cooling system flush questions

[kossdust]

Ok So I am going to do my first flush and have read a few threads on it. I was thinking of getting some of this stuff

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...K&PartNumber=80030&Description=Radiator+Flush

but it states not for Alum radiators, which I think mine is (1998 2.5L B2500) Can anyone tell me if I am correct. If I can not use this stuff what else should I use.

I was going to remove the t-stat to do this and then just replace the seal as nothing is wrong with it now. How hard easy is it to get to in this engine? In the book the pictures show the timing belt cover coming off but that does not seem right.

Also I am looking at replacing my heater core, should I buy one from the dealer or should I go with something from napa (or other parts stores and be done with it?)

 

[Fast Fords]

Ok So I am going to do my first flush and have read a few threads on it. I was thinking of getting some of this stuff

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...K&PartNumber=80030&Description=Radiator+Flush

but it states not for Alum radiators, which I think mine is (1998 2.5L B2500) Can anyone tell me if I am correct. If I can not use this stuff what else should I use.

I was going to remove the t-stat to do this and then just replace the seal as nothing is wrong with it now. How hard easy is it to get to in this engine? In the book the pictures show the timing belt cover coming off but that does not seem right.

Also I am looking at replacing my heater core, should I buy one from the dealer or should I go with something from napa (or other parts stores and be done with it?)

first thing...you do NOT want to replace your heater core..ever..unless it goes.. it is really THE BIGGEST PITA EVER. If it says do not use in aluminum rad, don't buy it. I believe you DO have an aluminum one in there..the flush stuff is pretty common for aluminum rad flushes..just gotta ask sometimes lol...the housing should just come right off for the thermostat and you are right about the gasket; replace it. Looking at microcat it looks pretty easy to remove..but to be honest, all i would do is drain the coolant, fill it back up with DISTILLED water, run it, drain it, and repeat that till the water comes out clear (or close to). THEN fill it with coolant. Your process will just be longer to get the coolant flush junk outta the engine/rad/cooling system..good luck though!!

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I did it once to my F-150, never again. It is a great way to kill half a day and make a giant mess... and then you have gallons of antifreeze mix to dispose of.

To me, like tranny flushes, I think it is better off to pay someone else to do it. Remember to get all the water out you have to hunt for block drains, leave enough in and you won't get the antifreezing protection you may need. No matter what route you go make sure to test the freezing point when you are done.

Dunno how the prices compare but is better to get a good radiator core than a cheap one in your style of truck. They are neither cheap or easy to replace so I would rather just do it right the first time.

 

[kossdust]

No I don't want to replace the radiator core but I think it is clogged and causing heating problems. I also am having blend door issues that while I am at it I could fix. but at this point I am not sure if I will. Just mulling around with the idea. I have a few days off work and at I feeling like I might as well

AS far as flushing I think I need to do more then just drain and refill. I seem to have some white particles in the fluid. I assume it is calcium deposits or something. I don't think just draining and refilling will work I feel I need to put something in it to get that stuff out.

I will keep reading as I am unsure what I want to do.

 

[Fast Fords]

well if you have chunkies then DEF flush it out..thats not good on any components of the cooling system, or engine. I agree, go to the dealer to get the heater core..but maybe you can describe the heating issue a bit better? maybe you have an alternate problem other than the heater core? Quite possibly the thermostat has sh*t the bed.

The heater core i picked up aftermarket from a parts dealer in town; it didn't fit as well as the Ford one (or Motorcraft). I would go that route. But be prepared, i made a day's work out of removing the heater core in my 95 and it was H....E....L.....L....there is a great sticky on the whole teardown in this section; check it out. I read it and i thought the author was kidding about the footprints on the headliner...i warn you now he was not. At all. Avoid doing it at all costs!

but maybe you can describe whats going on with your truck, either myself or another person on here can give you tests and directions as to which component to replace/test to see whats going on with your heating/cooling system

 

[shadetree]

According to radiator shops here, there is no over the counter flush worth fooling with. Just use water. Take off top and bottom hose, flush engine with a water hose. If the radiator is plugged, take to radiator shop and have it cleaned, or replace. jd

 

[IRKillroy]

ok, um... some of these ideas are bad....

if you have a valvoline Instant Oil change around you, go pay the $70 to get it done with their machine... it won't need to get done for another 30,000 miles.... don't flush water through the engine, it'll cause rusting... which will ruin your new mix... if you flush, flush with your mixture of 50/50...

that is the best thing for your engine.... go around your shops (ford has the same machine) to see what they do for a flush... it's a good investment, but I doubt your HC is plugged up... if that is plugged then your radiator should be too... they use the same piping sizes.

just go and pay to get it flushed properly by someone who won't cut your hoses to put some adapter on it...

 

[kossdust]

but maybe you can describe whats going on with your truck, either myself or another person on here can give you tests and directions as to which component to replace/test to see whats going on with your heating/cooling system

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40459


I was thinking of flushing with water till clear then draining everything and doing a 50/50 mix with distilled water back in. I called around yesterday to a few shops and a few would do it for under a hundred but said they would put an adapter in and the ones that said they wouldn't cost well over $100 like about $120.

 

[shadetree]

ok, um... some of these ideas are bad....

if you have a valvoline Instant Oil change around you, go pay the $70 to get it done with their machine... it won't need to get done for another 30,000 miles.... don't flush water through the engine, it'll cause rusting... which will ruin your new mix... if you flush, flush with your mixture of 50/50...

that is the best thing for your engine.... go around your shops (ford has the same machine) to see what they do for a flush... it's a good investment, but I doubt your HC is plugged up... if that is plugged then your radiator should be too... they use the same piping sizes.

just go and pay to get it flushed properly by someone who won't cut your hoses to put some adapter on it...

Flushing with water won't hurt anything. Anti freeze is half water anyway. Don't make a big deal out of something that isn't.

You do not state that you have a problem, only that you are going to flush. If it isn't leaking or running hot, simply change the coolant and leave it alone. Same for heater core, no need to change if it isn't leaking.

If you think you must do something, change the thermostat, and have the radiator cleaned. shady

 

[IRKillroy]

um, yeah.... how much water is in your block?? so getting a good mix of 50/50 is hard seeing as you won't be able to fill it very far which means you'll have to drain it and hope you get the right amount... I'm making a big deal out of it because without the proper mix anti-freeze doesn't protect from the cold, heat, and rust... to strong and it's corrosive, too little and it'll rust everything up. as for paying the $120 I'd say go for it, it'll clean out your entire system and is well worth the cost. some things are best done at a shop anyway... Cooling system flushes, A/C, sometimes transmission rebuilds... windshied replacement.

 

[cocoasranger]

Personally, I prefer to have a tee adaptor on my engine for flushing and removing air locks. If the tee is placed on the hose near the heater core you can bleed all the air out of the cooling system much quicker and easier than other methods. Flushing is also easier. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

 

[IRKillroy]

I'm not one to say your opinion doesn't matter... I fought for your right to have it... but I have my reasons to say it's not a great idea... every connection you have is another potential leak... and if it's a plastic T-fitting then it'll get brittle and break eventually (maybe you could fab one up from copper at home depot???) so if you do it, go high speed and get one from Russel connectors... you know, the aluminum -an fittings... they have good connectors that won't leak after you install them. and you can get cool colors!

 

[kossdust]

You do not state that you have a problem, only that you are going to flush. If it isn't leaking or running hot, simply change the coolant and leave it alone. Same for heater core, no need to change if it isn't leaking.

If you think you must do something, change the thermostat, and have the radiator cleaned. shady

This is why I want to replace heater core:

Well I have a problem with the heat not working when I let it idle. It only works when I am driving. I have checked vacuum and coolant level. It does not overheat nor does the temp gauge move after getting up to temp. I think that it is the heater core, I have thought I have been able to smell radiator fluid in my cab after letting the heat run for a long time (can't do that all the time b/c it gets to hot so I turn it off b/c blend door not work) but that just might be physiological.


This is why I want to flush system:

When I checked the lvl in radiator I also checked the freeze boil points with one of those testers and the temps are good but there are small particles floating in it like calcium hence why I feel I should flush and try to get some stuff out. if just a total change in the fluid will fix it then I am fine doing that, I just feel I should put some kind of chemical in it to get that crap out.

 

[IRKillroy]

wait... you said your blend door isn't working.... it's possible that it's moving around when you are driving and you are getting the hot air then... you really should get that fixed before you go spend all that money for a heater core... if everything else is working fine, then it's probably the simplest thing... the only broken part of your heating system!!!

fix that first then let us know if everything is working the way it should.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

um, yeah.... how much water is in your block?? so getting a good mix of 50/50 is hard seeing as you won't be able to fill it very far which means you'll have to drain it and hope you get the right amount... I'm making a big deal out of it because without the proper mix anti-freeze doesn't protect from the cold, heat, and rust... to strong and it's corrosive, too little and it'll rust everything up. as for paying the $120 I'd say go for it, it'll clean out your entire system and is well worth the cost. some things are best done at a shop anyway... Cooling system flushes, A/C, sometimes transmission rebuilds... windshied replacement.

Any water left in your system will be mixed up and become part of the antifreeze mix when you add it. You should be able to get almost all of the water out by draining the block by pulling the drain plugs (dunno if all engines have that option but mine did) I pulled out all the drains I could, mixed the water/antifreeze, and it tested for -35, which indicates a 50/50 mix.

It is very possible to get a good mix by doing the old school way, that is the way it has been done for decades... but it is more work.