Clutch slave quick DC different versions?

[ChrisHelvey]

I have a '94 B-4000 and replaced the slave with a pre filled Sachs that was listed clearly for my model. I had no trouble removing the quick disconnect. The tranny is now in place. I put on the new O ring on and the connector will not click into place. How much pressure does it take to go in? It seems like it bottoms out and fluid comes out.
I ran out of curse words for this damn thing. Spent more time on the "quick disconnect" than installing the tranny.

Any tricks? They look the same, but are there different versions?
Can I get just a new hose with the proper quick disconnect or would I have to buy the whole master cylinder?

I'd really rather not deal with bleeding a new master cylinder just because the fitting is cursed. I'd like to get my hands on the designer of this and....waste some of his time. Quick disconnect my *ss.....

Any advice?

 

[trailbikerider]

I have the same feelings towards that fitting as you do. Except I had a hell of a time getting it to disconnect. But it should just snap right back in. As far as I know there's only one style of that fitting.

 

[DBD]

no, I have in my possession 2 different sizes of that very fitting. the diameter of the end is different. I am guessing you have the small male fitting and large female (on the slave). When you push the connector together, it opens the plunger in the male end, letting the fluid out, but it's too small on the OD so it doesn't click in.

I had the reverse problem, but in either case, you need either a new slave to match your current hose, or a new hose to match your current slave. So basically, get a new hose, unless you prefer shoving a transmission in and out.

The bigger Diameter stuff was out of a 93 supercab 4x4 that was running a newer M5od HD tranny, the smaller diameter pieces were in stock for my 89 BII.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The line should come off the master with a roll pin punch.

Richard

 

[DBD]

The line should come off the master with a roll pin punch.

Richard

What I did was grind down the threads off the last bit of a construction screw, and then clamped with a pair of channel lock pliers against it (obviously the lower jaw has to be away from the pin's hole) Squeeze with the pliers to get it back in too. I was able to do this process with all parts still in the truck, nothing removed for better access.

 

[AllanD]

if you are connecting the line to a "pre-filled slave" AFTER you hav e the transmission all cinched down against the engine the fluid in the slave is applying pressure against the pressure plate fingers.

So you are trying to connect the coupler to a PRESSURIZED slave cylinder.

This os possible to do, but not with "hand pressure"

I managed to pull it off by using a pair of pliers to squeeze the two halves of the coupler together.