Cold Idle/Warm Idle

[holyford86]

if you are setting the TPS voltage correctly @ .86-.9 volts then the problem is elsewhere, the screw on the side of the throttle body is for adjusting the TPS baseline, if it isn't in the right range then the engine is going to run like crap. You could try cleaning/ replacing the IAC which might help your idle issue. Pull codes with the instructions in the tech library, and tell us what you get. Throwing parts at the problem probably won't fix it.

 

[nooberiffic]

the IAC is new. Will attempt code pulls. have only had one check engine light since I reset the battery, not sure if that cleared the codes or not.


CEL flashed 3 times, one right after the other. No flash after this for 20 seconds. Did this twice

Is this because there is no CEL problem currently. Is there a way to pull past codes for CEL coming on?

 

[nooberiffic]

read another post and it said to do the key on engine running first, so I started again.
I got a 42774277, with roughly the same interval between sets, there was no different break between "42" and "77" as there was between "4" and "2"

From what I have read "77" means I didnt do the "goose" test, im not sure what that is, but I think it has something to do with hitting the throttle.\

okay. some crazy shiz happened. I checked the leads on the back of the IAC. turned the engine on. ran crappy. switched them. ran crappy. Switched them back. engine idled up the 1600 RPM for 15 seconds, down to 1200 for 5, back to 1600 for 10, then down to 900 and idled a bit rough but stayed there. I guess I had the wires on the right way, but obviously not on all the way or something. Is this proper idle activity now?

Then I ran the key on engine on test, and goosed it when supposed too.
codes thrown were 42 72 73 42 72 73 and then nothing.

Since my IAC seemed to be working I decided to re-adjust my TPS. I adjusted it to .89 and started the vehicle. It sat at 500RPM for a second or two then shot up to 1500 for 15 seconds, 900 for 2 back to 1500 for 10 and then idled rought at 850.
So I take it my IAC is working now, and my TPS is adjusted.




I attempted to do the key on engine on test again. This is still with me thinking that for the goose test all you do is hit the throttle (i did it to 4500 RPM). When i do this after I let of the gas, the rps drop to almost nothing and the engine dies. After the engine dies it throws codes 42 72 73 and repeats those codes. I then find on a taurus SHO forum that the goose test is turning wheel both ways, hitting the brake, then hitting the gas pedal. I will re-run and see what happens.

reran test. engine almost died after the throttle part of the "goose." I had to feather the throttle slightly to keep it from dying. Codes thrown after this were 42 and 72.

42 = "R) System rich - Fuel control"
72 = "R) No MAP or MAF change in "goose" test - retest, check for frequency or voltage change - MAP MAF"

I have recently replaced my fuel filter, FPR, and MAP sensor.

what is my next move? where do you check for voltage change and when?

 

[nooberiffic]

nothing?

 

[holyford86]

test your MAP sensor, or swap it for one that is known to be good, make sure that the vacuum line from the intake to the MAP sensor is good. it is possible that your rich code may be as a direct result of the MAP code.