Cold start trouble 2.8l v6 manual

[wildbill23c]

Bypassing the EGR valve fixed my idle issue right away. I ended up just tying the choke plate open on my B2, kind of hard to start when its exremely cold but found that I can get it to idle on its own my slightly holding pressure on the accelerator for about a minute after starting.

I was also having issues with the feedback computer cutting timing (retarding timing), there's a relay by the computer on the passenger side that was cutting in and out, I removed the relay and now it runs awesome. Relay will continue to sit on my desk until I see a reason for having it.

 

[Doctormario777]

If I could figure out the whole mess of plugged vacuum lines, connected vacuum lines, etc. I would probably be able to pinpoint the problem. This thing is a disaster. It even had A/C in it at some point that the PO literally I think just cut it out.

I'm going to look next time the weather is better and go through some of the vacuum line mess to narrow things down. I haven't checked or replaced the EGR Valve or the PCV Valve yet. Waiting to get caught back up on bills from a recent job change so it will be a few weeks before I can start replacing parts again. Grr...I hate having a project I want to dig into so bad but the wallet isn't cooperating at all.

Today I took it out on a decently long drive about 15 miles, it was still idling really rough and bucking like usual. If it was a timing issue wouldn't that have signs through all different speeds? This is only happening at around 20-30mph after that it runs smooth as hell.

Thanks for the input. I'll be checking things over when I get a chance and I'll report back my findings, but from that picture you can kind of get the idea the whole mess I'm dealing with. For 28 years old and the previous owner's neglect and screwing around its survived pretty well considering.

I'm having the same bucking issue with my 83 ranger... have you made any headway towards figuring it out?

 

[wildbill23c]

I'm having the same bucking issue with my 83 ranger... have you made any headway towards figuring it out?

Well after I took the relay out that's down by the computer on the passenger side fender well, and after I unhooked the vacuum line going to the EGR valve, and also bypassing the choke by tying the choke plate open my idle/operating problems have gone away, the engine idles smooth, getting better fuel economy, and I'm not having surging problems anymore either that made the truck feel like it was bucking or trying to run away with itself going down the road, or sometimes acting like the timing was being retarded, which had something to do with the relay that I removed. After doing all that I can say it runs 100% better now. Another thing I had to do was completely adjust the 2 front screws on the carburetor base, they were so far out of adjustment it wouldn't even idle right because of that. My issue currently is it has been the shop for over a month having one problem after another fixed, so I haven't seen my B2 for over a month now. Its a bit hard to start when really cold since I tied the choke open, but other than that it is completely driveable now. Before doing all the above I had driven it about 80 miles round trip, which destroyed the front seal of the oil pan thus leaving me with a stream of oil dripping anytime it was running. However, on that trip after everything was fixed, I felt like it would just drive forever without any other problems. Well that was up until I had the horrible knocking sound which I thought was a rod about to break free, fixed that which turned out to be the flywheel bolts were about to come out due to them all being stripped out. Then that was fixed, then the Clutch Master Cylinder failed while it was still at the shop, so that's been my latest issue. Other than that the shop says its still running pretty well, they did adjust the carburetor for me for the warmer weather.

Anyhow, I'd do everything I listed above, and do a tune-up if you haven't done so already.

 

[Doctormario777]

Well after I took the relay out that's down by the computer on the passenger side fender well, and after I unhooked the vacuum line going to the EGR valve, and also bypassing the choke by tying the choke plate open my idle/operating problems have gone away, the engine idles smooth, getting better fuel economy, and I'm not having surging problems anymore either that made the truck feel like it was bucking or trying to run away with itself going down the road, or sometimes acting like the timing was being retarded, which had something to do with the relay that I removed. After doing all that I can say it runs 100% better now. Another thing I had to do was completely adjust the 2 front screws on the carburetor base, they were so far out of adjustment it wouldn't even idle right because of that. My issue currently is it has been the shop for over a month having one problem after another fixed, so I haven't seen my B2 for over a month now. Its a bit hard to start when really cold since I tied the choke open, but other than that it is completely driveable now. Before doing all the above I had driven it about 80 miles round trip, which destroyed the front seal of the oil pan thus leaving me with a stream of oil dripping anytime it was running. However, on that trip after everything was fixed, I felt like it would just drive forever without any other problems. Well that was up until I had the horrible knocking sound which I thought was a rod about to break free, fixed that which turned out to be the flywheel bolts were about to come out due to them all being stripped out. Then that was fixed, then the Clutch Master Cylinder failed while it was still at the shop, so that's been my latest issue. Other than that the shop says its still running pretty well, they did adjust the carburetor for me for the warmer weather.

Anyhow, I'd do everything I listed above, and do a tune-up if you haven't done so already.

Wound up doing a tune up already. I too have an oil leak, but mine was from the top/rear of the engine. I took the intake/dizzy/valve covers off. Working on getting that all cleaned up and put back together, hopefully stopping the leak, then I'll get back to work on the bucking/starting issue.

The trouble I had with mine before I took it apart was that it would only start if I put the gas pedal to the floor. That, in and of itself, wasn't a big deal to me, but the bucking was.

I'm sure my idle mixture screws are waaaay too far out, but unfortunately it dies unless I've got them set about 3.5 to 4 turns out.

 

[wildbill23c]

Wound up doing a tune up already. I too have an oil leak, but mine was from the top/rear of the engine. I took the intake/dizzy/valve covers off. Working on getting that all cleaned up and put back together, hopefully stopping the leak, then I'll get back to work on the bucking/starting issue.

The trouble I had with mine before I took it apart was that it would only start if I put the gas pedal to the floor. That, in and of itself, wasn't a big deal to me, but the bucking was.

I'm sure my idle mixture screws are waaaay too far out, but unfortunately it dies unless I've got them set about 3.5 to 4 turns out.

Get your tune-up, and your oil leaks figured out, then adjust your carburetor. Yep, its going to die until you get it dialed in. I think with 3 turns out initially on mine it would die, I would start it and run around the truck to keep the thing running and would slowly adjust the 2 mixture screws in front, something I had to do was replace the springs as the screws kept adjusting themselves as the springs were so worn out they weren't keeping pressure on the screws to keep them from vibrating all over the place. I don't have a working choke, and that don't stop me from driving the truck I start it let it warm up a minute or so, then I can walk away and let it idle.

 

[Bill]

I had the same issue when I had a Ford Pinto with the same engine, but it looks like you have figured it out. Too rich or lean (choke adjustment) or EGR. In my case the EGR was stuck open making it too lean at idle AND getting the choke way out of adjustment because I thought the choke was the problem.

 

[wildbill23c]

I had the same issue when I had a Ford Pinto with the same engine, but it looks like you have figured it out. Too rich or lean (choke adjustment) or EGR. In my case the EGR was stuck open making it too lean at idle AND getting the choke way out of adjustment because I thought the choke was the problem.

That stupid EGR valve on mine really had me stumped until I ran across a thread on here about a similar problem and thought why not try disconnecting the vacuum line, hell as soon as I pulled the vacuum line off it immediately started idling just as smooth as could be, I just put an old screw in the end of the vacuum line seems to be working great or well it was 2 months ago before all my knocking trouble started.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Wound up doing a tune up already. I too have an oil leak, but mine was from the top/rear of the engine. I took the intake/dizzy/valve covers off. Working on getting that all cleaned up and put back together, hopefully stopping the leak, then I'll get back to work on the bucking/starting issue.

The trouble I had with mine before I took it apart was that it would only start if I put the gas pedal to the floor. That, in and of itself, wasn't a big deal to me, but the bucking was.

I'm sure my idle mixture screws are waaaay too far out, but unfortunately it dies unless I've got them set about 3.5 to 4 turns out.

If your running a computer disconnect the idle control motor in front of the carb and set the idle mix needles for the highest rpm or vacuum pressure and then plug the idle motor back in and it should idle down. Its the same adjustment with the non feedback carb you just need to set the idle stop screw on the side of the carb. I use the 3 1/2 turns out for the pre adjustment and final the adjustment with a vacuum guage. achieve the highest rpm or vacuum pressure and slowly turn it back in until it just begins to move the needle down. Or the highest lean vacuum or rpm. I found smaller jets will give you alot more HP on the upper end I`m running #43 jets gonna get some #41s here soon and see it it improve HP and more important gas mileage.