clutch problems

[kenwheeler]

I replaced the trans, hooked everything up and while the truck was still raised on the jackstands went through the gears, once. Now the truck won't go into gear and the clutch pedal feels spongy like its not pushing the throwout onto the pressure plate fingers. I raised the drivers side up, unbolted the master cylinder and raised it as high as possible. I ran 2 bottles of brake fluid through this thing with no change.

How hard should the clutch pedal be?

Do clutch pedal pistons go bad?

Whats should I be looking at with regard to the hydralic clutch, reference bad or good. I mean can you look at it and tell its bad?

Should the big spring that holds the throwout bearing be colapsed or extended before I bolt up the tranny?

If I do have to drop the trans, 3rd time in 2 months, to replace the hydralic clutch can I go with the newer "Quick Disconnect" model? The FM145 has the fluid line held in with a cotter key. I wouldn't mind replacing the whole clutch system if I was able to use the quick disconnect line instead of fumbling with the cotter key.

 

[disciplerocks]

Since you already replaced everything else, I would go ahead and replace the slave cylinder. That would be the "piston" you are talking about.

Are you sure you got all the air out of the lines?

 

[kenwheeler]

I'm not real sure that I did get all the air out. I opened the bleeder but I'm not sure if it worked. I thought it would be a steady flow but it didn't seem that way. The piston I was refering to was the clutch pedal piston. Can I replace my FM145 cotter key slave with the newer "Quick Disconnect" version?

 

[disciplerocks]

I'm not familiar with that. Hopefully someone else will chime in.

 

[Spowerback]

if you bleed 3 times and tap out your line amount to the master your system should not he have problem generally
it must be good I think he has a small adapter for master