve (no electronics). The factory one is hard to come across and I'd rather vent my vapors to the engine to be burned than the atmosphere, not to mention, I'll eventually need to pass a visual inspection (I am still under the impression that the inspection person won't know the difference between an active digifant ECU and the dummy plastic box I intend to place in that spot for the inspection. This thing has not OBDII nor an OBD 1 jumper, it just has a CEL that was activated only by the digifant if there was a problem).

Additionally, EGR valves are really hard to find for these things as most people deleted them. Normally I wouldn't worry too much about it but one I need to pass the visual, and two, the thermal mass could help me safely lean out the cruise portion of the tuning map to help improve my highway MPG's. Any input on a purely actuated EGR would be nice. IIRC, the ranger EGR had a seperate vacuum switch...

 

[JibbaJibba56]

Well, I have found some interesting parts to pull into the rig. got a purge valve from and E150 and is actually a pretty nice fit, and an EGR from a 2000 ranger (Lima) also a pretty good fit. The EGR will need outfitted with brass NPT fittings to vacuum line them to the intake (that is how the original G60 was setup so i assume it will work okay).

I was able to get it to crank and spit a bit however I found my crank pinning to be less than adequate. Either the nose is to worn at the crank interface or the shaft has a ton of slop at the bearings. All noted my a huge amount (seriously bent bike tire huge) of pulley slop. I quit while I was ahead and will investigate the crank further. I tore it down to just the crank sprocket with all the timing intact and had the wife give the starter a bump a couple of times and it looks like there is play there. I will do the same with the timing gear removed to watch the shaft roll with a dial indicator. If it's nice a true then the nose and/or gear need reworked to get a good flush seating.

All in all, for the 5 seconds of life it rumbled out it sounded damn good. Deep and throaty but not bumble bee-esque like some of the other pocket rockets you see. Here's to hobbies oh and learning.