clutch wont bleed properly

[95worktruck]

I have a 95 ranger 2.3 2wd and I'm having problems getting my clutch to bleed correctly. No matter what I do I get almost no pressure and the clutch will not disengage. Need help have to get to work tomorrow!

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Did the master cyl run low on fluid? How old is the clutch? The best way is to bench bleed the master and line and then gravity bleed the slave. You need to determine is it is air or a worn clutch. It can be a biotch bleedin bubbles out of the master and line. GL

 

[black_demon69]

1 disconnect master from pedal leaving rod attached to master
2 take master off of firewall and flip so the end that normally sits lower is higher then rod end and hose from reservoir is toward the sky
3 get assistant and have them actuate the rod in and out slowly until no more air is bubbling in reservoir
4 reinstall master and attach to pedal
5 open bleeder on slave and have assistant push pedal down and hold
6 close bleeder while pedal is down release pedal once bleeder is closed
7 check fluid level and repeat steps 5 and 6 until pedal is firm and slave is working (about 4 to 5 more times)

hint: it helped me to slightly elevate the back end of the truck (or at least make sure truck is on a level surface)


this is what worked for me mileage may vary......

 

[95worktruck]

Thanks I will try that in the morning and no just replaced it then went to bleed it and had this problem.

 

[rangeron33s]

He just replaced the clutch and now the slave wont bleed rite. I suggested he gets on here because its the best place he can find help :thumbup:

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[Sasquatch_Ryda]

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109088

 

[adsm08]

Take the hose and master out, plug them in under the truck, bleed it, disconnect it again, put it all back together.

 

[Andy D]

Yah, taking out the clutch MC to bleed it is a bogus process. Especially when the frozen bolts holding it in ripped the welds off the nuts. The new one is held in with 1/4 20 hardware. What has to be done to bleed a Ford is laid out in the directions that came with every piece of the new parts I replaced. It worked the first time, I did it. I can't be too smug, however. I didn't grasp the RTFM rule until fairly late in the game.

 

[95worktruck]

Thanks for all the help guys. I tried bench bleeding and it didnt work so I pulled out the tranny again. Turns out is was a bad slave causing all of this. Im working on getting it completely bleed and will let you know how it goes

 

[adsm08]

Yah, taking out the clutch MC to bleed it is a bogus process.

I have tried it 100 different ways. That is still my favorite.

FWIW I too have hardware store parts holding my MC to the firewall.

 

[Mark_88]

FWIW I too have hardware store parts holding my MC to the firewall.

I had a bicycle wrench cut down to fit one of the bolts to hold mine in...worked pretty good for about six months...I laughed when I was ripping it apart to scrap it and saw the wrench still doing its job...

Anyway...a bad slave is not a good thing to discover after installing the transmission...but it sounds like the OP is on top of this one...

 

[Andy D]

I don't agree with making something that has a short lifetime be so hard to replace. Ford only gets worse with this as time goes on. OTOH, I must agree with the replace everything when you have the transmission out concept. The result is a very smooth clutch action I just don't like having to do it

 

[95worktruck]

Alright so everything is good now it was a bad slave cylinder that wasnt allowing the clutch to bleed correctly. Everything is put back together and the truck is on the road again. Ready for that haul rangeron33s?

 

[rangeron33s]

Hah hell I havnt looked at this in a while. Its done done!

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[snake]

Never, never, never use rebuilt hydraulic parts. New ones are not much more. I've gotten a bad new one once, but that is really rare... got a few bad rebuilts before I quit using them about 20 years ago...