confused again

[mikie]

Just put heads on the 88 Ranger 2.9. Reinstalling the distributor is causing me some confusion. I'm sure I have #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke, the rotor is pointing at #1 cyl, but the cap (with #1 factory marked) doesnt line up with the rotor at #1. It almost two positions later in the rotation. Cap only goes one way. Is this normal or should I disregard the cap markings and wire #1 cyl to the cap position closest to the rotor position?

 

[RonD]

A little confused, #1 on the cap is #1 for the rotor, what other #1 mark are you using?
"the rotor is pointing at #1 cyl" <<do you mean rotor is pointed at front passenger side of engine, that's not an indicator for timing

You should pull up distributor and spin the rotor where it needs to be and then lower distributor back down
You can make a mark on distributors case for #1 with cap on, then when you remove cap you have an easy way to line up rotor to #1

Distributor may not go all the way back down, use a socket on crank and turn crank 90deg one way and then 90deg the other way and distributor should drop down all the way, then rotate back to 0deg TDC, you were lining up the oil pump drive
Snug distributor back up, but not tight, so rotor and cap #1 line up
Start engine to warm it up for 4 minutes or so, then shut it off and install timing light and unplug SPOUT to set base timing

Use the pointer, never the "eye", to set 10-12deg BTDC
If your engine has the "eye" it was for a Ford tool used to set timing, so not used with hand held timing light


Just an FYI, I think there is a difference in the vane inside distributor, when it gets to #1, so TFI and computer know when #1 is firing
Not sure it "matters" too much for Batch Fire injection, but it would with sequential fuel injection
It is a good idea to have the cap #1 mark used for #1 spark plug just for the next poor bastard that has to work on the engine, lol
i.e. you probably could move spark plug wires to match rotor position like on a carb engine, but why not just do it the right way since its not that much trouble to do so

 

[adsm08]

Ok, the rotor will turn as the distributor goes in because of the helical cut of the gears.

There are two lines on the distributor face where the cap sits. Set the rotor so the leading (clockwise) edge of it is just at the line that is more to the counter-clockwise direction.

If you do this correctly when the distributor seats in completely the rotor should be sitting almost perfectly between the two lines. This will also have the engine set almost perfectly in time, only minor adjustments should be needed.

I can't find a great picture of what I'm talking about. This one kind of shows it, the dark spots around the edge of the distributor are the lines I'm talking about. On the real thing they are cut out of the metal slightly.


https://www.ebay.com/i/293378899105...tQxXWLX4uB2qj4_lgs9l0n3WY1QvdkBIaAsNdEALw_wcB

 

[mikie]

A little confused, #1 on the cap is #1 for the rotor, what other #1 mark are you using?
"the rotor is pointing at #1 cyl" <<do you mean rotor is pointed at front passenger side of engine, that's not an indicator for timing

You should pull up distributor and spin the rotor where it needs to be and then lower distributor back down
You can make a mark on distributors case for #1 with cap on, then when you remove cap you have an easy way to line up rotor to #1

Distributor may not go all the way back down, use a socket on crank and turn crank 90deg one way and then 90deg the other way and distributor should drop down all the way, then rotate back to 0deg TDC, you were lining up the oil pump drive
Snug distributor back up, but not tight, so rotor and cap #1 line up
Start engine to warm it up for 4 minutes or so, then shut it off and install timing light and unplug SPOUT to set base timing

Use the pointer, never the "eye", to set 10-12deg BTDC
If your engine has the "eye" it was for a Ford tool used to set timing, so not used with hand held timing light


Just an FYI, I think there is a difference in the vane inside distributor, when it gets to #1, so TFI and computer know when #1 is firing
Not sure it "matters" too much for Batch Fire injection, but it would with sequential fuel injection
It is a good idea to have the cap #1 mark used for #1 spark plug just for the next poor bastard that has to work on the engine, lol
i.e. you probably could move spark plug wires to match rotor position like on a carb engine, but why not just do it the right way since its not that much trouble to do so

Thanks, I picked up the "rotor pointing at #1 cyl" from one of my Ranger service manuals. Go figure? Yours and another post make more sense.

 

[mikie]

Thanks, I picked up the "rotor pointing at #1 cyl" from one of my Ranger service manuals. Go figure? Yours and another post make more sense.

 

[mikie]

Ok, the rotor will turn as the distributor goes in because of the helical cut of the gears.

There are two lines on the distributor face where the cap sits. Set the rotor so the leading (clockwise) edge of it is just at the line that is more to the counter-clockwise direction.

If you do this correctly when the distributor seats in completely the rotor should be sitting almost perfectly between the two lines. This will also have the engine set almost perfectly in time, only minor adjustments should be needed.

I can't find a great picture of what I'm talking about. This one kind of shows it, the dark spots around the edge of the distributor are the lines I'm talking about. On the real thing they are cut out of the metal slightly.


https://www.ebay.com/i/293378899105...tQxXWLX4uB2qj4_lgs9l0n3WY1QvdkBIaAsNdEALw_wcB

That makes a bit more sense, thanks.

 

[mikie]

That makes a bit more sense, thanks.