Coolant Drain Plug

[omw41]

1994 XLT Standard Cab 3.0 Manual- When l removed my drain plug for a coolant flush, this is all that came out. Is this the complete plug pictured, or does this mean there is still some left in there. I ask because when l reinstall this plug, the drain hole keeps draining now.

Thanks

 

[ekrampitzjr]

Some radiators have a plastic (nylon) plug like that. It should be the right thing to pull for draining.

Stupid questions:

1. Did you remove the radiator cap before you pulled that plug? That always helps when draining.

2. When was the last time the coolant was changed? If it never has been or it's been many many miles, rust and sludge could be blocking the drain.

3. Has anyone ever, ever, used a stop-leak product such as Bar's Leaks in the truck? Same possibility as No. 2. You guys starting to get the idea that I don't like those products, since this is twice I've posted about them recently?

With either No. 2 or No. 3, you might need to consider replacing the radiator as it's probably clogged.

 

[omw41]

Thanks. Yes to the cap thing. It's a Fairly new radiator...within three years. It is not clogged. The problem now is when l put the plug back in, the drain neck undet the plug continues to drain. In other words, not clogged, but keeps draining.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I seem to remember an o-ring... like this.

 

[4.0blue98]

Yeah yours should look like the above
unless someone replaced the rad with aftermarket. Maybe the ear part snapped off?

 

[RonD]

There should be an O-ring in/on that plug, look inside the opening, it may be in there but shifted position so no seal when tight

 

[omw41]

Yeah yours should look like the above
unless someone replaced the rad with aftermarket. Maybe the ear part snapped off?

Right. That's what l think, but it is such a clean break.

 

[omw41]

There should be an O-ring in/on that plug, look inside the opening, it may be in there but shifted position so no seal when tight

Right. I am going to try a substitute o ring next and see what happens.

 

[omw41]

Right. I am going to try a substitute o ring next and see what happens.

 

[omw41]

Thank you to everyone. Ron D scores. I put an o ring on the end of the petcock, and no more leaks. If any of you find ypur way down to Venice FL area, we'll go to the VFW for a drink or three.

 

[omw41]

Yeah yours should look like the above
unless someone replaced the rad with aftermarket. Maybe the ear part snapped off?

It was replaced about three years ago. Doesn't look like It is FoMoCo brand.

 

[RonD]

Seen both types on radiators
The ones with the tongs at the end won't have a separate drain spout below it, you pull it out all the way and the tongs prevent it from falling out into drain pan, or should
The tongs loosen debris at the bottom of rad as you turn the plug to assist draining, you can also push it back in and spin to loosen any debris as it drains

The one in the OPs picture usually has a separate spout where coolant can drain out once you loosen the plug, you don't need to remove the plug all the way to drain, but can

 

[omw41]

Seen both types on radiators
The ones with the tongs at the end won't have a separate drain spout below it, you pull it out all the way and the tongs prevent it from falling out into drain pan, or should
The tongs loosen debris at the bottom of rad as you turn the plug to assist draining, you can also push it back in and spin to loosen any debris as it drains

The one in the OPs picture usually has a separate spout where coolant can drain out once you loosen the plug, you don't need to remove the plug all the way to drain, but can

OP Here: Thanks. Great and accurate information. Yes. Mine had the spout at the bottom, and I made the fatal mistake of taking it all the way out. Don't do it fellas.

An added O-ring gangsterized from a replacement with the tongs seems to have stopped the leak for now. BTW, neither Auto Zone or Advance sold one like mine. I wound up buying three tong type and hacking away on them in hopes of making a replacement. The threads matched up and were perfect, but the tongs made it too long. Could not just cut the tongs because the barrel piece where the o ring goes was too wide to allow the petcock to go all the way in. I tried cutting it at the right spot, but that opened up a hole so no go. I even tried to melt the hole closed but no. So, a 15.00 dollar 0 ring (three tong types at 5.00 each) placed at the end of the original piece seen in my original post seems to have done it.

I highway tested it on I 75...doing at least 75 for a good twenty mile run...no leaks. I did have some air pockets in my rad though, but I fixed those when I arrived home. On the refill I forgot to let it run for 10 or 15 minutes with the cap off to clear up any air pockets.

I learned back in the day when everything was metal. This plastic stuff is annoying.

So here's a question. Can you flush and fill a radiator by just disconnecting the bottom radiator hose? I know one would still have to clean out the overflow tank, but seems to me it might be easier than messing with plastic or nylon petcocks.

 

[RonD]

I always disconnect lower rad hose to drain the system faster, need a larger flat tub/pan to catch it all
Then disconnect one of the heater hoses at the firewall to fill it faster, and that also purges all the air in engine side while filling

 

[JohnnyO]

I always disconnect lower rad hose to drain the system faster, need a larger flat tub/pan to catch it all
Then disconnect one of the heater hoses at the firewall to fill it faster, and that also purges all the air in engine side while filling

Same. I just pull off the lower radiator hose to drain it, much faster.
I never tried the heater hose thing.
Fill the radiator with the engine running and heater on, then put the cap on just to one click, and drive it with the heater on for ten minutes and check it again. Having the cap on lets it warm up faster but not being on tight it will let the air bleed off easier and faster.