Computer on 83 Ranger?

[Ford Hoarder]

When looking for a 4X4 mini truck I didn't want one with a computer. I bought this Ranger so I could easily work on it as I'm an old school mechanic. Well to my surprise it does have an computer, a lot of emissions and vacuum crap. It's a 2.3, can I rip all this stuff of and it still run? Do I really need the computer? The air pump and EGR are already disconnected. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, this is my daily use truck.

 

[redhurricane]

Fuel injected or carb? If EFI, you are going to have a very tough time getting it to run without an ECU.

FWIW, even the EFI 2.3 NA engine are quite easy to work on.

 

[Ford Hoarder]

Carb on this 83

 

[Ford Hoarder]

I think the ECM has to do with emissions, I also want to get rid of the cat and O2 sensor.

 

[redhurricane]

What's the legal requirement in your state as far as using a vehicle that originally came with emissions to use it without on public roads?

 

[redhurricane]

this might be what you have, if so it's controlling spark as well.

FBC:
EEC-III[edit]

This system is used on certain 1981-83 models. There were two different EEC-III modules; Feedback Carburetor (FBC) and Central Fuel Injection (CFI - similar to GM's Throttle Body Injection). The module size and shape were approximately the same as the EEC-II and still utilized the external memory module. The two modules had differently keyed connectors to prevent accidental insertion in the wrong vehicle.

EEC-III uses a Dura-Spark III module (Brown grommet where wires emerge) and a Dura-Spark II ignition coil. A resistance wire is used in the primary circuit. The distributors in EEC-III (and later) systems eliminate conventional mechanical and vacuum advance mechanisms. All timing is controlled by the engine computer, which is capable of firing the spark plug at any point within a 50 degree range depending on calibration. This increased spark capability requires greater separation of adjacent distributor cap electrodes to prevent cross-fire, resulting is a large-diameter distributor cap.

 

[Ford Hoarder]

Don't drive it on the road, just my farm and in the woods occasionally, when they give me back my license then we will see

 

[Mike Tonon]

I had an 86 Ranger with the EFI 2.9l and started plucking whatever I thought I could off of it, including about half of the wires in the dash board. Then the thing ran, but very choppy.

 

[Brownie Mobile]

Do not disconnect those vacuum lines. Im not sure about the 2.3 but my 2.8 was stolen and the guy disconnected all the vac lines and the thing barely moves under its own power now (couldnt even do a 2 low burn out on wet moss)

 

[kimcrwbr1]

It has the three wire distributor then it has the MCU computer. You have the vacuum advance distributor you can get around the computer but it may run rich without the feedback system on the carb working and the computer will stop controlling the idle speed.

 

[cody93]

GM HEI conversion and a weber carb, not too hard and only needs like 3-4 wires to run (ign+, elec choke power, alternator)

 

[Ford Hoarder]

What GM HEI distributor do I need? Will it drop right in or do I need to modify something? Where can I get The Weber Carb?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If you have three wires and a vacuum advance the distributor is already in it. Get a four wire hei module and a heat sync to mount it on.

 

[batdog]

batdog

I took vacuum pump and most of the vacuum lines off. Has no cat or muffler just resonator. Short pipe out behind cab. Been running find for 5 years. Its two wheel drive with chains. I drag logs and haul firewood. It looks like s___ but does a fine job.

 

[Ford Hoarder]

I disconnected the air mixture solenoid on the carb yesterday, it seemed to run better. The carb has an idle screw and an air mixture screw so I'm thinkin' if I get these and the timing dialed in it should be fine. Let you know what I find out.