Cooling system flush

[Reiimonranger93]

I have a 93 ranger guys , 2.3L manual trans . So I recently changed the radiator and thermostat on my truck , they were really bad ( I tried to clean it as much as I could ) . Then I realized my temperature gauge goes up for a little then goes back to cold , im about to change the water pump since it’s all rusty , so I’m wondering after changing it , do I have to bleed the cooling system and how can I really flush the engines part ? So all the dirty water/ coolant can come out

 

[97RangerXLT]

well hindsight being what it is.. if the water pump is rusty and the coolant looks horrible, you should have flushed. probably should have changed the water pump and flushed at the time you changed the radiator... you will now need to clean your new radiator out and flush it unfortunately... good luck!


AJ

 

[Reiimonranger93]

well hindsight being what it is.. if the water pump is rusty and the coolant looks horrible, you should have flushed. probably should have changed the water pump and flushed at the time you changed the radiator... you will now need to clean your new radiator out and flush it unfortunately... good luck!


AJ

Yeah I don’t mind that part , I have coolant to spare , it’s just is there a reason why my temperature gauge is not going up ? At least to normal ? Cause it goes up when I’m parked but when I take off , it goes back down to cold and it stays there

 

[97RangerXLT]

could be a few reasons... air in the system, rust particles have wedged your new thermostat open so the truck doesn't warm up properly... when you are stopped not much air going across the radiator, and when you are moving it is, and since you have a new radiator it is more effective at cooling.

could be the sensor is bad too, but I would say yank the t-stat, replace the water pump, then hook it all up and flush it without the t-stat. when you have no crud and the water is clear, put a new t-stat in and fill it up with proper coolant. when you get the coolant back in, make sure that the truck is facing slightly uphil so that the radiator cap is the highest item in the cooling system. turn on the heat, turn the heater control to full hot and run. keep adding coolant until it has cycled a few times to get the air out of the system. while waiting for the t-stat to open, make sure the cap is on, be careful about opening it when hot... good way to get scalded. also if you didn't before, make sure your new t-stat has a jiggle valve on it so that air can escape when it is closed.

AJ

 

[RonD]

Well the 1993 2.3l has the coolant temp sender at the back of the engine, drivers side, bad placement so it does show cooler than the actual temp at the top front of the engine where thermostat is


Seen here: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ra..._d3c13ce3af4920cf917bb86d6913e996a27c731c.gif

In later years Ford moved it to the upper heater hose at engine end
But gauge should be steady, just not up at 1/2 like most Ranger V6's, maybe 1/3 on the 2.3l
And always use a 190-195deg T-stat


To refill without trapping air remove both heater hoses at the firewall
Refill thru radiator, when coolant starts to come out of hoses re-attach them

Also use garden hose on heater core to flush it out in BOTH directions
Also you should Reverse heater hoses at the firewall once a year, it will make core last longer
You don't lose coolant when you do this, well very very little

One other heads up about the heater core, its not expensive or hard to change on 1994 and earlier Rangers
And if it starts to clog up the temp gauge will go up and down for no reason, just random up and down
Thats because the heater core is the water pumps by-pass

 

[Reiimonranger93]

could be a few reasons... air in the system, rust particles have wedged your new thermostat open so the truck doesn't warm up properly... when you are stopped not much air going across the radiator, and when you are moving it is, and since you have a new radiator it is more effective at cooling.

could be the sensor is bad too, but I would say yank the t-stat, replace the water pump, then hook it all up and flush it without the t-stat. when you have no crud and the water is clear, put a new t-stat in and fill it up with proper coolant. when you get the coolant back in, make sure that the truck is facing slightly uphil so that the radiator cap is the highest item in the cooling system. turn on the heat, turn the heater control to full hot and run. keep adding coolant until it has cycled a few times to get the air out of the system. while waiting for the t-stat to open, make sure the cap is on, be careful about opening it when hot... good way to get scalded. also if you didn't before, make sure your new t-stat has a jiggle valve on it so that air can escape when it is closed.

AJ

Thank you !!!

 

[Reiimonranger93]

Well the 1993 2.3l has the coolant temp sender at the back of the engine, drivers side, bad placement so it does show cooler than the actual temp at the top front of the engine where thermostat is


Seen here: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ra..._d3c13ce3af4920cf917bb86d6913e996a27c731c.gif

In later years Ford moved it to the upper heater hose at engine end
But gauge should be steady, just not up at 1/2 like most Ranger V6's, maybe 1/3 on the 2.3l
And always use a 190-195deg T-stat


To refill without trapping air remove both heater hoses at the firewall
Refill thru radiator, when coolant starts to come out of hoses re-attach them

Also use garden hose on heater core to flush it out in BOTH directions
Also you should Reverse heater hoses at the firewall once a year, it will make core last longer
You don't lose coolant when you do this, well very very little

One other heads up about the heater core, its not expensive or hard to change on 1994 and earlier Rangers
And if it starts to clog up the temp gauge will go up and down for no reason, just random up and down
Thats because the heater core is the water pumps by-pass

Im sorry but what are the hoses to the “firewall” Im more of a Spanish speaking Person sorry

 

[RonD]

Picture here: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ArL0uU39BIY/maxresdefault.jpg

You can see the 2 hoses disconnected

The heater core has been pull back inside the cab, to be removed, in this picture, the nipples would be much farther out on yours, so easy to disconnect and reconnect

Another picture of the hoses connected: https://www.allfordmustangs.com/for...88-2-3-heater-core-coolant-hoses-mustang3.jpg

 

[sgtsandman]

Don't be surprised to see the over flow lose coolant level for a little bit after completing the job as the system burps the remaining trapped air out of the system and sucks in coolant to replace the displaced air. It should be done burping after a few days.