clutch slave cylinder question

[richard99]

1995 4x4, 3.0...

Just replaced the trans and slave cylinder. I'm in the process of bleeding it now. I've read all the posts, and they're right. This process is a b***h. Does anyone know if there is a SURE FIRE way to bleed the bugger right, first time? I've got a steady stream of fluid coming out of the bleeder valve, but the clutch is still just engaging right near the floor.

One more, please: if the clutch is disengaging correctly, should I be able to grab the output shaft and rotate it?

Exasperated in Maine.

 

[MagnaV30]

I had a bastard of a time bleeding mine when i changed the slave. What i recommend is pumping several times, holding, and then having your assistant crack the valve. Close, repeat.
I also had a steady stream with single pump method, but low engagement.

 

[Hahnsb2]

I hook up a 2oz syringe as the reservoir and force brake fluid down with the bleeder open and close the bleeder, seems to work the first time almost every time.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

the problem usually isnt the slave, its the master. when its bolted to the firewall, its on an incline, which traps a bubble of air at the top of the m/c. unbolt it, turn it upside down (clutch line at the top) and bleed it that way.

FYI, the first time i did the clutch on my truck, the master wouldnt bleed out. i finally removed it from the truck to discover that the piston was completely worn out and its seals were missing. it was working fine before i tore into the clutch, but it was just too sloppy to be able to bleed itself. so if your m/c is the original, you might need to replace it as well.