Cordless Tools Recommendations?

[exbass94]

if you think about it though, why would a company want to build a $100 drill that's gonna last you 5 years? wouldnt they want them to break every couple years so you have to go buy a new one?

Who the hell would do that? If I bought a drill that broke after only a few years, I would never buy another tool from that company ever again! I refuse to spend money on junk that doesn't last.

That's why I always roll my eyes and shake my head at people who say automakers want their vehicles to break right after the warranty. Yeah, that'll help their reputation and boost sales.

 

[robertc1024]

I've got lots of Makita stuff and I love it. Cheap tools aren't worth the money. I hear ya on the batteries though. The last time my batteries took a dump, it was cheaper to buy a whole new drill set (batteries, charger etc.) than it was to get two new batteries for the old one.

 

[cvar]

And speaking of battery chargers...

Here's a handy one I use (in a pinch) for recharging any size battery, on any tool, when the normal charger is not available. This simple gadget took minutes to build, and I've used it for a few years. Just hook it to "+" and "-" of the battery, and ignore the "T" connections.

http://www.alpharubicon.com/elect/3dollarbattggn.htm

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Cheap tools aren't worth the money.

You gotta know how to play Santa. He is somewhat of a tightwad and $2-300 cordless drills get you laughed at... however a $70 Craftsman every couple years flys right under the radar.

I actually just got my first cordless drill two years ago this coming Christmas.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I still don't know why everyone knocks Craftsman....

My regular cordless drill I was drilling a 1" hole using an auger bit on an extension and ran it till smoke started pouring out of it. Backed it out, swapped the bit to my cordless hammerdrill and finished the holes. I thought I had just junked my regular one. Nope. Still works like a top. Drilled untold numbers of holes and put in even more screws with it too, thing has been beat on for around 8 years now and it's been two years since I made it smoke. Sure a Dewalt might be better, but I've been satisfied.

As far as corded drills and sawzalls.... just one word.... Milwalkee. I was hooked when I borrowed a drill off a sheet metal guy to drill a couple holes one day (didn't have any drill in the truck because I didn't expect to need one, but alas, the need arose). I'm drilling and it's making all sorts of racket and metal shards are falling out of the case now an then, so I flip it upside-down and shake... it rained metal fragments.... then the drill stopped making so much noise. Ran great the whole time though. Lets see your Dewalt do that!

 

[UrbanRedneckKid]

You gotta know how to play Santa. He is somewhat of a tightwad and $2-300 cordless drills get you laughed at... however a $70 Craftsman every couple years flys right under the radar.

I actually just got my first cordless drill two years ago this coming Christmas.

I got my Milwaukee set for Christmas.
The drill and driver combo was on sale for $200.

Can your cheapies chuck up a1/2" or 13mm drill bit and then damn near snap your wrist when it catches.... Not to mention, they are a 1/3 of the weight of the cheapies.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Shran]

As far as corded drills and sawzalls.... just one word.... Milwalkee.

Blech... they're OK. I have a 1/2" Milwaukee hammer drill at work that has been used about three times. It feels like a solid, quality tool, but my cordless 18v DeWalt will outdo it 100% of the time in any material, especially steel.

 

[4x4junkie]

Nickel Metal Hydride batteries are (were?) the way to go if you wanted dependability (if not necessarily the most awesomest power). Unfortunately it seems most all of the manufacturers quit making NiMH tools (going back to NiCd) I'm guessing because no one was ever buying any replacement batteries for them (which apparently is their big $$$ maker... Much like $30 inket cartridges for your $40 printer ). NiCd batts start getting cell shorts if you leave them sit around unused for a long time it seems, where NiMH doesn't.

So when the NiCd batteries went kaput on this 19.2V Craftsman drill I have on hand here, I hit up ebay for some RC car NiMH packs (good ones, not the china-crap ones with overinflated mAh ratings) and for $45 or so had a new ever-powerful drill again that now lasts twice as long per charge than before, and I don't have to worry if it doesn't get used for a couple months (it'll still even have a charge after that time too).
Given my past almost decade experience with RC cars, I'm thinking they should last for some time.

I would think a majority of NiCd chargers will work with NiMH cells (the Craftsman 19.2V one works perfectly), thought NiMH cells do have a lower delta voltage cutoff than NiCds, so you'd want to monitor it for a bit first time to make sure it doesn't overcharge & cook your NiMH cells.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Blech... they're OK. I have a 1/2" Milwaukee hammer drill at work that has been used about three times. It feels like a solid, quality tool, but my cordless 18v DeWalt will outdo it 100% of the time in any material, especially steel.

Somehow I don't think I'd want to be trying to use your Dewalt to drill a 5/8" or 3/4" hole in steel...

I like my Milwalkee right angle drill for that, it's slow, but at least you can hold on well enough if it catches to not risk breaking your wrist....

 

[hilltopfarm]

I have heard Milwaukee is good. I have all Makita 18V tools, they are expensive, but trustworthy. I guess it all depends what you want to use them for. I also know of people who have DeWalt stuff, and it seems to break a lot. Makita or Milwaukee are definitely better.

 

[Will]

I don't own it, but my brother-in-law has a Rigid from Home Depot. I used it a lot recently helping him get his house ready to sell and I really like it.

 

[upnsmoke]

I buy most of my power tools from Makita. I generally have good luck with them, despite being fairly abusive of them at times. Craftsman tools have served me well for the most part, but I haven't bought any new power tools from them in recent years, so I can't say whether their quality is what it used to be.

 

[Will]

Somehow I don't think I'd want to be trying to use your Dewalt to drill a 5/8" or 3/4" hole in steel...

I like my Milwalkee right angle drill for that, it's slow, but at least you can hold on well enough if it catches to not risk breaking your wrist....

I've got this old Toastmaster drill. It's got to be 50 years old. It has one speed and no reverse. It's the size and weight of a Ford V8 starter motor. We use it to mix mortar and thin-set. It will hurt you bad drilling steel. I have a 1" drill bit that got snagged and the drill straightened out the flukes. I posted it on here several years ago. My wife also cultivates the garden with it using a dog leash auger thing. My dad bought this drill at auction and gave it to me without comment. I tried it out installing a frame hitch and the bit got snagged and spun me in a circle under the truck until the tire stopped me.

I have a big Milwaukee I use for real drilling. I have a 12V Porter Cable, maybe 12 years old, I use for driving screws. The Porter Cable has excellent control though not a ton of power. I drive a lot of weak marine-grade screws--silicone-bronze and 316 stainless. You want absolute control and this Porter Cable 12V gives you that. You might drive 100 screws in for one panel that has glue curing on and you can't afford to snap a head. I want control and finesse, not brute power from a driver. When a single screw might cost a dollar, I'm not interested in power. My 12V Porter Cable has great control and the clutch on it is very precise. It's an older model, but I have to assume it's newer siblings are similar.

I use corded tools mostly. I have a handful of cheap cordless drivers for driving screws though. You have to drill a pilot hole, a shank hole, a countersink, and then drive the screw. When it takes 100 screws to hold on a panel, you have 4 drivers, each with a different bit. The only important one is the one that drives the actual screw. I have all different brands, but the Porter Cable 12V is the best for control.

 

[ronclark]

I need the tools are for work and i need the portability, so I need a good selection of tools and there going to get beaten up.
It looks like I am going to start moving to Milwaukee, there more compact, better warranty

Thanks for all your input, but it looks like what everyone like really depends on what thy use them for and how hard thy are on them.

I been happy with my 18v Dewalts, i feel like i have gotten my moneys worth out of them with little problems in breakage, but i get the feeling look at the new Dewalts are just not built like thy used too. and being more expensive than everyone else, is a major turn off for me

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I've got this old Toastmaster drill. It's got to be 50 years old. It has one speed and no reverse. It's the size and weight of a Ford V8 starter motor. We use it to mix mortar and thin-set. It will hurt you bad drilling steel. I have a 1" drill bit that got snagged and the drill straightened out the flukes. I posted it on here several years ago. My wife also cultivates the garden with it using a dog leash auger thing. My dad bought this drill at auction and gave it to me without comment. I tried it out installing a frame hitch and the bit got snagged and spun me in a circle under the truck until the tire stopped me.

I have a big Milwaukee I use for real drilling. I have a 12V Porter Cable, maybe 12 years old, I use for driving screws. The Porter Cable has excellent control though not a ton of power. I drive a lot of weak marine-grade screws--silicone-bronze and 316 stainless. You want absolute control and this Porter Cable 12V gives you that. You might drive 100 screws in for one panel that has glue curing on and you can't afford to snap a head. I want control and finesse, not brute power from a driver. When a single screw might cost a dollar, I'm not interested in power. My 12V Porter Cable has great control and the clutch on it is very precise. It's an older model, but I have to assume it's newer siblings are similar.

I use corded tools mostly. I have a handful of cheap cordless drivers for driving screws though. You have to drill a pilot hole, a shank hole, a countersink, and then drive the screw. When it takes 100 screws to hold on a panel, you have 4 drivers, each with a different bit. The only important one is the one that drives the actual screw. I have all different brands, but the Porter Cable 12V is the best for control.

I think I want to see photos of this old drill of yours....