Cold start trouble 2.8l v6 manual

[orange1983ranger]

Hey everyone. Hope all is going well. I recently replaced one of the heads in the truck and all the other stuff that goes with that and noticed I had a fuel leak at the accelerator pump in the carburetor. I got the carb kit and 2 cans of cleaner and gave everything to a friend who has rebuilt these carbs before(ex-drag car mechanic). It's the stock motorcraft that it came with. Anyway, put it back on and he adjusted the timing and on the carb, adjusted the choke and the two screws at the bottom front of the body of the carburetor. when It starts from cold and even after driving a bit I have to mess with the gas pedal and restart it several times, but after driving for a while it runs and starts great(as good as it will anyway). Any ideas on fixing the cold start issue? It's a real pain in the ass right now and it's pissing people off from all the noise.

 

[Redneck_Ranger]

Fuel pump engaging when you go to start it?

 

[orange1983ranger]

Sure does. It's a manual pump attached to the block

 

[Andy D]

make sure the fast idle stuff is working smoothly. Then I would tighten the choke spring. If it is equipped with a choke stove , make sure it is intact. This is generic advice, I had to deal with Motorcraft 2150 2 barrels on my Grand wagoneers. Even the best one would fire right up and die. It would re-start easily and idle ok. It was a good little carburetor, but I much prefer EFI

 

[orange1983ranger]

This may seem a bit odd, but I don't know which way to rotate the clutch housing to tighten or loosen it or if that has anything to do with the spring, and if the fast idle stuff is the idle speed screw. I'm sure it's just minor adjusting I need to do, I just don't know what to try first. Thanks for the general info Andy D, I would be curious for any other help too. Oh, and when the truck will maintain idle it speeds up and slows down, like a wave pattern. I was told that is really common in these old engines but I figured I'd throw it in there for suggestions.

 

[orange1983ranger]

I grew up in Marshvegas. I just noticed you live there Andy D.

 

[wildbill23c]

I have the same issue with my 84 Bronco 2, no carb rebuild or cleaning has been done yet, so obviously that wouldn't fix the problem LOL. My issue is the PO jerry rigged about every thing on the engine they could, when I got it even the alternator was hooked up wrong. Now I'm slowly putting stuff back the way its supposed to be and I'm left with the carburetor issue, which I'm leaning towards a manual choke cable setup as that will surely fix the automatic choke jerry rig disaster. I'll try to get a picture of the jerry rigging on it just for laughs. Some people shouldn't be allowed to open the hoods of cars.

On another note, these carburetors seem pretty temperamental to begin with, so I wouldn't expect any spectacular results from a rebuild kit and cleaning, the TFI ignition system is really part of the problem from what I've gathered. I plan on eventually doing the Duraspark conversion so I can turn the computer into a paperweight, you may want to goto the tech section and read over the duraspark conversion option it may help solve your problem in the long run.

I know this summer when I initially test drove the Bronco 2 it ran awesome, now its winter so the choke issues will be an inevitable issue until spring.

 

[orange1983ranger]

Well that sounds like a bum deal with the jerry rigging. I am considering the duraspark conversion and will check out the tech section. I just went to start it and found the battery drained. Now I have to figure out what caused that AND deal with the carburetor crap. Sheesh, I think I need a new truck. or a better way to get this one working with less hassles.

 

[wildbill23c]

Your best bet is do look into the duraspark conversion, it will do away with the feedback computer on the carburetor and it also replaces the carburetor as well. My issue is finding donor vehicles to get parts to convert mine, so for now I'm just dealing with it, fixed the major part of it this morning I took that copper wire off and slipped it under that bar it was looped around and that opened up the choke plate, so it now idles after a few minutes. What I've done for now is I start it up let it run at a fast idle for a few seconds with my foot on the accelerator and then I just drive away, it warms up within a mile or so of driving enough that it will then idle on its own just fine. The heck with that electric choke mess LOL.

 

[Brownie Mobile]

I sat there for a good hour when i rebuilt my carb trying to figure the best way this choke needs to be set up, just take it all off set it on your desk and think and eventually it will come to you it literally takes me 1 second of cranking in this cold weather to start her up i attribute it to 2 things 1. My truck runs really rich and gets about 8mpg 2. I set that choke RIGHT!
Edit: I was just reading over my post and i realized this is probaly the only thing ive ever done right on my B2...... awesome.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Hey everyone. Hope all is going well. I recently replaced one of the heads in the truck and all the other stuff that goes with that and noticed I had a fuel leak at the accelerator pump in the carburetor. I got the carb kit and 2 cans of cleaner and gave everything to a friend who has rebuilt these carbs before(ex-drag car mechanic). It's the stock motorcraft that it came with. Anyway, put it back on and he adjusted the timing and on the carb, adjusted the choke and the two screws at the bottom front of the body of the carburetor. when It starts from cold and even after driving a bit I have to mess with the gas pedal and restart it several times, but after driving for a while it runs and starts great(as good as it will anyway). Any ideas on fixing the cold start issue? It's a real pain in the ass right now and it's pissing people off from all the noise.

This brings back fond memories of seeing how far a ranger could fly off a 300 ft cliff. What I did
valve guide seals
block off EGR
duraspark conversion
motorcraft 2150 1.08 venturi and #43 jets
plugs wires, cap adaptor, cap and rotor, autolite single platinum plugs
PCV with spark plugs
it has been over a year since the last tuneup and recently disabled the electric choke. I can start it up and shift into gear and go every time and runs like a raped ape. If it is below 36 degrees it has to warm up about two minutes before shifting into gear. If you dont have to pass smog dump the computer if it needs to pass smog go with a gen II it is probable you will never get it to pass.

 

[wildbill23c]

My 84 B2 idles rough as hell even with the choke plate held completely open. I'm wondering if there could be a timing issue, although once you start moving it runs awesome, but it will start bucking when you are just driving around town at 20-30mph. For the life of me I can't pinpoint the cause.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Have you checked the EGR. To check if it works at an idle apply vacuum pressure to the egr and the engine should stall. Did you replace the PCV valve and check all your vacuum lines are correct and clear sounds vacuum related to me.

 

[wildbill23c]

If I could figure out the whole mess of plugged vacuum lines, connected vacuum lines, etc. I would probably be able to pinpoint the problem. This thing is a disaster. It even had A/C in it at some point that the PO literally I think just cut it out.

I'm going to look next time the weather is better and go through some of the vacuum line mess to narrow things down. I haven't checked or replaced the EGR Valve or the PCV Valve yet. Waiting to get caught back up on bills from a recent job change so it will be a few weeks before I can start replacing parts again. Grr...I hate having a project I want to dig into so bad but the wallet isn't cooperating at all.

Today I took it out on a decently long drive about 15 miles, it was still idling really rough and bucking like usual. If it was a timing issue wouldn't that have signs through all different speeds? This is only happening at around 20-30mph after that it runs smooth as hell.

Thanks for the input. I'll be checking things over when I get a chance and I'll report back my findings, but from that picture you can kind of get the idea the whole mess I'm dealing with. For 28 years old and the previous owner's neglect and screwing around its survived pretty well considering.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/1983vacuumhoseguide.jpg You should have a diagram like this on the top of the radiator support bulkhead. You can get repair parts to fix broken lines I just used the tube with a can of wd to blow the lines out and follow that with air to open everything up make sure the vacuum reservor is working good it looks like a coffee can. Disconnect the battery while you clean all the electrical connectors and get the vacuum lines in order then see if it throws any codes. Run it about 20 minutes and when it is hot do a KOER and write down all the codes it shows you. You can use a test light or analog VOM to pull the codes thay may show where you need to go.