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Coil or leaf spring for a SAS on a 99 2WD?


That is such a simple trans man. Don't even worry about that. Just be really careful and pay attention to where every part come from.

The worst part of taking it apart and putting it together is getting the input and output shafts back in the case and mated. It's a tight fit.
 
About the only thing difficult would be the removal of the large mainshaft nut at the end. As long as you keep every part layed out in order they were removed it will be easy. Also access to a hydraulic press will make it quicker.
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Can i cut the 4wd shaft, and sleeve the 2wd one to extend it using the 4wd piece?

Also, what can i do to fix the steering box i posted a few posts back?
 
No, I don't think so.

If you have some proper hand tools it can be done. If you buy the 4wd mainshaft a housing, I can help you through the rebuild. Done it a couple times now.

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spline count is different iirc but its doable regardless. 25 for 4x4 and 28 for 2wd iirc.



i would not use the ranger box as first choice though its easy to weld in a ttb section of frame to easily utilize it. since your a 4cyl you have room to spare so not a big deal..

an outside frame setup from a toy or older ford or nissan or whatever you can get down there would make it a bit simpler....even a regular wrangler setup may be easier to adapt if you want to go inside rail.

the older ford units are getting tough to get though up here. it could be worse there or much better...:dunno:


leafs are easier to me, but still tricky to get the rates right and rake set on the first shot. front waggy springs seem to work well with little trucks like yours.
 
My cousin has a 86-88 ranger box, we plan on using that one. If we fix the return line issue.
actually its a bit easier cheapier to get a ranger box than a japanese one.
a friend just installed an older blazer one to his jeep. way cheapier than gettin a toyota one.

leafs will be the way. i have a set tracked down. front chevy ones, older chevy like 70's.
if not i was thinking about rear Ranger leafs, or ill hunt some wagoneer ones.

In case i dont wanna open up the trans, can i do the sleeve and extend idea? my cousin said he saw it done once, and the truck still drives without an issue.
 
using a trailduster/dodge plate cradle its pretty easy to use a 2wd chevy box.


i used one on my truck before i went to the huge radiator when i swapped the diesel in.

the big sas ford box is ridiculously easy to use though:dunno: its why i usually suggest that type.

but if you are set on using the ranger type, it should be pretty easy to install the frame inner section from a ttb chassis out of a salvage yard.




get the lightest duty 2 in lift front chevy springs you can find, or some waggy stuff. you may get away with stock fronts with the chevies but you need to be real smart on setting up the shackles with them carefully.



if i remember this right, the 2wd output-shaft is longer then the 4x4, so its not a good thing to try and adapt in this case as the splines on the 2wd may not be deep enough. simply modding the slip from a 28 spline to hold a section of 25 would be doable just not practical....best bet is to get a 4x4 trans and t case together.

you can use a 2wd v8 trans cut down to do this, seen that a few times. add 4x4 housing and fit 28/25 spl spud adapter to run stock rbv case behind 2wd aod or c6 trans. not ideal but possible. so in this case all you would use is the 28/25 spl spud, not sure if the splines are deep enough to allow that though with a 2wd rbv trans. need to measure them and see. i dont see advanced selling that spud for less then 250 bux though. the kit is like 600 bones...
 
using a trailduster/dodge plate cradle its pretty easy to use a 2wd chevy box.


i used one on my truck before i went to the huge radiator when i swapped the diesel in.

the big sas ford box is ridiculously easy to use though:dunno: its why i usually suggest that type.

but if you are set on using the ranger type, it should be pretty easy to install the frame inner section from a ttb chassis out of a salvage yard.




get the lightest duty 2 in lift front chevy springs you can find, or some waggy stuff. you may get away with stock fronts with the chevies but you need to be real smart on setting up the shackles with them carefully.



if i remember this right, the 2wd output-shaft is longer then the 4x4, so its not a good thing to try and adapt in this case as the splines on the 2wd may not be deep enough. simply modding the slip from a 28 spline to hold a section of 25 would be doable just not practical....best bet is to get a 4x4 trans and t case together.

you can use a 2wd v8 trans cut down to do this, seen that a few times. add 4x4 housing and fit 28/25 spl spud adapter to run stock rbv case behind 2wd aod or c6 trans. not ideal but possible. so in this case all you would use is the 28/25 spl spud, not sure if the splines are deep enough to allow that though with a 2wd rbv trans. need to measure them and see. i dont see advanced selling that spud for less then 250 bux though. the kit is like 600 bones...

Ill take into consideration the leaf suggestions.

If we run into too much issues wiht the Ranger box, we will start looking for something else.
he has an old ranger frame too, so we could cut the steering box mount from it.

i was thinking about the sleeving idea to avoid taking my trans apart to install the 4wd shaft on it, but it seems to be the best way.

seems like i could get a 4 banger 4wd trans, but its older than mine(90-92 2.3) and deff beat up, so id like to keep my trans and just use the shaft and tailhousing, with t case of course, a mechanic one.

If not ill buy a v6 one and do the same operation. even if that means to go electric t case, i could live with that.
If my cousin has built a lot of engines, and i believe a couple transmissions, i dont really see why he couldnt put back together the ranger trans.

BTW, my sas parts fund goal is 263 USD.
my current saving is : 97 USD.
not bad for 2 weeks :D
 
considering i have a 410 d30 sitting out back and a manual 1350 t case in the garage, i could easily do this for 250 bux here.

getting me to buy a 2wd 4 cyl ranger on the other hand...and leave it with a 4cyl gas engine in it.......not happening..:D
 
don't be scared of the electric t/case... mine has never let me down.
worst case-- you have to crawl under it and shift it into the position you want.
 
I divided this in 4 stages
Stage 1 :gettin the axle and front susp parts
Stage 2: install and tune.
Stage 3: get the transmission parts
Stage 4: install and tune

with 260 USD i can cover stages 1 and 2.
In order to achieve stage 3 im planning on more savings, and selling the IFs stuff ill take off.
If i can have the axle installed and fully driveable by christmas ill be more than happy.
transmission will come in the first half of next year.
 
SAS update:
I went to check the D30 today. The guy still doesn't know what gearing it has, i coulnd't see it because he has it somewhere else, and now hes telling me that for the price he can't include the brakes.
Soo i went to another place. For 316USD, hes giving me a HP D30, with 4.10 gears, full brakes and selectable air locker.
Needless to say, ill save more so i can get that one.
SAS axle goal: 316
SAS axle current saving: 184
 
Selectable air locker? Damn. You now need to get a locker for the rear axle now too. You should also start thinking about how you're going to run that locker. Maybe use your air conditioning compressor?
 
Yeah, ill go check it friday.
Having a locker is a badass feature, but it wont allow me to hit the stock categories on the local 4WD championship tho.
Maybe when i have the 4Wd done ill start thinking about a rear locker. in a cvouple years i can see it having a rear locker.
And im thinking about gettin a small 12V compressor for it, that way ill keep the AC working.
 
OK, i might make a deal to get a 4WD m5od tailhousing and mainshaft
So i wanna know, and be 100% sure its all i need to make my transmission 4wd.
or do i need more parts?
i know ill need the t case, but i wanna know if i need something else, besides those 2 parts right now.
 

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