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Contuniues Check Engine Light need help to fix.....


What would I need to look for on the reader to run the test you advise?

See if it will show you DPFE voltage. What I'm going to suggest (if it does) is to ground the signal wire (brown/lt green) and watch the voltage reading in the scanner With the engine KOEO.
 
Ok. I tested 3 other DPFE sensors. I plugged them into the pigtail connector. Thanks for telling me not to mount the DPFE....I would have...this made it much faster.

Sensor #1: Green/5.08v and Red/33.8 mV.
Sensor #2: Green 5.09v and Red/33.9 mV.
Sensor #3 (the original metal DPFE) Green 1.2v/Red..00000,0v? Bounces a lot and stops on 0.1?

*Checking to see if my OBD2 can read DPFE Voltage....should know soon.

Thanks.
SRD
 
I checked my scanner tool. It is an Autel AL319. I saw "Live Data" but did not see anything like DPFE or Voltate readings.....not a very advanced tool I have.

*How could reading that data help me? I can upgrade if I need.....
 
You are getting the correct voltage with the metal sensor. At least a voltage reading that makes sense...
 
Ok, I can try to put back on the Old Original Metal sensor and see what happens.

*I just checked and now I went from having 2 codes to having 5 codes suddenly...Never ending. AI gave me the following....

P0320:The P0320 code on a 1999 Ford Ranger indicates a problem with the engine speed signal. This means that the engine control module (ECM) doesn't know the location of the crankshaft or camshaft, so it can't distribute fuel or fire spark plugs at the right time

P1401:The P1401 code, also known as "DPFE Circuit High Input," "Differential/Delta Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) sensor circuit high voltage detected," or "Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) pressure sensor circuit malfunction, high input," indicates a problem with the EGR system in a Ford Ranger. The code means that the voltage in the system is too high

P0455:The P0455 diagnostic trouble code indicates a leak in the Evaporative Emission Control (EVAP) system of a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, which prevents the system from maintaining pressure. The EVAP system usually has five main components: fuel tank, fuel cap, vent valve, purge valve, and evaporative canister (or charcoal canister).

P0401: EGR/DPFE?
P0402: EGR/DPFE?

*Changing DPFE back to Metal one see what happens. Any other advice is appreciated...Thanks.

SRD
 
Clear all the codes and do a running test. See if those P0401/P0402 codes return during the running test. Follow up on DFPE PID data when you can.
 
Question for Mechrick... I was thinking that the handful of millivolts on ground on the original module might just be a mediocre ground, but given that the OEM module does read 0V, I'm thinking even more those 2 aftermarket modules are likely bad Sound logic?
Between the sensor voltage being identical to the supply voltage and the ground being pulled up, I'm thinking they might be fried.
 
I wouldn't worry about millivolts, or even tenths of a volt. For instance, I would call .2v ground.
 
I was just thinking an internal short in the sensor might explain both symptoms.
 
Hello. Ok, so I cleared all the codes and did a "running Test"...OBD2 with the engine on?

1. Codes did not come back at all. Not anything?

2. The first time it passed with all green check marks? Never did that even when it was working before...lol.

3. I have driven over 50 miles so far Check Engine light is still off.....

4. The strange thing is I had 2 CE Lights...I started to mess with stuff, changed the DPFE, EGR, etc.. then I got three CE Lights. Then after a while, I got five CE Lights....lol.

5. So, after I put back the original Metal DPFE I got ZERO CE Lights?....I had changed the EGR, DPFE, and put a speedometer cable in my drill...sprayed some carb cleaner down my EGR tube, and snaked it like a drain...lol.

*I am wondering how long to drive before I can try and Smog it. I will test the Voltage etc..again when I get home later...

Thanks for the help!! I was soooo lost before. I have learned so much from you guys!

-SRD
 
I would think after a few 10-15 mile drives starting from cold, if all your monitors show complete and no codes, you're good to go. Frankly if you've reset the codes and nothing's come back after a long drive, you're probably good already. 🤞. Well done!
 
Oh and now that you have things working I would highly recommend making sure those splices are nice and solid and sealed off from the weather so you don't get any intermittent connections. Personally I prefer soldering small wires then heat shrinking them. I know some people prefer crimps, especially the crimps with sealant in them. I'm sure they're great too as long as you get a very strong mechanical connection.
 
Mine was on for so many years, the bulb finally burned out. So I was able to finally remove the piece of black tape that was covering it. EVAP dis-connected. EGR removed. Catalyst doesn't work ( can tell by the smell). I don't need no stinkun CEL.

But, I live in a wonderful state that doesn't do smog checks.
 
Mine was on for so many years, the bulb finally burned out. So I was able to finally remove the piece of black tape that was covering it. EVAP dis-connected. EGR removed. Catalyst doesn't work ( can tell by the smell). I don't need no stinkun CEL.

But, I live in a wonderful state that doesn't do smog checks.
Hahaha, a bold strategy😀
I have a buddy in Rhode Island who was failed for an evap code. He reset the codes. I was surprised to learn that they not only look at the light, they plug in a scan tool to make sure all the monitors are complete and that a certain amount of mileage has been driven. Which is another reason I'm thinking about moving to Tennessee or any other state without road salt and state inspections.
 
You may be ready to go. EVAP and catalyst are always the last to clear, a trick with Fords is to clear codes and start the engine without turning the key off and do the drive cycle. That tells the PCM to run the tests sequentially on that key cycle. Let us know if you make it through...
 

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