Compatible donor trannys for a 94 4.0 ranger

[Lukelore11]

I have a 94 ranger with a 4.0 and it won't go into overdrive. I have put a new torque converter in it as the local tranny place recommended and it did not help. I was thinking it may be an electrical problem. As of recently I came across a early 90s late 80s ranger with a bad motor for 50 bucks. I will go with a donor tranny if this will work. I am getting the year and engine type of tranny tomorrow and would like to know ahead of time what I'm looking for. Thanks!

 

[Lukelore11]

I am finding that any85-94 A4LD automatic transmission will work. Is this correct??? Thanks

 

[Lukelore11]

The donor is an 89 with either a 3.0 or 4.0 it's stripped down but a v6 for sure and auto tranny. Will this tranny work for me?? Thanks for any input

 

[Lukelore11]

I should also mention I swapped in a 4.0 from a 91 also. That was a direct and exact fit and is the current engine

 

[97RangerXLT]

The donor must have either a 2.9 or 4.0 for it to work with your 4.0. A 3.0 has a different bolt pattern on the bellhousing.

AJ

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 4 while sitting in my underwear

 

[RonD]

+1 ^^^

1994 computer will have A4LD control software so needs to be A4LD trans, this was the last year of the A4LD in Rangers
And bell housings have specific bolt patterns to match specific engines
3.0l Vulcan engine has unique bell housing pattern
2.3l Lima has unique bell housing pattern
2.9l and 4.0l used the same block so have same bell housing pattern, different from 3.0l and 2.3l.

4.0l A4LD had some heavier duty parts inside but A4LD from 2.9l will work fine.

And of course 2WD or 4WD matters, these have different tail shaft housings.

 

[Lukelore11]

It is a 2.9 4x4. So in she will go! Thanks for the help!

 

[RonD]

One heads up if this is your first automatic install

MAKE SURE you install torque converter on transmission correctly or you WILL break the main pump in the transmission.

Torque converter has slots and splines that must match up INSIDE the trans to engage the main(front) pump.

Put torque converter on to input shaft and slide it towards the trans, it will stop.
Now rotate the torque converter in either direction and push in on it while doing so.
You will feel it slide in more and a click, usually there will be 2 or 3 slide ins and clicks.

That is the torque converter locking in to the main pump and drive.

If for some reason the torque converter should slide forward during install, repeat process.

When bolting bell housing to engine the torque converter should not be in the way, bell housing should go on flush to engine and the torque converter should slide forward to be bolted to flexplate.

NEVER use bell housing bolts to force trans on to engine block, you will wreck the trans, full rebuild wreck.

I did break the main pump on my first automatic install, many others have as well, and it is an expensive lesson to learn, because you get everything back together and fire up the engine, then put it in gear........................nothing, no Reverse, no Drive no "gears", just nothing.

 

[Lukelore11]

Thanks Ron, it is my first and the torque converter did pop out, luckily, I knew what to do! After I dropped the old tranny, I found a fitting on the top that has a rubber hose on it. The threats on this fitting were stripped and it was sitting looses in its stripped out hole. Could this be the original problem of why it wouldn't go into overdrive in the first place? Thanks again

 

[RonD]

I think you are talking about the Vent fitting so no, wouldn't cause trans issues, that is a breather tube

Image here: http://s188.photobucket.com/user/Renegade_Ron/media/DSCF1256.jpg.html?t=1219893617
And here: http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/data/2/medium/16937tr1.jpg

Fitting is at the end of that looping tube near end of trans/start of tailhousing

 

[Lukelore11]

So here's my development:Bad news. Got the new tranny in and it does the exact same thing as the old one-no overdrive. This tells me it's something with the rest of the truck such as bad/not adjusted kickdown cable. Could this be true? Any other ideas are welcome and appreciated. Very frusturated:dunno thanks.

 

[RonD]

A4LD was used from 1985 to 1994 model years

From '87 or '88 and up, the A4LD transmissions had the computer controlling the 3/4 shift, OD shift, so no kickdown

On the passenger side of trans is a 3 wire plugin, 1 wire will have 12volts when key is on, this 12volts is shared inside the trans with the TCC(torque converter lock up) solenoid and the 3/4 shift solenoid.
Then the other 2 wires are Grounds, one for each solenoid, these wires go to the computer and computer Grounds each wire internally to activate or deactivate each solenoid.

You can use an OHM meter to make sure solenoids inside the transmission are still good.
And also a volt meter to make sure the 1 wire has 12 volts when key is on, could just be a blow fuse.

 

[Lukelore11]

The one pin does have11.8 volts. Not sure how to test the other two pins or the solenoids. I am forgetting to give some other info as well: speedo quit working progressively more and more as od went out untill both failed completely in the same way. The check oil light and check engine light comes and goes as they please. And overall the truck runs like crap. It's really doggy and gutless. Ran fine before all these other problems occurred. I also pulled the computer to see if there were any visible fried spots and I replaced 3 capacitors with no change to the trucks current operating condition. Maybe this will throw a light bulb up with other ideas and options for me to try. Thanks all who read, it is much appreciated.

 

[Lukelore11]

Just for sh*ts and giggles I put a new vehicle speed sensor in the rear end and in the tcase. Engine has much more power, runs smoother, and the speedo works again. However it still has a very fast idle about 1300 rpms warm and still no overdrive.

 

[firehawk618]

So here's my development:Bad news. Got the new tranny in and it does the exact same thing as the old one-no overdrive. This tells me it's something with the rest of the truck such as bad/not adjusted kickdown cable. Could this be true? Any other ideas are welcome and appreciated. Very frusturated:dunno thanks.

I hope you didn't pay that transmission shop anything? Replace torque converter because your OD isn't working? I'd never step foot in that place again.

There's not much to the OD system electronically in these rigs.

Do you have schematics?

Do you know how to read them?

Do you know how to use a volt / ohm meter?

I would start there.

If you want some pointers let me know.